No, look this up... Jegs 130-80842
It's the universal one. I just linked to the first page of that thread, go to like the 3rd page.

 

again thats not made for our cars, like you said its a universal that you have to custom make it work.

 

True, but it's not really complicated to do the conversion...
And also, I've never missed a shift in my A4, so I don't think the need is all that big for the ratchet shifter. It's just kinda more fun.
I learned that it's easiest just to bump the shifter when racing, like don't press down the button. Because like you said, it doesn't lock or anything so it would be possible to slip. And also, if you don't press the button, it won't let you go past neutral.

 

yep, would be nice if we had a b&m mega shifter as a direct replacement. I did see a few installs that took the 82-93 firebird console mega shifter and installed it into our cars with a few minor modifications to it to make it work right. Dont know what they did to it. As for the stock shifter its a pita to mess with and not go one gear past what you want, can be done buy you have to pay attention(i do it all the time)

 

thanks for the info

 

If you want to manually shift an auto and have lots of fun, go get a Gear Vendors. I really, really want one of those but unfortunately i don't have 3k for something that isn't a 12 bolt.

basically, you end up with an 8 gear semi-automatic. Fully manual control with no clutch.

 

I'd like to point it out again. Again as in I did before in one of the other posts about this.
Several people claim it's bad to manually shift your automatic, not one person has any solid facts as to why it's bad. Just 'mine broke when I shifted it manually' so did my buddies, my transmission builder said this and that, I read on the internet, etc.

Anyone run hptuners, a transmission pressure gage at the same time and shift it manually, then automatically to see what happens?
I have, my opinion seems to differ from everyone elses, so do my experiences. For this reason I will keep my opinions and experiences to myself.

I will say that I have always upshifted and downshifted most GM RWD transmissions and have never had one fail, I build my own for me with my ideas for the most part.

I honestly hope one would fail so I could take it apart to see what happened.
I've taken transmissions I built for other people apart and wonder what the hell they did to them. Makes me wonder if it's driver error. Like the guy who asked if it would be better to let off the gas while you upshift, I still wonder what the point of doing that is, losing races I figure. Speaking of that....
I'd also like to know what a torsen force is, there is no definition for it that I can find. If you can, post a link I don't want to hear your own made up ****.
I have heard of shock loads, and I do know that is usually what breaks transmission gears among other parts in the drivetrain.

So post up on what you guys have seen on the pressure gage while running manually, what specifically failed, not what your transmission guy told you failed I mean what actually failed. Etc.

 

im with you on this one jxaxsxoxn

 

I guess I'm on everyones ignore list or no one who believes this rumor feels like admitting that they have no hands on experience. Still waiting on that definition of torsen force.
Am I the only non professional (as in does it as a hobby, not job or career) transmission builder on this site?

 

jxaxsxoxn, what technique do you use when manually shifting an A4?

do you just go WOT and push the gear selector up to the next gear?

what about downshifting?

 

The only time I need to manually upshift is when I reflash with hptuners and see if I can go faster by shifting later, the shifter does need to be moved a few miliseconds sooner before it actually shifts so it is tricky to be precise but if you know your car you should be able to do it.
It's usually done at WOT.

Sometimes I hold it in gear when I drive normally just to hear the exhaust, then stomp it and shift.

I've also downshifted fourth to second while hitting wot at the same time to get a better rolling launch since it never seems to downshift the way I want it to.

Most of this is done to see what happens, if it runs better I will tune the auto upshifts and downshifts to do it automatically.

When I first started I ran into some problems so I ran it with a gage to monitor the mainline pressure. I've changed a few things with hptuners that no one here or on their site does to get the upshift duration quicker/more firm and at the same time bumping the line pressure up only during the shift.

Sometimes I downshift just to hear the exhaust, most of the time it's to get the rpm up to where it makes the best power under the conditions.
This is all on my 2002 SS.

