recommended stall for 3.23s
01-07-2007, 10:36 PM
#1
recommended stall for 3.23s i'm familiar with the heavy trucks' stall requirements per weight, but i'm wondering if a 2500 stall would be enough to get a trans am with 3.23s moving. or should i go with a 3k?
i'm purchasing an F body within the week, so i may as well start shopping now for waker-uppers.
i'm purchasing an F body within the week, so i may as well start shopping now for waker-uppers.
01-08-2007, 05:29 AM
#4
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I'm new to the LS1 Automatic game also. The car I'm buying is a A4 and has a 3550 in it.Pulls pretty good even without being tuned. Also just happened to see your name. Not to many people named Carlton
We are prob the only 2 on the board
We are prob the only 2 on the board 
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01-08-2007, 10:13 AM
#8
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3500+. I had a 3800 and most people didn't even know had a stall. Perfect for a DD IMO. I've since moved to a 4400 and love it. It is a little looser, to the point that I think some people could be annoyed with it. If you can find someone in your area with a stall that you can drive/ride in their car, you should. Anything less than a 3000 would be completely useless.
As an FYI, I picked up from .7-.9 tenths with a 3800 stall (with traction, about half a second on street tires). So you're making the right decision with a stall, not many mods will give you nearly a second off your ET.
Also, if you're thinking about doing a cam in the future, you should think about what you want from a cam and match that to a converter. If you get a lower stall now and cam your car later, you'll end up needing to restall your converter to get the most out of it.
As an FYI, I picked up from .7-.9 tenths with a 3800 stall (with traction, about half a second on street tires). So you're making the right decision with a stall, not many mods will give you nearly a second off your ET.
Also, if you're thinking about doing a cam in the future, you should think about what you want from a cam and match that to a converter. If you get a lower stall now and cam your car later, you'll end up needing to restall your converter to get the most out of it.
01-08-2007, 10:28 AM
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To my thinking stall speed goes with the motor build
and STR goes with gears/tires. The stall speed you
want to put you at least onto the bottom end of the
torque plateau. The STR, you want more of for low
gear ratios to get the same grunt overall. But a high
STR also fades faster so you might have a good jerk
followed by a wimp-out if you go with too high a STR
and too low a stall. A softer STR and a stall that's
about peak torque RPM will further flatten out the
rear wheel torque (multiplying against the rising TQ
slope) while a higher stall can make for a peakier low
end torque, higher at low than midband.
For cars you don't have quite the same interests.
If the motor is low mods I'd say a 3000-3500. With
a good sized cam & exhaust up to 4000, strip-only
might go higher. Street tires stick with a lower STR
(2.5 or below, I like 2.0 or so but many call that too
"loose" (I see it more as "elastic"). You have to think
about what you want the car to drive like, do you
want a hard hitting 1/4 tire burner or do you want
more "normal" low-end driving (creep, cruise) and not
a high amount of RPM slip around town?
and STR goes with gears/tires. The stall speed you
want to put you at least onto the bottom end of the
torque plateau. The STR, you want more of for low
gear ratios to get the same grunt overall. But a high
STR also fades faster so you might have a good jerk
followed by a wimp-out if you go with too high a STR
and too low a stall. A softer STR and a stall that's
about peak torque RPM will further flatten out the
rear wheel torque (multiplying against the rising TQ
slope) while a higher stall can make for a peakier low
end torque, higher at low than midband.
For cars you don't have quite the same interests.
If the motor is low mods I'd say a 3000-3500. With
a good sized cam & exhaust up to 4000, strip-only
might go higher. Street tires stick with a lower STR
(2.5 or below, I like 2.0 or so but many call that too
"loose" (I see it more as "elastic"). You have to think
about what you want the car to drive like, do you
want a hard hitting 1/4 tire burner or do you want
more "normal" low-end driving (creep, cruise) and not
a high amount of RPM slip around town?
BOSS APPROVED!
01-08-2007, 06:36 PM
#13
Originally Posted by CJDZ24_Z28
I'm new to the LS1 Automatic game also. The car I'm buying is a A4 and has a 3550 in it.Pulls pretty good even without being tuned. Also just happened to see your name. Not to many people named Carlton We are prob the only 2 on the board
We are prob the only 2 on the boardyea there arent very many of us. i'm the only white guy named carlton i know. and my brother's name is terrence!! haha. what are the odds?
01-12-2007, 11:26 PM
#17
ya bro go atleast 3500 i have stock with nitto's tci 3600 and i went from 13.6 at 102 to 12.91 at 105 so def the best mod bro and i drive everyday its not nearly as bad as some people might say. i could not imagine driving another auto with out one.
