BoutitZ28,
If I were in your shoes, I'd give Mike a chance to repair your converter. If he won't then give me a call, I can repair your Yank or sell you a new TCI converter. As far as doing some back to back Yank vs TCI testing that would be interesting. Kristi actually did some of that for us a few months ago. You might e-mail her for the results. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Chris S.,
What kind of 60' and 1/8 mile times are you getting out of yours now? We sent one of our new Competition 4000 converters (Part # 242933)to Kristi a few weeks ago. She got a couple of passes on it last Weds. and ran a 1.61 sixty foot in her and John's heavy weight '02.

Take Care,
Kevin

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Kevin Winstead:
<strong>BoutitZ28,
I can repair your Yank or sell you a new TCI converter.

Kevin</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Are you saying you can fix a Yank ST converter that locks up OK, but has the chattering under light load problem? If you can, why can't Yank? What would TCI charge and what would you change in it? Would there be any guaranty that it wouldn't chatter when I got it back?

 

This is some good info. How about some independent testing of these comparable converters? Just gather up all of the converters you can for the 4L60E LS1 tranny's and go to town. Which one will come out on top? I think everyone would like to see.

 

2xLS1,
We can rebuild the Yank and I'll assure you that you won't have any problems with clutch chatter. We typical replace the front cover and piston on their ST converters. As far as the exact price, it depends on what (if anything) is damaged inside the converter. Our basic rebuild price is $150. That includes new bearings, hub and piston.
Let me know if we can help you.
Take Care,
Kevin

 

Thanks for the reply, Kevin. Does changing those parts alter the performance of the converter any, or just address the lock up clutch?

 

I find it interesting that Yank doesnt sell their ST3500 converter line at all to the ls1 market anymore. Is this still the case or are they back on the market?
I ran a TP4400 converter and liked it alot. I also ran a TCI 3500 converter in my old 94LT1 and liked it a lot as well.
I am not sure why a 6 lug Yank was compared against the 3 lug TCI.
I think both companies manufacture excellent products.
Cheers,
Chris

 

It's not that Yank CAN'T repair their converters, it's that in many cases, they WON'T, at least not under "warranty."

TCI is currently testing 4400 RPM converters, We have one in our 2002 SS, but on the install, we goofed up and damaged the trans pump. It's repaired now and if it ever quits raining, we'll get some results posted for you. The converter works like a charm. Lockup feels great, no noise or vibration. It's MEAN from a roll!!!

As far as a TCI 3500 vs Yank ST3500 performance comparison, I'll do my best, without having the timeslips in front of me:

My 2002 Trans Am convertible had cat-back, 3.73's and Yank ST3500. That's pretty much it. My best run was as follows:
60 ft: 1.72
1/8 mi: 7.97
1/8 MPH: 82
1/4 mi: 12.600
1/4 MPH: 107
This was in ideal weather... 55-60 degrees, dry air, cloudy, more or less sea level track. It was on ET streets.

Our 2002 SS has full exhaust/cutout, 3.73's, and TCI SF3500. We never had it on the 1/4 mi with the 3500 converter, but our 1/8 mi times are as follows:
60 ft: 1.64
1/8 mi: 7.82
1/8 MPH: 87
This was in humid 80 degree weather at a track on top of a mountain, also on ET Streets.

Never weighed either car and I don't mess with weather stations. I know it's not the most accurate comparison in the world, but that's what I have.

If you need or want more info, my e-mail addy is in my profile.

<small>[ September 17, 2002, 01:01 PM: Message edited by: Kristi ]</small>

 

Dan:

The Vig 3600 and YTP 4400 are too big for the superstrokers (ci>400). Most of the guys running Yanks are using converters that would stall 3800 - 4000 behind a H&C motor.

 

My Yank 4400 stalled to like 5100 behind my ARE 422ci motor.

A lot of time Yank stuff is 10% tighter on the end which is why I went and got a Yank, destalled my PI3600(4300) to a 3200, and sold it.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Ragtop 99:

[QUOTE]Dan, most of the top guys switched to Yank from Vig 3600s before they had big cube motors. The Vig 3600 was king until the YTP4400 came along, and after enough results to got out there, people started switching. I think the Vig 3600 60's well, but the top end dies. On the the other hand it feels tighter and and is less expensive.[/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I hear ya Joel. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Thats why i'm kinda curious what some of these cars with larger cube motors can do with the Vig 3600. Someone out there must be curious enough to do the swap. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

I've done bussiness and have spoken with both Kevin Winstead and Mike Sienna. First off, they have both been nothing less than professional with me. I have tested a TCI SSF 3500 and am currently testing their SSF 3800. I consistantly get 1.6 60 ft times with it and have no problems with either. I believe it's like everything else, if you want the TCI convetrers to be built exactly like the Yanks then expect to pay the big dollars. I enjoy telling LS1 guy's at the track that I'm running a TCI knowing that most of them cannot afford too expensive of a converter because it give them an option that does not include waiting for income tax time. A Z06 is faster than a C5, but it costs a little more. Folks, it all boils down to that old saying, "different strokes for different folks. Lets just enjoy the fact that we have the ability to be able to choose. Just my 02

topfig
MGySgt USMC

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Trevor D:
[QUOTE]There are other factors that will affect the 60' ability of the converter, but one thing I KNOW for sure is that it wasn't a problem with driver error. Kristi has been drag racing since she was 16, and she's pulled down a solid $10,000 in race winnings in just one racing season. She's raced everything from 14-second LT1 Camaros to 10-second Chevy II wagons, so I think she knows what she's doing. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I never said she didn't know how to drive, I said she wasn't launching her ST3500 right. And the reason I said that is because ALOT of people don't know how.

