Th400 RMVB Questions
Th400 RMVB Questions Ok I have a couple things I need to get straight:
1. With a Reverse manual valvebody, do I have to wire up the transbrake to even get into reverse? or can I leave it disconnected for the time being?
2. Downshifting: can I downshift the car at a low speed at all?
3. What all is involved in swapping out the rmvb to a forward manual setup? Is it as simple as just unbolting the valvebody and putting the new one in?
1. With a Reverse manual valvebody, do I have to wire up the transbrake to even get into reverse? or can I leave it disconnected for the time being?
2. Downshifting: can I downshift the car at a low speed at all?
3. What all is involved in swapping out the rmvb to a forward manual setup? Is it as simple as just unbolting the valvebody and putting the new one in?
Originally Posted by xssive
Ok I have a couple things I need to get straight:
1. With a Reverse manual valvebody, do I have to wire up the transbrake to even get into reverse? or can I leave it disconnected for the time being?
1. With a Reverse manual valvebody, do I have to wire up the transbrake to even get into reverse? or can I leave it disconnected for the time being?
2. Downshifting: can I downshift the car at a low speed at all?
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Originally Posted by xssive
Ok I have a couple things I need to get straight:
1. With a Reverse manual valvebody, do I have to wire up the transbrake to even get into reverse? or can I leave it disconnected for the time being?
1. With a Reverse manual valvebody, do I have to wire up the transbrake to even get into reverse? or can I leave it disconnected for the time being?
Originally Posted by xssive
2. Downshifting: can I downshift the car at a low speed at all?
Originally Posted by xssive
3. What all is involved in swapping out the rmvb to a forward manual setup? Is it as simple as just unbolting the valvebody and putting the new one in?
Good luck.
Well what worries me is the fact that I just got done reading a thread on here stating the reverse manuals are for drag racing exclusively. It was clearly stated by most people that responded that you are NOT to downshift at any speed, and if you did, you should cause the shell to explode....
Is that all just a bunch or bs?
I want to be able to have fun driving the car...not that im going to downshift all the time, just that I want to be able to when I feel like it.
Is that all just a bunch or bs?
I want to be able to have fun driving the car...not that im going to downshift all the time, just that I want to be able to when I feel like it.
Watching your video brings up an other point. I am talking about downshifting with the intent to get on it, not to engine brake.
Do you lift off to shift at all, or do you keep the pedal mashed and shift?
Do you lift off to shift at all, or do you keep the pedal mashed and shift?
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
I shifted that time with the medal at part throttle and transitioned to full throttle after it was in. I'll go on record saying that if you can avoid the down shifting it's going to be easier on the trans. Normal street driving you will not have any issues downshifting the car. With line pressures around 100% it will have some snap to it.
Hutch builds some awesome TH400's that on the street they have no real snap in them. By far it's one of the most comfortable TH400's I've ever tried. The current trans is a Rossler and it's a little more rigid in it's shifts. You can get a 2nd gear band on the drum so that it will engage on downshifts otherwise the drum will tend to free spin. Carl offers this as a option in his TH400's for those that intend on street driving them a lot. Most TH400's for race only do not have this band in it. Essentially it allows the drum to spin faster than the input shaft. Then when you accelerate on a down shift the RPM has to climb up to match the drum speed.
Personally we've beaten, stomped, cooked and raped my TH400 in a few different setups and it is still as rock solid as it was the day I bought it. We have seen no signs that the abuse that we've thrown at it has caused any damage to it. Here's another video for your amusement.
http://stenodracing.com/milan/MM/Ste...et_Driving.wmv
Hutch builds some awesome TH400's that on the street they have no real snap in them. By far it's one of the most comfortable TH400's I've ever tried. The current trans is a Rossler and it's a little more rigid in it's shifts. You can get a 2nd gear band on the drum so that it will engage on downshifts otherwise the drum will tend to free spin. Carl offers this as a option in his TH400's for those that intend on street driving them a lot. Most TH400's for race only do not have this band in it. Essentially it allows the drum to spin faster than the input shaft. Then when you accelerate on a down shift the RPM has to climb up to match the drum speed.
