REALLY ROUGH CONVERTOR SHUTTER
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From: Barbaria
REALLY ROUGH CONVERTOR SHUTTER I have a 4L60e with vig 3200, 3 washer transgo, cooler, and a decent size cam. Ever since I got the cam about a month ago, the convertor shudders really bad when it's locked and I'm coasting between 60-40 mph. It is extremely bad around 40mph, bad enough that I can hear popping and banging sounds coming from the transmission. There is also a slight vibration at highway speeds, but I'm not sure if that's from the convertor or my chromo DS.
So my main question, how do I fix this? Can I do anything, or do I just have to deal with it? I have tried stock and 85mm MAFs, it doesn't help. Checked fluid many times, it still looks new. Is it possibly a trans mount going bad too? This is my 2nd stock transmission, and has about 15k miles on it. The banging is driving me insane. Thanks to anyone that replies.
<small>[ April 30, 2002, 11:49 PM: Message edited by: JimTA ]</small>
So my main question, how do I fix this? Can I do anything, or do I just have to deal with it? I have tried stock and 85mm MAFs, it doesn't help. Checked fluid many times, it still looks new. Is it possibly a trans mount going bad too? This is my 2nd stock transmission, and has about 15k miles on it. The banging is driving me insane. Thanks to anyone that replies.
<small>[ April 30, 2002, 11:49 PM: Message edited by: JimTA ]</small>
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From: Casselberry, FL.
Re: REALLY ROUGH CONVERTOR SHUTTER I have the exact same problem. I have the same setup and have experienced this problem since January when I first swapped converters. I was running a SY3500 and it was fine. I have tried a torque arm, a tranny mount, driveshaft, MAF, you name it... I have had 3 different mechanic look at it and they all tell me it is cam surge. I thought that raising the converter lockup mph would help. I had it raised to 44-45mph. It helped a little but the shudder is still there. I don't hear any noise from my tranny. I am thinking about having the rear end gears checked. I highly doubt this is the problem though.
I feel for you man. This problem is so bad I have contemplated getting rid of the car. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
If you need any help narrowing down ideas or have any let me know.
Jim
I feel for you man. This problem is so bad I have contemplated getting rid of the car. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
If you need any help narrowing down ideas or have any let me know.
Jim
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Re: REALLY ROUGH CONVERTOR SHUTTER Jim, just as an FYI I have a SY3500 and a B1 as you know. I don’t have this issue, but I do have a hard time getting the ‘verter to lock. It won’t lock up till the tranny is very warm, and then only sometimes.
I think it’s probably ‘verter/cam related. Maybe the larger clutch size of the SY keeps that from happening? Have you talked to PI yet?
I think it’s probably ‘verter/cam related. Maybe the larger clutch size of the SY keeps that from happening? Have you talked to PI yet?
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From: Casselberry, FL.
Re: REALLY ROUGH CONVERTOR SHUTTER I had the SY3500 in my TA with the Thunder cam and it worked perfect. The SY did take a while to lock when it was cold but I heard that this was normal. I have spoke to a few members on the board about the converter size difference and they said that could be some of the problem. I have a thread going regarding my rear end gears possibly being the culprit. I was thinking that since the problem only shows up after the converter locks that maybe the converter is absorbing some of the shudder but once it locks it is not able to absorb the shudder. I don't know I am willing to try anything to get rid of this problem. <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" />
Jim
Jim
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From: Eastern, MD
Re: REALLY ROUGH CONVERTOR SHUTTER My PT4000 did the same thing about a week or so after the install of the converter and Macs. I spoke to Mike at Yank, and he told me that I probably had stored some misfire codes, and if I cleared them out that the shudder should go away. I did not have Atap, so I just used my HPP3, and reprogrammed again (I am told that this clears stored codes, and starts fresh). After reprogramming with HPP3, the shudder went away. It comes back after a week or so of driving, and I just use the HPP3 again, and it goes away again! That's Ok, I am reprogramming with LS1 edit tonight, and I am going to turn off misfire detection, and see if that is indeed the culprit.
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From: Casselberry, FL.
Re: REALLY ROUGH CONVERTOR SHUTTER I told Ed Wright what was going on with the car and he told me many of the tuner shops that use his service have him raise the lockup mph to help eliminate the shudder problem. I tried this and it helped some but did not eliminate the problem completely.
Jim
Jim
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From: Barbaria
Re: REALLY ROUGH CONVERTOR SHUTTER I have misfire codes from the cam, but I clear them with the scanmaster. I haven't noticed whether or not that had any affect on the shutter. I'm also going to try and raise the idle speed and see if that does anything. I drive the car everyday so I can't take the convertor out and send it to PI. The problem really isn't all that serious, but it is very annoying. Lrims cruising around are around 10. Thanks for the replies.
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From: Casselberry, FL.
Re: REALLY ROUGH CONVERTOR SHUTTER Hey Jim. Let us know what you find. As I stated I have been chasing this problem since January. I set my IAC around 30-32 in gear at normal operating temp. When I had Ed do my programming he removed the misfire codes and I am still getting the shudder.
E-mail me if you have any ideas or questions about things to try because I have tried many different things.
Jim
E-mail me if you have any ideas or questions about things to try because I have tried many different things.
Jim
Re: REALLY ROUGH CONVERTOR SHUTTER I had more converter issues with my LTRIMs at +10 to +15 range then when they were negative. You might bring them down and see if that helps a bit.
