4l80e yoke question
Why cant I just cut some off the end if its too long?
If you take the tail housing off and find 4 or five inches of spline then either a groove for an o ring or a solid non splined section, put the yoke on and you'll see it doesn't engage much. It will hang out of the tail housing too much as well.
I don't think it can be made to work properly, but that might just be my opinion.
Originally Posted by 8a8mfh
Well it will only work if your trans has splines up to the rear bearing. Find out by putting the yoke in the trans, if it goes in up to the seal then it's ok, if not pull the tail housing off.
If you take the tail housing off and find 4 or five inches of spline then either a groove for an o ring or a solid non splined section, put the yoke on and you'll see it doesn't engage much. It will hang out of the tail housing too much as well.
I don't think it can be made to work properly, but that might just be my opinion.
If you take the tail housing off and find 4 or five inches of spline then either a groove for an o ring or a solid non splined section, put the yoke on and you'll see it doesn't engage much. It will hang out of the tail housing too much as well.
I don't think it can be made to work properly, but that might just be my opinion.
My output shaft has 5in of spline or more then an Oring. There is no gap between the two. What is an acceptable length the yoke should hang out of the tail housing?
Here is a pic I took the other day of the tailshaft..
Last edited by Z'mnypit; Nov 14, 2006 at 06:41 AM.
Originally Posted by 8a8mfh
That picture is the tailshaft with the splines up to the rear bearing, it will work with the yoke you described earlier. I was guessing on length.
Slid the yoke in and it hangs out of the tail housing about an inch. If its to much am I going to be able to cut it to fit? I have fitted the driveshaft to it yet so It may not even be out to far..
8a8mfh is correct. I rebuilt a T-400 using the output shaft from a 4L80, changed to a mechanical speedo gear for use in a 49 chevy truck. The shaft is splined 3.25 inches with an o-ring 1/4 inch further up the shaft. You need to order an old style T-400 slip yoke with 1.88 seal diameter and it will be counterbored (no splines) the first 1.75 inches. This extra machining allows the yoke to slip over the o-ring, reducing the possiblity of leakage when parked. FYI, 1310 u-joints are 3 7/32nds cap to cap with 1.060 cap diameter. 1330 and 1350 are 3 5/8ths cap to cap with either 1.060, 1.125 or 1.188 cap diameter. Larger cap diameters are found on 1350 joints, which don't appear on any production vehicles I've seen.
I've seen vans with output shafts like the picture above, they come from the factory with yokes that have splines to the end. I guess you could cut it off if the yoke was too long, but it could be the output thats too long, or both. I wouldn't cut the output.
Just be sure that when you put the driveshaft in the yoke has at least 1" to move in and out before it bottoms out.
Just be sure that when you put the driveshaft in the yoke has at least 1" to move in and out before it bottoms out.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote
10 Reasons the LS7 Is GM's Most Extreme Naturally Aspirated V8 Engine Ever
Verdad Gallardo
Originally Posted by 8a8mfh
I've seen vans with output shafts like the picture above, they come from the factory with yokes that have splines to the end. I guess you could cut it off if the yoke was too long, but it could be the output thats too long, or both. I wouldn't cut the output.
Just be sure that when you put the driveshaft in the yoke has at least 1" to move in and out before it bottoms out.
Just be sure that when you put the driveshaft in the yoke has at least 1" to move in and out before it bottoms out.
Originally Posted by calongo_SS
Who knew getting the right yoke could be so damn complicated.
Nothing yet, still trying to get everything figured out. Probably won't start ordering things until after the holidays.
Speed eng. has one but it seems a little pricey, and who knows if it will work seeing all the difereences in this thread.
Speed eng. has one but it seems a little pricey, and who knows if it will work seeing all the difereences in this thread.
Ok finally got to finsish everything up this weekend. The yoke I posted a link to did work, but I have to cut 3/4in off so it wouls slide in far enough so the u joint would clear the yoke on the rear. But other then that its in a running.
Yeah, its not bottomed out. The driveshaft wouldnt fit past the yoke on the rear without trimming it down. If I had to guess is 3/4-1in away from being bottomed out. I actually wouldve been fine with 1/2in or less but decided to go a little more. I havent had the first issue with it.
Last edited by Z'mnypit; Jan 29, 2008 at 10:47 AM.
Yeah, its not bottomed out. The driveshaft wouldnt fit past the yoke on the rear without trimming it down. If I had to guess is 3/4-1in away from being bottomed out. I actually wouldve been fine with 1/2in or less but decided to go a little more. I havent had the first issue with it.
i need some help with mine...my transmission has a bolt on yoke in the back of it now...can i get some driveshaft "u" bolts and use that stock output with stock driveshaft? or do i need to get the slip yoke and install it?