Personally we've beaten, stomped, cooked and raped my TH400 in a few different setups and it is still as rock solid as it was the day I bought it. We have seen no signs that the abuse that we've thrown at it has caused any damage to it. Here's another video for your amusement.
http://stenodracing.com/milan/MM/Ste...et_Driving.wmv
Even though I have seen direct drums explode a couple times I have still managed to pull mine in 2nd by accident during a pass and let off it at 6500+rpm in second (easy to do on the street when things happen pretty quick) and this trans still works 100%. I also 'downshift and nail it' pretty often on the street with no problems, from what I understand as long as you shift to high when the RPM is up there downshifting and flooring it wont hurt anything. Using an off the shelf TCI RMVB TH400 that I have really beat on this year, I'll pull it apart over the winter to look at the clutches and if its OK I'll slap it right back in the car. I have probably 2500 hard street miles and 100 passes on it and it still works like the day I put it in.
I think to have the intermediate band functional it has to be a forward pattern manual valve body if I remember, but someone may be making a rmvb with engine braking. I drive mine all the time, its not a big deal, I can work the shifter with my eyes closed (B&M pro stick). Just loke any other 'race' parts on the street you just have to know their shortcomings and not forget what you are driving.
I think to have the intermediate band functional it has to be a forward pattern manual valve body if I remember, but someone may be making a rmvb with engine braking. I drive mine all the time, its not a big deal, I can work the shifter with my eyes closed (B&M pro stick). Just loke any other 'race' parts on the street you just have to know their shortcomings and not forget what you are driving.
Last edited by kp; Sep 30, 2005 at 08:16 PM.
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Do you guys run an Ultrabell case?
So as long as you downshift and stay in it, it should be ok? I am just used to lifting off the pedal when I downshift. Thats not the case?
So as long as you downshift and stay in it, it should be ok? I am just used to lifting off the pedal when I downshift. Thats not the case?
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Verdad Gallardo The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Originally Posted by kp
I think to have the intermediate band functional it has to be a forward pattern manual valve body if I remember, but someone may be making a rmvb with engine braking.
And yes, pay the extra money for the ultrabell. It's well worth it. Just replace the top four bolts on the rear cover to button heads or notch the bell to clear the stock bolts. If you don't, the bellhousing won't fit flush.
I'm moving this to the Automatic Transmission forum.
I daily drive my RMVB th350 and i LOVE IT!
My tranny guy told me its cool to down shift as long as you a accelerating so it doesn't free wheel.
And he said the only really damaging thing you can do is get on it in first or second into high rpm's and let off with out shifting into third.
My tranny guy told me its cool to down shift as long as you a accelerating so it doesn't free wheel.
And he said the only really damaging thing you can do is get on it in first or second into high rpm's and let off with out shifting into third.
I had you same reservations before I put my Rossler t400 rmvb trans in. This thing is sweet. Use a B&M Hammer shifter and a 6 speed console and it looks factory stock. Pull out in first, flick the wrist and you're in second with no harshness at part throttle, etc , etc. Very fun on the street....easy in stop and go traffic. If you can drive a 6 speed, this thing is cake. Rossler sets his up for a transbrake, but you don't have to install it. Reverse works like it should.
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
You can probably get into a very basic one for 1500, a well built one will be around 3000+ and the baddest ones he builds are about 4200 or so. A quick call to him and you'll find out pretty quick what your needs and price is. He's very good at letting you know about all the options.
Originally Posted by DERTY
You can probably get into a very basic one for 1500, a well built one will be around 3000+ and the baddest ones he builds are about 4200 or so. A quick call to him and you'll find out pretty quick what your needs and price is. He's very good at letting you know about all the options.
