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What do you guys think?
its impossible to get a high str without a high rpm flash point yet keeping efficiency within range.
its impossible to get a high str without a high rpm flash point yet keeping efficiency within range.
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If you want to save the transmission, get 3.42's or 3.73's in the rear end, buy a 3200-2.0 torque converter, & install an 18,000 GVW or higher transmission cooler. Also, hope that any engine modifications don't exceed a flywheel torque of 350-375 #-ft or less (this should be within the service factor of the transmission (maybe)).
Last edited by LS1-450; Oct 11, 2005 at 02:09 PM.
2) pick your stall size needed (powerband, shift point, shift extension, gearing, weight)
3) pick your convertor size (for efficiency issues)
4) the str will be taken care of.
you guys are missing the point of my post. str is a theoretical number achieved when you put a certian sized converter clutch and stall rating (for a given amount of tq and rearend gearing).
You can have a 3600/2.2 and 3600/1.6. The 2.2 would feel way better on the street and at the lights, netting you a better 60'. Why do ppl. go for lower STR? Because their needs are different, for example, a turbo that needs high RPM efficiency but spool RPM for launch. A 2.2STR is pretty high and going any higher you WILL sacrifice efficiency and horsepower to the wheels for a better launch - if you can hold it.
I have a 3400/2.1STR converter and it is about as high as I would go for a DD. But my opinion of what is best wil differ to someone else. My all round best recommendtion for a daily driver is a 3000/2.0. 3400+ is biassing on the track side. Any smaller and the gains are closer to stock, but they are still there.
Get real...
Change the weight and power of a car, and the stall and STR changes. Its a crap shoot unless you get a custom made converter.





