Why Should You Not Use Synthetic Fluid In A 4L60E?
#61
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Well, GM doesn't even offer actual Dex III anymore. They do sell Manual transmission fluid, 88861800. (Dex III). But we still do quite a few older trucks with 4l60's and they get Dex VI.
if you have a newer car/truck with a 6L80/90. Well, it's a 80k mile time bomb when the pump eats itself. Or get the TCM tuned to not lock up the TCC in 1st through 4th and it'll last forever.
Then if your new GM takes LVHP fluid, prepare to pay alot. A flush for converter shutter is about $400. The fluid is $293 for 20 qts at our dealership. Not including the 1.5 hr labor
if you have a newer car/truck with a 6L80/90. Well, it's a 80k mile time bomb when the pump eats itself. Or get the TCM tuned to not lock up the TCC in 1st through 4th and it'll last forever.
Then if your new GM takes LVHP fluid, prepare to pay alot. A flush for converter shutter is about $400. The fluid is $293 for 20 qts at our dealership. Not including the 1.5 hr labor
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SAPPER (08-13-2022)
#64
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Well, GM doesn't even offer actual Dex III anymore. They do sell Manual transmission fluid, 88861800. (Dex III). But we still do quite a few older trucks with 4l60's and they get Dex VI.
if you have a newer car/truck with a 6L80/90. Well, it's a 80k mile time bomb when the pump eats itself. Or get the TCM tuned to not lock up the TCC in 1st through 4th and it'll last forever.
Then if your new GM takes LVHP fluid, prepare to pay alot. A flush for converter shutter is about $400. The fluid is $293 for 20 qts at our dealership. Not including the 1.5 hr labor
if you have a newer car/truck with a 6L80/90. Well, it's a 80k mile time bomb when the pump eats itself. Or get the TCM tuned to not lock up the TCC in 1st through 4th and it'll last forever.
Then if your new GM takes LVHP fluid, prepare to pay alot. A flush for converter shutter is about $400. The fluid is $293 for 20 qts at our dealership. Not including the 1.5 hr labor
If someone took say a LS1 Camaro SS with a 4L60E in for a transmission fluid change at a GM dealer these days what transmission fluid would the GM dealer use?
Dex VI?
#66
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My GM District Parts Rep (Parts Manager for the North East: Maine through Virginia) says his Dealerships can get quarts of Dexron III-H
ACDelco #10-9240.
ACDelco #10-9240.
Last edited by vorteciroc; 08-13-2022 at 08:08 PM.
#67
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Also...
There is enough Dex/ Merc (III/ V) available to probably fill the Great Lakes.
As well as a stupid amount of OIl Brands to choose from.
There is enough Dex/ Merc (III/ V) available to probably fill the Great Lakes.
As well as a stupid amount of OIl Brands to choose from.
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#68
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Honestly, That would depend on the tech or person doing it. 95% chance it's getting Dex VI. The other 5% would be if an oldschool guy like me would see if its still the original trans. If not, it gets Dex VI. if it is, it gets the 88861800 fluid that is twice the price of Dex VI. We also flush using 2 gallons. If you want a filter change, well then, thats gets a whole lot more $$$$. We use a good flush machine that hooks to cooler lines, bad goes out, good goes in.
#69
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Honestly, That would depend on the tech or person doing it. 95% chance it's getting Dex VI. The other 5% would be if an oldschool guy like me would see if its still the original trans. If not, it gets Dex VI. if it is, it gets the 88861800 fluid that is twice the price of Dex VI. We also flush using 2 gallons. If you want a filter change, well then, thats gets a whole lot more $$$$. We use a good flush machine that hooks to cooler lines, bad goes out, good goes in.
#70
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Honestly, That would depend on the tech or person doing it. 95% chance it's getting Dex VI. The other 5% would be if an oldschool guy like me would see if its still the original trans. If not, it gets Dex VI. if it is, it gets the 88861800 fluid that is twice the price of Dex VI. We also flush using 2 gallons. If you want a filter change, well then, thats gets a whole lot more $$$$. We use a good flush machine that hooks to cooler lines, bad goes out, good goes in.
#71
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Actually I believe our fixed OP of a flush is $199. That includes labor, fluid and a BG additive. Not a fan of the additives, but it's part of the deal.
Also The OE Dex III I was mistaken on the price. It's less than Dex VI by a dollar. I was thinking of the new LVHP stuff. We've been using it like water so that price was in my head. it's a few dollars more per qt.
GM has a fluid, BOT manual trans fluid for cars like the Cruze. It's $46/qt. LOL
Also The OE Dex III I was mistaken on the price. It's less than Dex VI by a dollar. I was thinking of the new LVHP stuff. We've been using it like water so that price was in my head. it's a few dollars more per qt.
GM has a fluid, BOT manual trans fluid for cars like the Cruze. It's $46/qt. LOL
#72
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I switched my 120,000 mile TA over to Dex 6 when I swapped over to a FTI 3800 stall
With a mail order tune she shifted as strong as ever and never got hot even when hot lapping in the 1/4.
I made over 800 passes and the fluid still looked and smelled fresh when I sold the car.
With a mail order tune she shifted as strong as ever and never got hot even when hot lapping in the 1/4.
I made over 800 passes and the fluid still looked and smelled fresh when I sold the car.
