yea but the converter is not through the trans shop I'm not bitchn bout the install $ but the money to fix the broken converter that shouldve been rite originally ......well see after mon I guess

 

well I just talked to jon and I'm going to try to manually lock it and see if that works

 

If multiple things are reading strange then I'd start with
pull, inspect (for bent / pushed pins, etc.) the trans
harness connector.

For lockup problems, the cause may well be misfires
(true or false, the lightweight converter raises the hit
rate and will prevent lockup).

PWM operation may or may not be removed by a shift
kit, read the fine print there. I just set my TCC PWM
min value to 98%, and forget it, lockup, bam!.

I don't see a clean description of the problem, really, so
hard to make any kind of more reasonable guesses. But
these are things I've had to do, that worked. If you can
clarify the problem maybe you won't get such bullshit
"answers" from the trans shop and more helpful guesses
here.

 

well I think it could be tye tcc selenoid because this only happened after I hit it from a roll it never locked since but did before. what is the 98 percent thing wen I get a mail order tune can I tell them that

 

Can fluid level cause it not to unlock?

 

Just talk to Rodney at RPM, and have them build your tranny, since it sounds like it is messed up anyways....and send the converter back to fuddle and have them REPLACE it, not fix it...I had a horrible time with a PI Vig converter, sent it in and they said it was fine...it wasn't....I bought a Yank and everything is fine.

SDB

 

well ill see if this works first

 

Is it just fuddle converters that have a problem with PWM?

 

PWM makes for soft slow applies. Some clutches are made for
slipping smoothly and some are made for hooking up big torque.
A lot of the higher-grab ones are going to moan / chatter when
you try and do a wimp apply. That's the trade-off. The harder /
faster you engage the clutch the less chance it has to set that
up, and the quicker you get to locked and the less odds of the
PCM backing out pressure to where the clutch has to slip out
of lock, while it's supposed to be. If you're buying a performance
clutch there's a good chance you'll get some noise in a non-
performance, pressure starved region.

You're spending way too much money and effort on parts,
without knowing for sure about why lockup is not happening.
There are common non-hardware reasons that you haven't
gone through checking out. Put the charge card down and
hook somebody's scanner up, it could well be ten minutes
of tuning time to fix.

 

well the gfs dad is a snap on dealer and ill get his pro scanner tonite or tommorrow and what should I be looking for

 

Slvr98....It sounds an aweful lot like your bashing Fuddle here, no I'm not a Moderator, or have any vested interest in Fuddle. However, you installed a TC. It worked fine for two days, then you punch it from a roll, and now it has issues. First thing you do is slam everything. If the Sensor in the trans went bad, or was bad, and its amplified by having a lighter more reactive TC then here is another 2 pages of BS inferring Fuddle isnt that great. Kind of stupid. If it is the TC, you should have talked with Fuddle FIRST, then if it were an issue with not honoring warratny or something feel free to post up giving them ****. Know the norms, the unwritten rules that guide our society:

1 When there is a problem with a product, contact the Point of Purchase first, not the manufacturer. This gives everyone involved the heads up there was an issue. Let them attempt to resolve the issue. e.g. you buy xxxx from Dollar Speed Shop, and the part goes bad, call Dollar SS first, they may cover the shipping and or send a new XXXX out to you, if not at least they will give you the right # to call for Customer Assistance from XXXX maker.

2 If XXXX dont want to deal with you, and Dollar doesnt either, post up, that technique always gets their attention. Just make sure you actually talked to the right person at both places, dont leave a message and decide a day or two is too long to wait for a smaller company that just saved you a few hundred dollars!

3 Dont go posting inflammatory **** without contacting Point of Purchase and XXXXmaker first and when you do decide to post about it, give as detail as you can in one post, answer the questins being asked as thoroughly as possible, and be prepared to hear the answers you may not want to hear!


Now with that, I have had to contact Fuddle, yes they can be a little difficult, especially holidays time, and whenever there is a GP or sale going on. However, not as bad as some other Higher Priced TC have been. Regardless, when I talked to John there was no issue with me sending the TC in to him, no questions asked or anything other than where do I send it for warranty, he gave me the address and I sent it off. Once he even had a replacement on its way before he got the TC back, not to sure anyplace would do that. Do other companies have a TC that ships out that may have been out of spec or wahtever, yep. Its nature of the beast when your doing such a high volume.

Now, if the manual switch worked then thats great but its not the end all. You'd need tuning.
If you can, pop the inspection cover and look onto the forward facing plate of the TC, look to see if its nice and pretty blue, or does it have a burn mark around it? I had one TC that the clutches burnt up in it after just a week or so. Made similar sounds and stuff, but again, once I told John what was up, the TC was on its way.

Iwish you the best and hope its something very little and relatively cheap.
Charlie

 

I talked to john and very helpful just want this whole mess back working not meant to bash him but thanks man for the help

 

Have had 2 converters in my car and neither would work right until the trans fluid was exactly right. Is your trans fluid at the correct level?
After I got the fluid correct, car shifted and ran good.

 

If you scan it you want to see TCC Mode, this tells you
if it's trying to lock. If it says locked (or whatever the
symbol might be in Snap-On's scan tool) and it slips then
the problem is the clutch or the pressure feeding it. This
requires a real time scanner, not just a code reader.

When I was having misfire-induced failure to lock I would
not see the "locked" condition reported. There was another
mode value showing, not locked or unlocked but a "wait"
or something, waiting for misfires to quit bugging.

You might as easily put a DMM to the TCC lock wire from
the PCM, it will show zero volts or so when applied. Meter
to the TCC PWM signal will show a varying voltage when
PWM action is going on, 12V when solid applied. If this
Snap-On scanner is only a code reader than older methods
can still be used to dope it out. Find these in the pinout
list for the '98, I have only the info for my model year but
it can be dug up on the Web.