I got and installed my performabuilt stage 2 4L60E this last weekend, and it works great. i got their 3500 stall also, and the combo is awesome. The shifts are quick and crisp, but not neck snapping. it downshifts quick too when i get on it. the car seems to get up and go faster, but i was having some problems with my last converter or my stock trans (dont know what the culprit was). also, the converter is "tighter" than my old one. when i give the car a little gas in 4th, the rpms rise as they should. the other one seemed to fluctuate a few hundred RPMS.

i ran into a few problems when installing the trans, but everything was my fault. one of the bell housing bolts striped when i was removing it. i dunno who decided to use a torx head bolt, but they strip kinda easy. i had to drill out the bolt, which took me about an extra hour to do. the other thing was that i reused the pan gasket when i put my derale pan on instead to the shallow one that was included. needless to say it leaked when fluid was added. got a new gasket and everything worked fine. theres also something up with my dipstick not going in all the way, but it locks, so i really dont care for now.

the only other problem im having now is the one piece drive shaft is making a clunking noise sometimes when i shift manually or sometimes when its in D on the streets. my friend suggested it could be the u-joints, but when i had the car in the air yesterday, i tried wiggling the DS with the car in park and there was ZERO movement from it. i also dont remember it making the noise this much before. if its gonna be normal, i dont care. but if somethings wrong, then what is it?

my previous best time at the track is 11.7 @ 118 on the bottle, and i dynoed at 444hp. hopefully ill have some new numbers soon

 

Sounds good ! I am not sure about the driveshaft noise but I will tell you with the use of the superservo upshifts and downshifts may tend to be a little more noticeable so that could possibly be the clunky feeling or sound drive train shock , Just a possibility , If thats it theres no problem

 

Oh sorry you had a problem with those hex bolts ,if you ever need to do it again let me know I know of and easier way.
please post your thoughts when you have had more time to test and drive and post them here and in the feedback section would be good to .
thanks

 

well, i ended up getting the same bolt at the auto parts store with a 15mm hex head. i put it on the lower right hand side, so its out od the way from the converter. the bell housing surrounds it enough that the converter i nowhere near it (not like it would have been anyways)

 

Well if you ever need to remove one from and old trans again , heat it with a small propane torch before you goto break it loose and they will come right out

 

How can your dipstick NOT go in all the way but it still locks..

You sure your tube/grommet is seated properly in the trans?

 

well, it goes in all the way but it has to be forced in, not just dropped in.

i believe the tube is seated properly. i can check it again this weekend, but it looked ok to me before. plus the tube is bolted to the back of the engine, so i dont know how it could be in wrong?

 

You could have pinched/squished the tube as well.. I did that to mine and it takes several stabbs at it to get it to go down all the way.. Try flipping the dip stick in the other way.. Mine goes in easier one way then the other.

 

tried it, turning the dipstick doesnt help. anyway i try to put the dipstick in it has to be held down while i lock it. when i first got it in, it would slip up and not be in. for some reason it holds now, but if i just unlocked it, it would show about 1in or less of the metal

 

Hope you get an accurate level on the dipstick with it doing that. Yea, I would just double check your grommet area and make sure its not all binded up down there.. Anyhow, congradulations on the install. Now go beat the **** out of it and give us some feedback!!! lol