Can a stock A4 handle this?????
I destroyed mine with just bolt-ons if that gives you any ideas. I think it is safe to say that mine was weak from the beginning, some hold up just great.
What it comes down to is this: If you want to pump a lot of power through an A4, start saving for a built tranny.
I am replacing my stock A4 next week when the cam goes in. I have TM removed from the PCM, I have a 3500 stall ‘verter, I run the car hard, and I’m not in a position where I have time to cart this car around to replace the tranny when it breaks 50 miles away at the track, so I’m doing it now. Also, this way when I do heads, intake, etc. I’ll already have the tranny to back things up.
Mine crapped out with just bolt-ons and a 3500 stall. Oh, and a lot of hard driving. LOL
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Replace all clutches with Raybestos Blue racing clutches
Install Raybestos Hi Static low/rev
Install Hi energy band
Replace all steels with Kolene Steels
Replace all bushings
Replace all seals and gaskets
Replace Sun gear shell with HD harden drum shell
Replace stator with 4340 steel shaft
Install Billet servo
Install HD low roller sprag
Install HD Mechanical Diode sprag 3-4 v/s roller clutch
Mill both pump halves flat.
Replace pump rings with billet rings
Replace pump vanes with harden kolene vanes
Install Hi psi regulator valve
Machine case and convert from electronic line to modulated
Set all internal clearances to min specs.
Recalibrate VB for positive shifts.
The price is $1650. And yes, a tranny cooler is ALWAYS a good idea. That was one of my first mods.
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The built 4L60E that I'm buying is from site sponser Speed Inc. It includes the following:
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">It will probably still blow up. First rule of racing is never rebuild parts that aren't broken. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
<strong>Can folks who toasted one talk a little about how it acted as it was dying? I'm trying to figure out if I have a hardware or software problem <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">My stock tranny refused to make the 2-3 shift at WOT, then started slipping. I decided to take in in to be looked at and on the way to the shop while sitting at a light, smoke started pouring out from under my hood. I pulled over popped the hood and the tranny had built up so much pressure that it blew the locking cap off of the dipstick and drenched the engine compartment in ATF.
Are there anyways to prolong the live of a tranny other than a cooler? or is it just a matter of time?
I had the same symptoms as Reboot's tranny. It holding the 2-3 shift, then banging the rev limiter, now it slips like crazy.
I wouldn't go with the Art Carr, for the same price you can get a FLP Level IV or if you want to give it a whirl, try the Speed Inc. tranny.
At this point, my suggestion is the FLP. It is well proven.
Your best bet is to call 630-820-9294 and ask for Chuck. He will answer all of your questions. He is often busy, but he will happily talk to you.
Denzil
<strong>you can choose from three levels of **** firmness to suit your taste,</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">are we talkin trannies or toilets <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> ?





