do big stalls kill your top end
while ive experienced a lower trap with a TC i havent noticed any loss of power from a roll like some have described.
at least not from low or midrange speeds. i guess from a 120+ roll i might notice but who cares.
at least not from low or midrange speeds. i guess from a 120+ roll i might notice but who cares.
who is locking up their converter in the quarter?
I know it's worth about 3-4 mph on my '91. I usually lock it up at the top of second gear (manual switch). This would also help in a 'frum roll' race I would think.
I know it's worth about 3-4 mph on my '91. I usually lock it up at the top of second gear (manual switch). This would also help in a 'frum roll' race I would think.
Originally Posted by gator's 99TA
we put a yank st4000 converter in a stock TA. the mph went from 106 to 108 consistently but "lost" nearly 20 rwhp on the dyno.
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From: Tree-Hugging, Bug eating CALI'
My limited experience leads me to think there is some lost. I know my converter dyno' d 40 RWHP less, unlocked. I am hoping with DRs, I can hook up, and cast my worries aside. I know that after switching to LTs and adding a converter, under similiar conditions, I am running near the same MPH, and my ETs are similar. Because of my street tires, I roll onto the throttle, about half, and go WOT after I am past the 60'. I must admit, it' s encouraging seeing you guys with an SS-series gain MPH AND drop ET. I can' t wait.
Originally Posted by fastlt1
I'd say the difference is in the LT1 and LS1 power band. A high stall actually takes a LT1 out of its power band some. LS1s really start to shine above 4000.
Originally Posted by radz282003
My limited experience leads me to think there is some lost. I know my converter dyno' d 40 RWHP less, unlocked. I am hoping with DRs, I can hook up, and cast my worries aside. I know that after switching to LTs and adding a converter, under similiar conditions, I am running near the same MPH, and my ETs are similar. Because of my street tires, I roll onto the throttle, about half, and go WOT after I am past the 60'. I must admit, it' s encouraging seeing you guys with an SS-series gain MPH AND drop ET. I can' t wait.
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With the vast majority of transmissions I have built over the years, with the right torque converter, you will drop ET, and gain MPH in the majority of cases. Torque converter "match-up" is somewhat of a science, and it isn't always going to work the first time out, but when done "correctly", you should see gains on both ends, most of the time.
went from a Yank 3000 (burnt it up along with trans)
to a Yank SS3600
picked up .3 in 1/4 and 2 mph
From a roll ........that 3600 was a BIG improvement over the 3000 but then again the 3600 has a higher STR of 2.5 so it hits harder
to a Yank SS3600
picked up .3 in 1/4 and 2 mph
From a roll ........that 3600 was a BIG improvement over the 3000 but then again the 3600 has a higher STR of 2.5 so it hits harder
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ok, i got a question, i just cammed my car along with a few other things in my SIG, my car feels like Mush before it hits 3,000 rpm's and is all over the place. it also fights the breaks throught the stop lights. i know i need a stall, now i was told for that cam that i have the best stall size was 3,000. any help would be great. also my trans is messing up sometimes when it shifts from 2-3 at WOT it goes up to 5,500 RPM's then bangs off the rev limitter, like someone sliped it in Neutral??
and im going with an EDGE converter
and im going with an EDGE converter
Originally Posted by rule 7 ss
went from a Yank 3000 (burnt it up along with trans)
to a Yank SS3600
picked up .3 in 1/4 and 2 mph
From a roll ........that 3600 was a BIG improvement over the 3000 but then again the 3600 has a higher STR of 2.5 so it hits harder
to a Yank SS3600
picked up .3 in 1/4 and 2 mph
From a roll ........that 3600 was a BIG improvement over the 3000 but then again the 3600 has a higher STR of 2.5 so it hits harder
I couldn't agree more. Your torque converter needs matched to your entire setup. Trial and error may be necessary to find the perfect converter for your application, whether it's the 1/4 mile or a daily driver.
Holding all else equal (same engine, same tires, same suspension, same road/track conditions, etc), if you had a stock converter and went to a high stall, that's only two points that you can collect data for. Perhaps more stall or less stall would work better with your setup. Just because your ET drops and your trap speed increases doesn't mean you found the ideal converter for your setup.
