Stupid 4L60e or is it my Stall?
02-14-2007, 05:26 PM
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Stupid 4L60e or is it my Stall? I have a 94' z28 A4. The motor is about 100HP over stock. And the trany was rebuilt (how well is unknown) last year in July 06'. The shop was kinda shifty 
and they are about 50 miles away from me.
Today (Ironically enough) when I was on my way to pick up my 2 new Nitto 275/40/17 555-R-II's (my BFG KDWS's are dead), while cruising down the highway at 85 my second gear stopped working
. There was a lull in traffic so I had slowed to 65 then they started moving so I punched it, causing it to down shift (into 2nd)... No bang, no clunk, just stopped putting power to the wheels effectively (It revved to the limiter) so I backed of and let it ease into 3rd (no problems there). About 5 miles later I lost all power to the wheels 
.
The motor is running fine, and it seems to shift through the gears (can't tell no torque, no gear clunk when force hits the drive shaft, no movement, but (park and neutral work). When I rev in any gear it does nothing.
I checked the fluid (thinking it was low) while it was idling and it reads overfull by like 4-6 inches on the dip stick. I know it was at the right level when I last put fluid in (5 or so months ago) and have not added any.
My first thought is the stall-converter (stock). I did not have the money at the time I had the trany done so I did not get a new one. And the shop was dicking with me about the trans at the time, and its warranty. I called my favorite mechanic and he said that "If I got a stall he could swap it out for 350 labor", but that he "could not diagnose it" and that "it could be the pump in the trany".
Is there a way to diagnose this, without pulling it apart? Does the hight fluid level mean something?
I am also curious what stall to go with, I have stock gears (am going to get 3:73's this year), and about 340RWHP NA and about 430RWHP on spray (not yet working, I was waiting for tire). The car is my daily driver but I take it to the track and street races 3-6 times a month. I'm trying not to take it down to the shop that rebuilt it because:
They suck...
It is 50 Miles away and that a decent tow bill.
If it's not my trany they will *** rape me.
If it is my trany they will come up with a reason it's not under warranty.
I was told by a friend that 3000 might be right for me, but by another that 2800 was good since it's a daily driver... Is the stall gonna kill my millage or hurt drive-ability? Any specific brand or price ranges?
Any help would be great. I have it parked in front of my parents house and I'll have to move it in 2 week's one way or another.
Jonathan Mitchell
and they are about 50 miles away from me. Today (Ironically enough) when I was on my way to pick up my 2 new Nitto 275/40/17 555-R-II's (my BFG KDWS's are dead), while cruising down the highway at 85 my second gear stopped working
. There was a lull in traffic so I had slowed to 65 then they started moving so I punched it, causing it to down shift (into 2nd)... No bang, no clunk, just stopped putting power to the wheels effectively (It revved to the limiter) so I backed of and let it ease into 3rd (no problems there). About 5 miles later I lost all power to the wheels . The motor is running fine, and it seems to shift through the gears (can't tell no torque, no gear clunk when force hits the drive shaft, no movement, but (park and neutral work). When I rev in any gear it does nothing.
I checked the fluid (thinking it was low) while it was idling and it reads overfull by like 4-6 inches on the dip stick. I know it was at the right level when I last put fluid in (5 or so months ago) and have not added any.
My first thought is the stall-converter (stock). I did not have the money at the time I had the trany done so I did not get a new one. And the shop was dicking with me about the trans at the time, and its warranty. I called my favorite mechanic and he said that "If I got a stall he could swap it out for 350 labor", but that he "could not diagnose it" and that "it could be the pump in the trany".
Is there a way to diagnose this, without pulling it apart? Does the hight fluid level mean something?
I am also curious what stall to go with, I have stock gears (am going to get 3:73's this year), and about 340RWHP NA and about 430RWHP on spray (not yet working, I was waiting for tire). The car is my daily driver but I take it to the track and street races 3-6 times a month. I'm trying not to take it down to the shop that rebuilt it because:
They suck...
It is 50 Miles away and that a decent tow bill.
If it's not my trany they will *** rape me.
If it is my trany they will come up with a reason it's not under warranty.
I was told by a friend that 3000 might be right for me, but by another that 2800 was good since it's a daily driver... Is the stall gonna kill my millage or hurt drive-ability? Any specific brand or price ranges?
Any help would be great. I have it parked in front of my parents house and I'll have to move it in 2 week's one way or another.
Jonathan Mitchell
02-14-2007, 07:06 PM
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I used a half inch wrench and disconnected the line that goes to the bottom of my Radiator till it the nut/retainer was free on the pipe and pulled the line out. The radiator dripped a few drops so i started the car I ran it for 5 min no spray no drips no nothing I revved it a bit just to make sure. So does that mean it's my pump?
I had the trans rebuilt by a crap shop but I think they just gave me a junkyard trany. It should be under warranty so I'll call them tomorrow when they are open. I'll ask them to put a new one in and if they need a shop for a trany I'll reference them you and your prices (offering to pay the difference for your Stage1 4L60E) look really good and my rebuilt one was 900. As I want to put in a shift kit anyway. I have the "B&M Shift Improver Kit" and a "Transgo Ringless .500 Boost Valve". Anything else or should i go with a Transgo kit?
What kind of shipping or core do you guys charge/rebate. Or none at all.
I had the trans rebuilt by a crap shop but I think they just gave me a junkyard trany. It should be under warranty so I'll call them tomorrow when they are open. I'll ask them to put a new one in and if they need a shop for a trany I'll reference them you and your prices (offering to pay the difference for your Stage1 4L60E) look really good and my rebuilt one was 900. As I want to put in a shift kit anyway. I have the "B&M Shift Improver Kit" and a "Transgo Ringless .500 Boost Valve". Anything else or should i go with a Transgo kit?
What kind of shipping or core do you guys charge/rebate. Or none at all.
02-14-2007, 08:00 PM
#4
Yes your pump is bad ,
shipping is included in the listed price
we do not require a core nor charge for one all prices are out right.
As and LS1 tech member you also get and additional 50 dollar discount
And the shift kit you have sounds fine ,
And sorry your having trouble with the trans you have I hope they take care of you
shipping is included in the listed price
we do not require a core nor charge for one all prices are out right.
As and LS1 tech member you also get and additional 50 dollar discount
And the shift kit you have sounds fine ,
And sorry your having trouble with the trans you have I hope they take care of you
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02-14-2007, 08:10 PM
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Thank you for all the help... If they give me issues then I'll get one of yours. I have a a buddy that has one and he has had no complaints he has the stage 2 kit on his turbo LS1.
