What causes A4's to break?
I say power/torque are #1 killers. I have mine set to shift @ 6000 from 1-2 and 5900 2-3 and 3-4. Raised rev limiter to 6400 b/c tranny couldn't keep up. Spray a 125 shot through the shifts= two 11.7x runs and a bad tranny. It was stock and I wanted to build it so I had my fun.........BTW tranny had 110,000 miles on it. Busted the planetaries.....
GM only rates them at 6000 rpm to...
As for tyhe 4l60 weak point, it's really the planataries, they really can't take anythign over 500 rwhp. Once you get to that point, the planataries themselves will break. The clutches, all that stuff sure you can build the hell out of them to withstand more then the actual transmission internals are good for.
IMO, you have a car that's running 10.9 or faster, you should have already bought an aftermarket tranny (th400, th350, powerglide) Or you can be playing the t56 exchange program, and clutch of the month game)
it's also important to note that they may not be going WOT much. you're only going to touch those 6000+ shift points when you go WOT. if you never race your car and never go over 6000 rpm's, it's not going to matter.
we're not talking about a stalled tranny with no cooler here. few people on these boards are stupid enough to do that, so that isn't the issue here.
proof of this is that there are plenty of people making 400rwhp with a forced induction setup and stock shift points and their tranny lasts a while. talk to the FI guys. a cammed car with raised shift points and a lesser rwhp rating will kill a 4L60E faster than an FI guy making more rwhp and stock shift points.
I'm not trying to start a pissing match here....just let the original poster know that numerous people have done what he is asking about with plenty of success. For everyone who says that RPM's kill the trannies, someone can prove them wrong. For everyone that says power kills the trannies, someone can prove them wrong. And I suppose someone could even disprove the heat theory although I doubt that. And I talked to one of my buddies with cammed/stalled/stock tranny and he just turned over 11K miles since the install and 100+ passes at the track. That's proof enough for me since I plan to go with his exact setup.
Last edited by 99Hawk262; Dec 7, 2006 at 06:29 PM.
about your theory on nitrous being torque related, i disagree with that. the reason why i still say RPM's is because when you spray, the RPM's shoot up very quickly and hang up very high.
i think it's more a combination of high torque over high RPM's and i think torque kills 4L60E's more often than RPM's, but that's because there's 50 times more 4L60E's running around out there with stock shift points.
all i'm saying is when push comes to shove, a 400rwhp car shifting at 6,800 rpm's will break A LOT faster than a 400rwhp car shifting at 6,000 rpm's. in fact, i'd be willing to bet a 400rwhp car shifting at 6.800 rpm's will break faster than a 450rwhp car shifting at 6,000 rpm's.
but nothing is an exact science.

i've been doing a lot of thinking lately. most people say a 4L60E won't last past 400rwhp...but yet there are a few out there that do.
these are the things i have noticed:
- stock f-bodies rarely break a 4L60E
- bolt-on cars rarely ever break a 4L60E
- cammed cars break 4L60E's all the time
now, A4's generally cannot reach 400rwhp with a bolt-on car. they reach 400rwhp once they add a cam. most people then start seeing trans problems. i got to thinking, and what if the power isn't really the biggest problem here? maybe the biggest problem is once people put in cams, they change their shift points and rev limiter? what if the biggest reason why 4L60E's break is cammed cars generally move their shifts from 6000rpm's stock to 6800+rpms?
people blame the failing 4L60E's on:
- heat
- power
what if RPM's are worse than the horsepower level? what if RPM's are the REAL serial killer? maybe these stock 4L60E's putting down 450rwhp are lasting because the shift points haven't been changed.
no one can argue that heat and power ARE factors of failing 4L60E's, but what if RPM's are the biggest problem of all? what if we can preserve our 4L60E's simply by keeping our shift points stock?
i just thought this could spark some interesting conversation.
Last edited by 99Hawk262; Dec 7, 2006 at 09:21 PM.
. But with the successes I've seen firsthand, I think I'll take that gamble. The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
. But with the successes I've seen firsthand, I think I'll take that gamble.again, research. hardly ANYONE blows their stock 4L60E's with full bolt-on's. the damage doesn't occur til they cam it. it's all about shift points.
and RPM/heat kinda go hand in hand. saying RPM causes the problem and saying heat didnt. is kinda an oximoron.
and even TQ strain. that is heat also. a force pressing agasint another something creates heat. esp in regard to puting the petal to the metal every time you drive from a stoplight. in the end...
i would have to say TQ/hp would be the biggest killer. you can help precent heat and dissipate it alot eaiser than you can make your tranny able to withstand a hard launch.
what transmission would last longer. a car that drove at 5000 rpm all day but never did any hard launches at all. a car that did nothing but repeat hard launches over and over if only halfway through first gear. the car driving 5k rpm will be running alot hotter. but i gurantee you the car doing short quick hard launches will tear to pieces alot sooner.
so Torque/traction is the killer haha
Vig3600 stall
B&M Trans Cooler
Custom Grind Cam(231/237 .589/.595 112 LSA)
Hooker Full Exhaust
Ls6 Intake
Mac Filter
Lid
New Tune coming soon.
Vig3600 stall
B&M Trans Cooler
Custom Grind Cam(231/237 .589/.595 112 LSA)
Hooker Full Exhaust
Ls6 Intake
Mac Filter
Lid
New Tune coming soon.
The internal parts will not hold up long.. maybe a week at the most of a couple hard launches. I just had my 4L60E rebuilt to take a pretty good beating but im just gonna sale it and prob go with TH350 or something of that nature. My tranny has the 5 pinion rear planetary ( controls 1 and 2nd gear) also has the beast sunshell, also has the nitrous torque converter 3500, TCI pro clutches, deep pan, all the works but im just gonna sale it after dumping all that money in it.
The internal parts will not hold up long.. maybe a week at the most of a couple hard launches.WHAT???? Where do you possibly get info to tell him that his trans will "last maybe a week" in a cam only car?
I've been cam only for nearly two years shifting at 6400rpm & beating the **** out of it every time I drive it and my trans is fine. To the origninal poster: Nobody can predict how long your trans will last, every car/trans is different and driving habits/current condition of the trans play a big role in how long it will last. What I can tell you is that anyone with a stock 4l60e trans in their car should be saving up for a built unit if you plan on adding considerable power over stock, regardless of how you make that additional power.






