T/C restall
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From: Crosslanes WV
T/C restall Hey guys.. I am debating.. I bought a stall for extremely cheap knowing that it probably needs some work.. so do I just grab the yellow pages and have the local shop that can work on t/c do it.. Or do I pack the thing up, pay for shipping to and from Fuddle racing?? I have no idea what the str is on this thing, but its a TCI Street Fighter 3000.. If you do a search you will find it not too long ago in the for sale section.. basically the guys says it is too loose.. says he has ran several converters in alot of different cars and this one feels way too loose.. also said the car needs to get up to 2K to move in reverse.. So John if you have any input/prices please let me know.. and anyone representing TCI please feel free as well.. Oh, dont know if it matters but I am pretty sure he said it does have an anti-ballon plate for nitrous..??? now i gotta do a search to find that thread 
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From: Crosslanes WV
This is taken directly from the "for sale" add..
"TCI Street Fighter 3000 converter. Has been cut open and rebuilt by JW converters, locks up good, looks new, has anti balloon plate. $175 plus shipping, $150 local pick up. sold".
"It's a TCI 242931, recommeded by TCI for my stock weight 2002 SS with 3.23 gears.
I bought it used and was told it had 8,000-10,000 miles on it and was in a car that ran 11's on nitrous.
It was taken out and a replaced with a higher stall.
Then it was rebuilt by JW converters. It has a new lockup clutch in it that seems to work fine. I've heard of TCI's having lock up problems so they must have used a different clutch.
It was run for two weeks in a stock '02 Z28.
Then I got it and ran it for about a week.
It felt too loose to me, it had to be revved close to 2000 rpm to get the car to move in reverse. But with the brakes on, stomping the gas the tires would spin around 2500 RPM. It ran fine at wot and never set any codes for me.
When I had the trans out I took it apart to do some internal mods, after that the pump o-ring leaked so I could run it but had to take the trans back out anyway. I decided this converter is not what I wanted so I put the stock one back in when I took it out to fix the leak. I'm keeping the stock one in it".
"TCI Street Fighter 3000 converter. Has been cut open and rebuilt by JW converters, locks up good, looks new, has anti balloon plate. $175 plus shipping, $150 local pick up. sold".
"It's a TCI 242931, recommeded by TCI for my stock weight 2002 SS with 3.23 gears.
I bought it used and was told it had 8,000-10,000 miles on it and was in a car that ran 11's on nitrous.
It was taken out and a replaced with a higher stall.
Then it was rebuilt by JW converters. It has a new lockup clutch in it that seems to work fine. I've heard of TCI's having lock up problems so they must have used a different clutch.
It was run for two weeks in a stock '02 Z28.
Then I got it and ran it for about a week.
It felt too loose to me, it had to be revved close to 2000 rpm to get the car to move in reverse. But with the brakes on, stomping the gas the tires would spin around 2500 RPM. It ran fine at wot and never set any codes for me.
When I had the trans out I took it apart to do some internal mods, after that the pump o-ring leaked so I could run it but had to take the trans back out anyway. I decided this converter is not what I wanted so I put the stock one back in when I took it out to fix the leak. I'm keeping the stock one in it".
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From: Crosslanes WV
Unless they gave me a great deal I think I would rather take it somewhere else.. From what I have read on here everyone says that the lock-up part of the converter goes bad.. This one has had some other part put in to fix that problem.. I would hate for TCI to rebuild it and put a "bad" lockup unit back in it.. I dont know crap about converters or what has to be done to fix this one, I am just going on what I have read.. If TCI is the way to go then im all for it.. Thanks
On The Tree
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From: Brick, NJ
I'd start with JW and ask them if they could help, as far as telling you what they did. The unit should have some form of numbering system so they can log it for their records. Then I'd contact a converter builder who you feel comfortable with to open and inspect it. I have used, thru own and friends units, Yank - Precision/Vigilante - TCS and ProTorque. I put a prototype 3000 stall ProTorque in my 98 T/A with 2.73 gears and was very happy with it, both performance wise and driveability wise.
