a4 launch
07-07-2006, 03:17 PM
#21
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ok so i tried reving it at 3500 rpm's today in netural and then threw it into drive like you said......omg its sooo fast now, i took off like a beaten red headed step child! so i took it to the track and roasted a c6 vette with no prob. i did it time and time again and my kill list keeps getting longer and longer! thanks guys for the input.....but the only thing is that after i did this technique about 6 times i have this loud clunking noise from the bottom of the car????? also some red fluid seems to spray out from under my car when i rev it....looks cool though, mabye i need naws for my car.
07-07-2006, 03:26 PM
#22
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oh and also what i found out is that you can put the car into reverse and go about 5 mph and then throw it into drive.....sick dude burnouts!!!!!!
07-11-2006, 12:40 AM
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i got my best time flashing my converter, but i really haven't taken the time to try different stall speeds to see hoe it does. i might to out friday and see if i can find a stall speed that does better.
also i would do sick burnout in my probe by going as fast as i could in reveres then shifting to nuetral and reving to redline the into gear. but that was when i was dumb.
also i would do sick burnout in my probe by going as fast as i could in reveres then shifting to nuetral and reving to redline the into gear. but that was when i was dumb.
07-11-2006, 08:37 AM
#31
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When you flash the converter (launch from idle) you are using your suspension's anti-squat to the fullest. When you stall it up with your foot on the brake, you are pre-loading the car and it isn't going to launch as well.
07-11-2006, 01:01 PM
#32
I get a better launch preloading the car as opposed to flashing it from idle. Another member from here was flashing it from idle and he couldn't get the car into the 11s (Procharger car). I told him to footbrake it and he got an 11.7 and he still has more in the car. 
07-11-2006, 01:27 PM
#34
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I always have the best results when I put it in reverse, brake stall to 2000 rpm's, launch backwards, flip off the guy I'm racing in the other lane (while shouting something about Brian Spilners school of driving) and then spin the car around and switch to OD.
Or just put it in D, brake stall it a few hundred rpm's just to slightly preload the drivetrain (less stress on the rearend) and mash the gas pedal to the floor.
Either or
Or just put it in D, brake stall it a few hundred rpm's just to slightly preload the drivetrain (less stress on the rearend) and mash the gas pedal to the floor.
Either or
07-11-2006, 03:56 PM
#36
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i have a pro yank 3600 and can only foot brake to about 1800-2000 rpms. with this setup, i've only been to the track once, but it seems that the harder i launch the car the slower it goes. '99 formula 3.23s built a4 nittos and 335rwhp
07-11-2006, 04:23 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by chris93266
i have a pro yank 3600 and can only foot brake to about 1800-2000 rpms. with this setup, i've only been to the track once, but it seems that the harder i launch the car the slower it goes. '99 formula 3.23s built a4 nittos and 335rwhp
07-11-2006, 05:17 PM
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i pump the brakes then hold as hard as they will go and then get tire spin at around 2000rpm. it is a PRO YANK 3600 EXTREME 4L60E/4L65E converter. i also have a 4l65e not a 60. it is a nitrous converter, so i was told that it won't stall up high and will be tight like this on motor. is this true or bs?
258mm, Posi Lock-Up Clutch w/Kevlar Linings, 6 bolt mounting lugs , lightweight billet cover, 3600 stall, 2.30 STR
258mm, Posi Lock-Up Clutch w/Kevlar Linings, 6 bolt mounting lugs , lightweight billet cover, 3600 stall, 2.30 STR
Last edited by chris93266; 07-11-2006 at 05:33 PM.