On my 438 powered '75 nova with a reverse manual th400 I sometimes downshift to get the rpm up to max power (7500 rpm) this is sometimes first, but once the rpm gets there I pull it to second so it might see a third to first shift to stay in first for well under a second.
I also never coast in second or first under 30 mph, it has no front band.
My th400 has a low sprag I bet no one has a th400 with that, it was only available in '64 and '65, they have smaller planetary gear pins, not that any of that matters, it has a 4L80E direct drum and it's in an '87 HD case that has all the holes helicoiled. I just built that one on my own with hand selected parts from a transmission hardparts supplier who was moving and told me to take whatever I wanted.

 

well i know when i was bone stock.. i was losing to a modded Dodge stealth TT AWD.. and i was leaving it in OD and racing... I dropped it in 1st and started shifting like that... and i started beating him!! So i definately know it helped me when i was stock.. but now that i'm tuned and have a stall.. I leave it in OD froma dead stop.. but i'll prob start leaving it in D instead so it doesn't lock up at WOT!

 

Thats exactly why I don't manually shift it.

 

i don't think it is bad to manually shift it, just fuking retarted. as far as the forward sprag/ launching in first thing, well that is good and fine but how common does that sprag go? big f'ing deal it takes stress off of it launching in first gear it doesn't matter.

i will continue to leave my car in OD and be happy. i think i see a thread on this subject every month or so, with the same stupid arguement.

 

I never said launching in first was going to help the forward sprag, I guess those two 4" diameter overrun clutches might help a tiny bit.

You mean retarded? Care to explain? Probably not probably can't.
Say you get to the track or in a race and it's not hitting the power peak, if you know how to drive you can hold the gears longer by shifting it manually.
And most important if you get into a situation like this you can see where it shifts best and tune it to automatically shift there next time.

To say it's RETARTED with no explaination as to why is just plain ignorant which proves my point again, people think they know something but they have no solid proof to back it up, no arguement, nothing. It's all just about what you've read on the internet.
Yea me too, thats why I'm sticking to this one and challenging those who think they know something about it to let it out. Facts only not what's been told, not whats been read. I mean the guy like me who has manually shifted the trans, broken it, pulled it out and found what failed.

No one has come forward with that.
This has been viewed 171 times since I posted that first long reply....oh yea and I'm still waiting on that definition of torsen force.

 

because of what i read on the internet? hey dueschebag, i have hptuners and i tuned my car to shift where i want it to, if you have to set the rev limiter higher and play with the shift points like that you ARE RETARDED because you will never hit it the exact same time twice.

you could do your RETARDED method or you can make the car shift where you want it to and play with the tune, then when you are satisfied leave it. which way seems right to you?

shouldn't you be aguing with that english guy or something. you and him love to argue over stupid ****. im done with this, just thought i'd let you know that manually shifting an ls1 is not going to help anything. if you have the ability to raise the rev limiter then you have the ability to play with shift points.

 

You know what, I don't manually shift my car. I never said I did it on a regular basis, I do it mainly before tuning.
The arguement, just to refresh your memory, is that I am saying manually shifting an automatic won't hurt it. While not necessary if you choose to do it and do it properly it will not kill your transmission.
It was fun pissing you off.
And BTW I'm waiting for more replies and a definition of torsen force, doesn't look like I'm going to get that, maybe because it doesn't exist.

Just noticed this ....It appears I already answered this in the post above the question.....

 

My second Trans Am and I've driven both of them as hard as a LS1 can be driven ... ALWAYS downshifting and upshifting with nearly every gear change ... like it's a stick. Never had one single issue with either transmission.

Now, I'm not saying it's good OR bad to do it. I've seen it argued for couple of years here and not one person I've seen proved that it's bad ... a lot of argument and theory, but, no proof.

I have found that when I let the computer do the shfiting in D or O/D the 1-2, and 2-3 shifts are not consistent at a specific RPM ... and sometimes I hit my rev limiter (6300 rpm), which is set well above the factory setting. When I launch in first, the second the car moves, I hit 2nd and the computer still shifts the gears. It just does it more accurately at exactly the specific rpm the PCM is tuned to shift at ... 5800 rpm. And I have NEVER hit the rev limiter when shifting this way. It's just noticeably more accurate shifting from first on launch ... 2-3 gear shifts are the same ... soon as it hits 2nd gear, I quickly move it up to 3rd and let the PCM shift to 3rd. Anyone know why manually shifting and then letting the computer is more accurate for me?