Holding all else equal (same engine, same tires, same suspension, same road/track conditions, etc), if you had a stock converter and went to a high stall, that's only two points that you can collect data for. Perhaps more stall or less stall would work better with your setup. Just because your ET drops and your trap speed increases doesn't mean you found the ideal converter for your setup.
Originally Posted by Pro Built Automatics
With the vast majority of transmissions I have built over the years, with the right torque converter, you will drop ET, and gain MPH in the majority of cases. Torque converter "match-up" is somewhat of a science, and it isn't always going to work the first time out, but when done "correctly", you should see gains on both ends, most of the time.
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From: Tinsel Town, USA
Originally Posted by Pro Built Automatics
With the vast majority of transmissions I have built over the years, with the right torque converter, you will drop ET, and gain MPH in the majority of cases. Torque converter "match-up" is somewhat of a science, and it isn't always going to work the first time out, but when done "correctly", you should see gains on both ends, most of the time.
12 Second Club
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Santa Clarita, CA
I have dynoed 376 rwhp with a vig2800 locked, car weighs about 3550+my 200 lbs and have only traped a best of 108, but usually 106. Don't think my vig as helped in the trap speed department in my case.
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Originally Posted by MNR-0
All smaller converters are designed to slip more than stock, so you will be revving harder for the same axle RPM. A smaller converter will hit harder than stock off the line and give you shift extension that keeps you in your torque band. So your ETs will be lower. As for MPH, it really depends on the trap RPM and efficiency of the converter. However, on the Dyno, a high stall will soak up some rwhp over the stock converter due to slip, reading less peak power.
Some converters are more efficient than others. The higher the stall the more inefficient it is at peak power. But what you lose from the top top you give to the bottom by way of torque multiplication - getting you out of the hole real quick.
The 21 blade stator on its own is irrelevant to determining how efficient a converter is. The combination of the impellor, turbine and stator and engine torque will yield a specific efficiency at high RPM. You can mix and match stators and impellors (pumps) to yield the same stall RPM, but they will deliver different efficiences and torque multiplication.
As said above, it depends what you want to do. What do you want out of a converter? Theres so much info here try doing a search on "converter efficiency".
Some converters are more efficient than others. The higher the stall the more inefficient it is at peak power. But what you lose from the top top you give to the bottom by way of torque multiplication - getting you out of the hole real quick.
The 21 blade stator on its own is irrelevant to determining how efficient a converter is. The combination of the impellor, turbine and stator and engine torque will yield a specific efficiency at high RPM. You can mix and match stators and impellors (pumps) to yield the same stall RPM, but they will deliver different efficiences and torque multiplication.
As said above, it depends what you want to do. What do you want out of a converter? Theres so much info here try doing a search on "converter efficiency".
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Posts: 332
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Originally Posted by zboner
ok, i got a question, i just cammed my car along with a few other things in my SIG, my car feels like Mush before it hits 3,000 rpm's and is all over the place. it also fights the breaks throught the stop lights. i know i need a stall, now i was told for that cam that i have the best stall size was 3,000. any help would be great. also my trans is messing up sometimes when it shifts from 2-3 at WOT it goes up to 5,500 RPM's then bangs off the rev limitter, like someone sliped it in Neutral??
and im going with an EDGE converter
and im going with an EDGE converter
Ok so lets say my bolt on car with fuddle 3600 2.2 str is on the highway, a stock verter full bolt on car with same power, of course i will kill him off the line but lets say we hit it at 30 or 50, i will jump a lot correct, but will he catch up?
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Originally Posted by Superman09
Ok so lets say my bolt on car with fuddle 3600 2.2 str is on the highway, a stock verter full bolt on car with same power, of course i will kill him off the line but lets say we hit it at 30 or 50, i will jump a lot correct, but will he catch up?
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I have an LT1 and I gained 2mph with the Yank SS3600 over the stock converter and cut my time .3. Next time I go to the track I am betting I will cut the .3 down even more and the mph may come up as well. Towards the end of the night I was finding the best launch and shift point combinations. Each run The car ran quicker(E.T.) and faster(MPH).
