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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 08:14 AM
  #21  
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The mechanic told me the trans. has to be removed and that is what the book shows they charge.
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by chevygirl
The mechanic told me the trans. has to be removed and that is what the book shows they charge.
Six hours sounds pretty close to a C5 Corvette converter chanegout. I thought F-bodies were quite a bit less than that. I could be wrong though. Good luck to you. I guess that, personally, I would have moved on to a different shop. I have heard of converters being out of balance and causing issues. I read somewhere that engines are sometimes balanced at the factory with the converter in place, and, if removed, and not reinstalled in the exact same mounting relationship, vibration can occur. Whethr that would seem like a rough idle or not, I'm not sure. I'd give someone else a crack at the car. I'd find a high performance shop. I think the first place has had their shot. Sometimes a fresh approach, and fresh minds, does wonders. Good luck to you!
Ed
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 01:14 PM
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They are actually the 4th place I have taken it to. These guys say they want to make sure I am completely happy with their work. We do not have alot to choose from here in memphis. We do not have high performance shops. Everything is stock so I would think a certifed GM tech would be able to figure it out. I appreciate all of your help. I will let you know what I find out.
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 01:28 PM
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Everything is stock?! How many miles on the car?
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 01:50 PM
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Default hes not too far off

mitchell on deman shows 4.8 hours

so hes not too far off

most people charge around 250 -300 to swap a converter

but here in oklahoma city you can get the trans overhauled

for around 500-700 in labor depending where yah go
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 05:18 PM
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Everything is stock except for cat and exhaust.
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 06:00 PM
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If it's running rough at idle, what's the A/F look like? Maybe you have a bad 02 sensor. Try the simple things first. Pulling the converter should be the last thing you do.
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 10:59 PM
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i'm with roarin_8. ever try cleaning off your MAF and IAC sensor? they may simply be dirty. maybe you need new plugs and wires. or, you could try seafoaming your car i didn't know you were nearly bone stock. now i bet you're in need of simple maintenance.
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 07:55 AM
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All of the items named have been replaced. Every ignition part and all sensors. We swapped things out trying to fix it but never got fixed. I know it should be the last option. No one seems to know what is wrong with it.
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 09:26 AM
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Seems like it's time to take out the converter, could get an aftermarket one while you are in there
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 10:09 AM
  #31  
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mite be a cam or a tune problem
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 10:17 AM
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She's switched the whole motor, cam included I'm guessing. Asked her about tune (A/F) in post 27. Seems like this is the last option.
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 11:15 AM
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It is not the motor. Last 2 new engines do the same thing. What do you mean by tune? I am wanting to keep everything stock because I didn't want any excuses on why it would not run right. The car may be missing is all but why is it missing and why is it not doing it all the time. It feels like no power and the car won't go when cruising along and giving it gas gradually-just shakes and vibrates.
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 11:20 AM
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Change the converter since it gives you problems driving as well, thought it was just at idle, that may be the culprit.
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 07:17 PM
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Okay I have a question. I drove it in drive instead of overdrive and got it up to 60. It did not seem to vibrate as bad or not at all. It starts shaking between 45 and up close to 50 in overdrive. Do you think my tcc solenoid might not be working?
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