What effect will a Torque Converter have on normal driving?
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,090
Likes: 0
From: Lafayette/West Lafayette, IN
What effect will a Torque Converter have on normal driving? I just got a 2000 Trans Am WS6 A4 last summer and I'm wanting to start doing some modifications to it. I heard some of the first things to do are to get the air intake lid(whisper lid) and a torque converter for it, and then I may get a new exhaust. My question is, how will the car actually feel with a different torque converter other than the stock one? How will it feel just driving around normally and also accelerating harder(I'm mostly wondering about normal driving, I know accelerating will be better)? Also, what differences will I feel with different stall speeds and what do you recommend that I get? I'm not going to be racing around a lot, its just for driving around and then accelerating harder when I feel like it. Thanks!
A moderate converter will make the car more
responsive. You could really beastify it by going
big but let's leave that for your second converter.
The best thing is, you change from a "more pedal
doesn't do anything" (because you're coupled up
tight at low RPM and there's just no more torque
made from a more-open throttle) to a pedal-
proportional RPM slide and acceleration. Getting
a converter that matches the motor's nature is
nice. I found the TCI 3000 pleasant in this regard.
Similar would be the Yank SS3200 I expect, though
the SS3200 is probably a superior piece as far as
the clutch and maybe efficiency (though the TCI
delivered me about 97%). Something in this range
will still creep on the level, climb light grades at
1500-2000RPM unlocked but still let you slide right
up into the powerband when you push the pedal
and scoot.
Moving up to a 3500 I've found it less "intuitive",
needs more pedal and more RPM to go. Pulls harder
when you're well into it but not as "natural". It's
not as well matched to my stockish motor, but I
stepped up because (a) my clutch was pretty much
toast and (b) moving past stock engine config bit
by bit and figured I'd get ahead of that, a little.
responsive. You could really beastify it by going
big but let's leave that for your second converter.
The best thing is, you change from a "more pedal
doesn't do anything" (because you're coupled up
tight at low RPM and there's just no more torque
made from a more-open throttle) to a pedal-
proportional RPM slide and acceleration. Getting
a converter that matches the motor's nature is
nice. I found the TCI 3000 pleasant in this regard.
Similar would be the Yank SS3200 I expect, though
the SS3200 is probably a superior piece as far as
the clutch and maybe efficiency (though the TCI
delivered me about 97%). Something in this range
will still creep on the level, climb light grades at
1500-2000RPM unlocked but still let you slide right
up into the powerband when you push the pedal
and scoot.
Moving up to a 3500 I've found it less "intuitive",
needs more pedal and more RPM to go. Pulls harder
when you're well into it but not as "natural". It's
not as well matched to my stockish motor, but I
stepped up because (a) my clutch was pretty much
toast and (b) moving past stock engine config bit
by bit and figured I'd get ahead of that, a little.
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
From: Monticello, MN
Originally Posted by corvet786c
You will use more gas around town, but highway use is actually better. Great 1st Mod to do.
Ed
Same at cruise, perhaps some marginal improvement
in acceleration fuel economy due to lighter rotating
mass and less diameter. I wouldn't expect a whole
lot. But at least it won't cost you as long as it doesn't
slip (which is not to be taken for granted, some are
stronger than others).
in acceleration fuel economy due to lighter rotating
mass and less diameter. I wouldn't expect a whole
lot. But at least it won't cost you as long as it doesn't
slip (which is not to be taken for granted, some are
stronger than others).