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99 Black Bird T/A (08-15-2022)
#73
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$400+ for a flush and fill? Wow. We're talking 4L60e here. Drain and fill with 5 qts. of Dex VI + filter = $50 plus labor if you're paying for it, so $150-175. I'm more a believer in regular drain and fill versus flushes and my tranny at 198k speaks for itself; still working perfectly.
Plus it's great when someone wants to change to a different brand of fluid. I used 3 gal to swap out fluid in my Allison to Amsoil.
But also, being an old schooler, I don't recommend changing fluid in and old trans. that dirt is what makes those worn out plates grab. Some disagree. But I've seen cases where we do a flush or filter drain and fill. Sure enough, not long after, the trans starts slipping.
#74
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Much of what you say is certainly true, but it just highlights the old flush vs. drain and fill debate.
On our old Montana (165k at the time), the tranny was beginning to act oddly, and the ATF was black goo. We decided to do the flush, not being sure if the vehicle would move once put in gear. When the fluid came back red, we put it in gear, backed it out of the garage, and it went down the road perfectly. The last I heard from the subsequent owner, it was still going strong at 225k.
On our old Montana (165k at the time), the tranny was beginning to act oddly, and the ATF was black goo. We decided to do the flush, not being sure if the vehicle would move once put in gear. When the fluid came back red, we put it in gear, backed it out of the garage, and it went down the road perfectly. The last I heard from the subsequent owner, it was still going strong at 225k.
#75
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There are Pros and Cons to both methods.
As well as a ton of Opinions about them.
I personally will not perform a Complete Flush on an Operating unit.
(I used to... but the backwards flow direction often pushes Debris to unwanted places).
I ONLY Complete Flushes on Units, right before I Disassemble for a Rebuild.
As well as a ton of Opinions about them.
I personally will not perform a Complete Flush on an Operating unit.
(I used to... but the backwards flow direction often pushes Debris to unwanted places).
I ONLY Complete Flushes on Units, right before I Disassemble for a Rebuild.
#76
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There are Pros and Cons to both methods.
As well as a ton of Opinions about them.
I personally will not perform a Complete Flush on an Operating unit.
(I used to... but the backwards flow direction often pushes Debris to unwanted places).
I ONLY Complete Flushes on Units, right before I Disassemble for a Rebuild.
As well as a ton of Opinions about them.
I personally will not perform a Complete Flush on an Operating unit.
(I used to... but the backwards flow direction often pushes Debris to unwanted places).
I ONLY Complete Flushes on Units, right before I Disassemble for a Rebuild.
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bbond105 (08-16-2022)
#77
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Cleans all the Parts.
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Makes the individual Parts cleaning time very short!
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Makes the individual Parts cleaning time very short!
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#78
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Yes and No.
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At least in my experience, I am familiar with these Units to the point that it makes no difference.
I find it to be quicker to find wear and tear on the Parts with Clean ATF on them (after the Flush)...
Rather than looking at the Filthy black Oil covered Parts, you would normally take out.
I don't really need to see where the Debris actually was in the Unit.
By now, I can tell what type of Material it was, and find the Parts that it came from.
All debris from the Unit will end up in a Filter in the Flush Machine.
I can examine it at that point.
My biggest issue with the Flush Machines... is that they ALL Back-Flush.
Not something I want to do with a good Unit.
However, I do like that the Flush Machine will clean the TC, the Cooler, and Circuits in the Unit, that a Drain, Filter, and Fill Service will not.
I like a Drain, Filter, and Fill Service because the Filter/ Pick-up is one of the most crucial components of the Unit (and much be in good shape for the Unit to Perform, and last).
Pros and Cons to both.
(I could speak on this topic to ridiculous ends, so I am stopping here for everyone's sanity).
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#79
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When I was at GM still...
I designed a Flush Machine that I actually liked...
I never got to make one (GM likes their $$$ to much for unsanctioned Experiments).
I also campaigned for a new Service that would include a complete Flush... and a Filter Service.
But it was time consuming and expensive.
Steps:
-1 Remove oil pan, and filter, dump fluid... dispose of consumables.
-2 Install high flow screened Pick-up (no Filter) with a Plastic Oil Pan that has multiple drain Bolts.
-3 Perform Flush.
-4 Drain Fluid from Plastic Oil Pan using drain Bolts in to a CLEAN Jug.
-5 Remove Plastic Oil Pan and high flow screened Pick-up.
-6 Install new Filter.
-7 Install original Oil Pan with New Gasket.
-8 Set ATF level with the drained CLEAN ATF in the Clean Jug.
I designed a Flush Machine that I actually liked...
I never got to make one (GM likes their $$$ to much for unsanctioned Experiments).
I also campaigned for a new Service that would include a complete Flush... and a Filter Service.
But it was time consuming and expensive.
Steps:
-1 Remove oil pan, and filter, dump fluid... dispose of consumables.
-2 Install high flow screened Pick-up (no Filter) with a Plastic Oil Pan that has multiple drain Bolts.
-3 Perform Flush.
-4 Drain Fluid from Plastic Oil Pan using drain Bolts in to a CLEAN Jug.
-5 Remove Plastic Oil Pan and high flow screened Pick-up.
-6 Install new Filter.
-7 Install original Oil Pan with New Gasket.
-8 Set ATF level with the drained CLEAN ATF in the Clean Jug.
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bbond105 (08-17-2022)