which stall for street/strip and road trip's?
01-17-2007, 06:54 PM
#21
Originally Posted by 12secSS
Depends, do you race on the streets? Do you run slicks at the track? a lower STR would work for situations where traction is a limitation (ie: street tires at the track with ok prep), but a higher STR works better if you are using slicks. Around town driving will be better with a higher STR, but you can easily overpower traction limited surfaces. Lower STR has a looser (slipping the clutch) feel around town, but is more forgiving on traction limited surfaces. One other thing, as the STR goes up, the efficiency on the top end goes down ... vice versa with a lower stall = better efficiency on the top end. The Vig3600 would be a wise choice, although they tend to stall higher then comparable competitors products. This is because of how the stall rating is conducted. Anyway, it will possibly be around a 4000 true stall, flash should be around 3600. Good luck!
01-18-2007, 12:36 PM
#23
Originally Posted by 12secSS
Depends, do you race on the streets? Do you run slicks at the track? a lower STR would work for situations where traction is a limitation (ie: street tires at the track with ok prep), but a higher STR works better if you are using slicks. Around town driving will be better with a higher STR, but you can easily overpower traction limited surfaces. Lower STR has a looser (slipping the clutch) feel around town, but is more forgiving on traction limited surfaces. One other thing, as the STR goes up, the efficiency on the top end goes down ... vice versa with a lower stall = better efficiency on the top end. The Vig3600 would be a wise choice, although they tend to stall higher then comparable competitors products. This is because of how the stall rating is conducted. Anyway, it will possibly be around a 4000 true stall, flash should be around 3600. Good luck!
I do not race on the street at all, and I have drag radials for when I go to the track. I only use them on the track (to save them from wearing out too fast).
So you think 3600 will be okay for me? I will be doing a cam later this year, but it won't be too much stall for now? I see the track every week with small bolt-ons and drive 30-40 miles a day.
01-18-2007, 02:50 PM
#24
Originally Posted by keliente
Thanks for the info.
I do not race on the street at all, and I have drag radials for when I go to the track. I only use them on the track (to save them from wearing out too fast).
So you think 3600 will be okay for me? I will be doing a cam later this year, but it won't be too much stall for now? I see the track every week with small bolt-ons and drive 30-40 miles a day.
I do not race on the street at all, and I have drag radials for when I go to the track. I only use them on the track (to save them from wearing out too fast).
So you think 3600 will be okay for me? I will be doing a cam later this year, but it won't be too much stall for now? I see the track every week with small bolt-ons and drive 30-40 miles a day.
j/k
01-18-2007, 10:58 PM
#26
Originally Posted by 12secSS
Most stock internals guys like the 4000-4400 stall range, with PI it would be ~3600-~4000, so you should be ok. Mind you, it will take a little getting used to. Depending on the size of the cam (I guesstimate low-mid 23x), it should work out very well for you. If it's a slightly bigger cam, I would go for more stall. Also depends on the gear ratio you plan to use (what is it currently)?
I have the stock 3.23s in there now. I'd like to ride them out as long as possible. I know a cam is dependant on a stall, but it doesn't go the other way around does it? i.e. if I did the 3600 stall now (and d/rs from the track) it would be fine with just small bolt ons, correct? Forgive the newb questions I am new to the wonderful, consistent world of the A4.
01-19-2007, 09:15 AM
#27
Originally Posted by keliente
I will most likely stay in the 230 duration range (think : trak cam)
I have the stock 3.23s in there now. I'd like to ride them out as long as possible. I know a cam is dependant on a stall, but it doesn't go the other way around does it? i.e. if I did the 3600 stall now (and d/rs from the track) it would be fine with just small bolt ons, correct? Forgive the newb questions I am new to the wonderful, consistent world of the A4.
I have the stock 3.23s in there now. I'd like to ride them out as long as possible. I know a cam is dependant on a stall, but it doesn't go the other way around does it? i.e. if I did the 3600 stall now (and d/rs from the track) it would be fine with just small bolt ons, correct? Forgive the newb questions I am new to the wonderful, consistent world of the A4.
01-19-2007, 09:33 AM
#28
11 Second Club
Originally Posted by keliente
I will most likely stay in the 230 duration range (think : trak cam)
Originally Posted by keliente
I have the stock 3.23s in there now. I'd like to ride them out as long as possible. I know a cam is dependant on a stall, but it doesn't go the other way around does it? i.e. if I did the 3600 stall now (and d/rs from the track) it would be fine with just small bolt ons, correct? Forgive the newb questions I am new to the wonderful, consistent world of the A4.
For the cam you are looking at anything in the 3500-4400 stall range will work fine. And even with just bolt-ons these cars love 3500-4000 stalls! I run mid 12's on my 3500 and I could easily have gone bigger. A lot of people drive SS4000 or vig 3600 on stock motors and love them.
3500-3800 work very well for mostly street cars and cars that spray a lot of N20. 4000-4400 work very well with NA cars that spend a lot of time at a track.
