Best Components To Complement a Torque Converter
here, butI run Goodyear KDWS, which are also all-season, because as you know, winter in Kansas can be like San Antonio one day and Fargo the next. In the summer I will put my Nitto DR's on the rear. A hi-stall converter (I take it that you mean higher, not lower) actually makes it makes it easier to feather the throttle in slippery conditions. You just don't want to stomp it, or you will be sideways fast. Jimmyblue, It sounds like you enjoy your Fuddle TC . Why did you make the switch over? From what I have gathered about these converters, is that they have a bigger clutch. This sounds like a good thing, But I wish i knew a little more about the dynamics of converter and auto transmissions. Its a lot to absorb, especially having no background in cars.
That being said, the stock A4 is really hit or miss. It's very strange that when I first set out to buy my converter it was rare to hear about reliability issues with a TC on a bolt-on car. Now, more than ever, I see guys blowing up their trannies with small TCs and mild bolt-ons. It looks to be an issue with '01-'02 cars primarily.
BTW, a little info I've picked up about the 4l60e: there are 8-11 sensors that have their hand in determining line pressure. MAF, MAP, TPS, etc, etc. In a cammed car for example, the low vaccuum at idle can throw a MAP code which will 'f' up your shift pressure. The MAP sensor can send your car into limp home mode where your line pressure is at the max even at part throttle. Combine that with a lighter, smaller converter and you're just asking for trouble. Vaccuum modulated is the way to go. Takes all the guess work out of line pressure calculations. Line pressure is determined by vaccuum pressure. PERIOD.
*NO TORQUE CONVERTER OUT THERE IS PLUG AND PLAY. ADJUSTMENTS NEED TO MADE TO THE PCM AND THE VALVE BODY FOR RELIABILITY AND DRIVEABILITY*
Tuning is a good idea. Especially if you have an 01-02 PCM. You will want to get rid of Torque Management. There are a lot of great things that can be accomplished through tuning.
I think both have their advantages.
Cooler of course.
Gears really only need to be done if the converter feels too loose for your taste. Looseness really is a person by person assessment. Get gears if it feels too loose. Otherwise, save yourself the money for a cam or something much more helpful.
Try a search for Fuddle (assuming the search is working). You will find hundreds of posts with people who love our converters.
Racing? Well in the future i might put in heads,cams, and a 3.42. But then again I hear i wont need gears if i get a high enough stall. I want a good STR ratio, but I didn't want one that's going to kill my gas mileage. And then there's the saying "Go big or you'll regret it" But then you guys have the upgrade feature right, so I was thinking something over a 3000rpm and below a 4000 would be sufficient. There's a lot of variables. So once i get this all figured out, expect a call from me John. I'm sure you'll be happy to help.
And Everyone that responded to this post, thanks,its greatly appreciated.
Last edited by foxtrotter; Dec 31, 2005 at 08:33 AM.
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