Dennis
Dennis
i would call TCI and see what they have to say about it. Never know he might have had trouble with the TC and just wanted to puch it off on someone else. who knows, I had that happen on here, not saying that he did, but just make sure before you install it. If not i would call John at Fuddle, see if he can work on it for you, I know that he builds sweet TC's and might be able to hook you up with a good deal.
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Never know he might have had trouble with the TC and just wanted to puch it off on someone else.
Yes JW did stamp a number on it.
Like I said...I bought it from a guy on here, I used it for a week or two, I had to take the trans out to fix another problem, and put the stock converter back in.
I did say it seemed looser than anything else I ever ran but I also never ran that high a stall speed with that low (numerical) gear ratio in a vehicle that heavy.
I also have the same converter I got from a guy on here, it's an older one that uses stock bolts and does not look like it has a ballon plate but it has had tcc problems so I haven't run it yet.
I can guarantee the converter I sold will perform well from a dead stop with the pedal to the floor, it just feels mushy and loose around town and thats not the feel I want.
Damn I just shipped it today.
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Originally Posted by 1BAD98TA
Hey guys.. I am debating.. I bought a stall for extremely cheap knowing that it probably needs some work.. so do I just grab the yellow pages and have the local shop that can work on t/c do it.. Or do I pack the thing up, pay for shipping to and from Fuddle racing?? I have no idea what the str is on this thing, but its a TCI Street Fighter 3000.. If you do a search you will find it not too long ago in the for sale section.. basically the guys says it is too loose.. says he has ran several converters in alot of different cars and this one feels way too loose.. also said the car needs to get up to 2K to move in reverse.. So John if you have any input/prices please let me know.. and anyone representing TCI please feel free as well.. Oh, dont know if it matters but I am pretty sure he said it does have an anti-ballon plate for nitrous..??? now i gotta do a search to find that thread
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From: Crosslanes WV
jxaxsxoxn.. I dont want you to think I am trying to make you look bad in any way.. In the for sale add you were very clear about the converter and why you were selling it so cheap.. and for everyone in this post, he was very honest and forthcoming about everything.. I was simply looking for some input on if I should install the thing, or have it checked first based on the discription of the problem Jason was having.. I took the cost of a rebuild into account when I bought it.. If the price would have been more than what I could have got the converter new for then I wouldnt have bought it.. But Jason gave me a great deal so if the converter does have to have a little money put into I will still come out on top.. I did a websearch for JW Converters and it come up with almost nothing except Cambell Enterprises.. Are these the people I need to contact??? Or should the converter feel as loose as he discribed with a stock weight highway geared car??
I understand.
The number you will see on the converter that JW stamped is R95707-A.
I know because it's on the JW box it came in, I did not ship it in the JW box.
JW Performance Transmissions
1826 Baldwin St.
Rockledge, FL 32955
407/632-6205
www.auto2000.com/jw
Maybe you could get some people with this converter to describe how it feels to them.
I have jimmyblue's old converter, it's the same part number, it doesn't seem to have a balloon plate like the one I sold you, it's never been cut open. He described it as being a little tighter than the one I sold you. Just had tcc problems, so I might have that one rebuilt in the future and try it. If I just put it in right now I could tell you if they stall the same.
But I don't think I want a converter in the car, I'm going to keep it mostly stock.
I will probably get that converter rebuilt and put it in my S10 along with the spare LS1 I have. Thats way in the future though.
The number you will see on the converter that JW stamped is R95707-A.
I know because it's on the JW box it came in, I did not ship it in the JW box.
JW Performance Transmissions
1826 Baldwin St.
Rockledge, FL 32955
407/632-6205
www.auto2000.com/jw
Maybe you could get some people with this converter to describe how it feels to them.
I have jimmyblue's old converter, it's the same part number, it doesn't seem to have a balloon plate like the one I sold you, it's never been cut open. He described it as being a little tighter than the one I sold you. Just had tcc problems, so I might have that one rebuilt in the future and try it. If I just put it in right now I could tell you if they stall the same.
But I don't think I want a converter in the car, I'm going to keep it mostly stock.
I will probably get that converter rebuilt and put it in my S10 along with the spare LS1 I have. Thats way in the future though.