The Vig3200 is really a 3600 stall and would be a great match with the trak cam and still have a ton of street manners as well as being a great converter to spray. If you want to stay conservative then this is the converter for you.
The Vig3600 is really a 4000 stall that will be a little looser on the street but can easily be gotten used to. If you're not afraid of a little looseness and want every last tenth at the track then this is the converter you want. You can spray a 150 shot on this converter as well once the new cam is in and the shiftpoints are raised a bit.
Good luck.
Last edited by darrensls1; 01-19-2007 at 09:41 AM.
01-19-2007, 09:51 AM
#29
11 Second Club
Originally Posted by Omega Doom
I was wondering which convertor or actually how big of a stall can I use but still drive from like Dallas,TX to california or to florida(regardless of gas mileage) and will perform like champ without any side effect's?
good luck.
01-19-2007, 10:00 AM
#30
Originally Posted by darrensls1
trak cam will be a very nice street/strip cam.
It does not go the other way around. The basic idea is to match the stall with the powerband (which in turn is affected by the cam). So the bigger the cam then the bigger the stall should be. But keep in mind the LS1 even with the stock cam makes great power up top so a big stall as the only mod will make a marked improvement.
For the cam you are looking at anything in the 3500-4400 stall range will work fine. And even with just bolt-ons these cars love 3500-4000 stalls! I run mid 12's on my 3500 and I could easily have gone bigger. A lot of people drive SS4000 or vig 3600 on stock motors and love them.
3500-3800 work very well for mostly street cars and cars that spray a lot of N20. 4000-4400 work very well with NA cars that spend a lot of time at a track.
The Vig3200 is really a 3600 stall and would be a great match with the trak cam and still have a ton of street manners as well as being a great converter to spray. If you want to stay conservative then this is the converter for you.
The Vig3600 is really a 4000 stall that will be a little looser on the street but can easily be gotten used to. If you're not afraid of a little looseness and want every last tenth at the track then this is the converter you want. You can spray a 150 shot on this converter as well once the new cam is in and the shiftpoints are raised a bit.
Good luck.
It does not go the other way around. The basic idea is to match the stall with the powerband (which in turn is affected by the cam). So the bigger the cam then the bigger the stall should be. But keep in mind the LS1 even with the stock cam makes great power up top so a big stall as the only mod will make a marked improvement.
For the cam you are looking at anything in the 3500-4400 stall range will work fine. And even with just bolt-ons these cars love 3500-4000 stalls! I run mid 12's on my 3500 and I could easily have gone bigger. A lot of people drive SS4000 or vig 3600 on stock motors and love them.
3500-3800 work very well for mostly street cars and cars that spray a lot of N20. 4000-4400 work very well with NA cars that spend a lot of time at a track.
The Vig3200 is really a 3600 stall and would be a great match with the trak cam and still have a ton of street manners as well as being a great converter to spray. If you want to stay conservative then this is the converter for you.
The Vig3600 is really a 4000 stall that will be a little looser on the street but can easily be gotten used to. If you're not afraid of a little looseness and want every last tenth at the track then this is the converter you want. You can spray a 150 shot on this converter as well once the new cam is in and the shiftpoints are raised a bit.
Good luck.
01-19-2007, 01:13 PM
#31
Thanks for your input guys, I really appreciate it. My biggest fear was getting a stall and thinking, "gee I should have gone bigger". I think I am going to do the vig 3600 now for sure. Things like this can be hard to gauge, because one persons idea of daily driveable isn't another's. For instance people are like, "oh yeah a spec 5 clutch is nothing, I drive it every day 30 miles in city traffic..." then I get into my 93 bird with a spec 3 and I am dying before I get around the corner 
It's too bad you couldn't test drive modded cars to see what suits your personal idea of driveable.
It's too bad you couldn't test drive modded cars to see what suits your personal idea of driveable.
01-19-2007, 01:58 PM
#32
11 Second Club
Originally Posted by keliente
Thanks for your input guys, I really appreciate it. My biggest fear was getting a stall and thinking, "gee I should have gone bigger". I think I am going to do the vig 3600 now for sure. Things like this can be hard to gauge, because one persons idea of daily driveable isn't another's. For instance people are like, "oh yeah a spec 5 clutch is nothing, I drive it every day 30 miles in city traffic..." then I get into my 93 bird with a spec 3 and I am dying before I get around the corner
It's too bad you couldn't test drive modded cars to see what suits your personal idea of driveable.
It's too bad you couldn't test drive modded cars to see what suits your personal idea of driveable.
Just make sure you give it a few weeks. It takes a little getting used to a stall the first time. But once you do you'll probably forget it's even there.............Until you punch it
Good luck.
01-19-2007, 04:49 PM
#34
Originally Posted by darrensls1
I would highly recommend a 3500-3800 stall. They drive surprisingly well in the city and lockup fine on the highway. Just get the $50 B & M 24K tranny cooler and you'll have no worries. I hot lap my 3500 stall at the track as much as 5 runs back to back to back and that is after a 40 minute ride to the track. With that 24K cooler in there it handles that abuse all day and then some.
good luck.
good luck.