Well I guess I should just go ahead and ask.

How were you launching your ST3500 Kristi?

Best results: Brake it to 3k at the line and let her rip.

Convertible or not, she should've had much better 60ft's than 1.72

 

I had a 1.67 60 ft on 245-50-16 Nittos with the ST-3500 and a lid as the only other mods. I get mid 1.60's easy now with a catback and pulley.

 

Well, surprisingly enough, I was competent enough to try different launches until I found what mine liked best. I was consistently slower from 60 ft to the end of the track if I loaded mine up to anything above 2500 RPM. Depending on track conditions, I launched anywhere from 1500 to 2500 RPM. IN MY EXPERIENCE, I got the best results on a nice sticky track by launching from 1500 rpm and letting it flash. Had it not been a YEAR ago in a car I no longer even OWN, I would post timeslips with various launch RPMs, weather conditions, etc, but when the car went, everything but the best timeslip for that car went too.

You mention your E.T. "when you hook." I find it surprising that you ever have tractions problems on ET Streets, even with the ST3500. I made a LOT of passes on Nitto DR's when I knew the track would hold them. My car was quicker on Nitto's due to the decreased rolling resistance. However, even on what I would call a crappy track surface, I NEVER had traction problems on ET Streets and that's on 16" ET Streets vs. your 15's (less sidewall).

Maybe my car just didn't have the bottom end that yours did and that explains my lack of traction problems, your better short times, AND why my converter liked to be launched differently from yours... In other words maybe (gasp) my car was different than yours! <img border="0" alt="[angel]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_angel.gif" />

But really, this bickering has nothing to do with the topic of this thread so if you would like to continue to criticize me, big man, just shoot me an e-mail and have at it. I've said it before, I've been insulted by a lot better than you and lived to tell about it so if it makes you feel better, tell the world what a terrible driver I am and how you could do it all better than me. Just start a new thread or something because this thread isn't about me and I was completely through posting on it until you brought me back into it. Sheesh.

<small>[ September 17, 2002, 02:29 PM: Message edited by: Kristi ]</small>

 

Kristi's ST 3500 results were right in line with mine. I was bolt-on, full weight (including the spare too) 3.23s, nittos and cut 1.71 - 1.73 in good weather and got to 1.68 in great weather. A car that was 300lbs lighter should cut mid to low 1.6s.

Only difference was I got my best 60' hammering it from just off idle, stalling to 800 - 900 rpm. However for brackets, my car was very consistent launching at 2000 rpm and cutting 1.75s.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Kevin Winstead:
<strong>Chris S.,
What kind of 60' and 1/8 mile times are you getting out of yours now? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Kevin, Just had one chance to get to the track with the slicks and the 'verter. After playing with tire pressure some and launch RPM I was getting consistant 1.71 60's and 8.0 eighth miles. My car is pretty mild - cold air, lid, 85mm MAF, manifolds and y-pipe, but I have some timing and other tuning issues to resolve - and 3450 pounds. I just changed the suspension on the car and hope to get some good weather to try to wring some 1.65s out of the car in the next few weeks.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Chris Spiess:
<strong>TCI's converters work just fine and they have a bunch of customers who believe they do as well. When I was looking at converters, let's see a Yank for $900-$1000 or a TCI for $500. Will the yank perform better? Well maybe, but how much? $400-$500 better? I doubt it. I see the difference as the possibility that I may finally get headers on the car this winter.....I went from 13.2 to 13.0 with my TCI 3500 on street tries and 12.7 on slicks. Five tenths for my mild car for $500 seems like a pretty good value.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No flames intended, but.....

2/10ths and you're happy? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" /> (Can't compare times with slicks, unless the 13.2 run was on them, you probably would have picked up the same on the slicks with the stock converter, IMO) Point being, you spent $500 on a lesser quality converter. (See pics <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> )Ok, you gained .2 for $500 versus the .7-.8 that the Yanks have shown to gain (SY3500). You saved $400 for headers (I assume Macs, for that price.) You gained .2 with the converter, and maybe .2 with the Macs, so you will have spent $900 and gained .4, and you're happy? <img border="0" alt="[Banging Head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" /> My point is, if you had spent $750 on a Yank SY3500, you would have gained more, if not double, what you gained with your TCI converter. Converter swaps are expensive (~$250), you have a $750 installed TCI worth .2ths when you could have had a SY3500 worth .7-.8 installed for $1000. $250 for .5 is a good value, IMO.

Lastly, see the pics, try to look at them objectively, and answer one question: Would you put an engine in your car with rusty, rough, shoddy, used, poorly crafted, unproven internals, when you were supposed to get a new product? Would you put rusty steel wheels on your car and be happy that you saved money over the Fiskes you wanted? NO! You would not.

You get what you pay for, as has been stated earlier, look at the top 50 list, it speaks for itself, IMO......


<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

<small>[ September 17, 2002, 09:35 PM: Message edited by: SPANKY LS1 ]</small>

 

Hey spankey relax man he said he has some issues to work out and as for my TCI conveter i gained 5 tenths for 449.00 thats less than 100.00 a tenth to me thats a good buy.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Kristi:
<strong>
My 2002 Trans Am had cat-back, 3.73's and Yank ST3500. That's pretty much it. My best run was as follows:
60 ft: 1.72
1/8 mi: 7.97
1/8 MPH: 82
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Either you spun like hell or you didn't know how to launch your ST3500. I have absolutely no problem pulling 1.60-1.62 60ft's consistantly as long as I hook. My car is realatively stock as far as HP mods.

5000 miles on my ST and no problems at all.

I dropped .7 tenths in the 1/8 with ST3500 and ProStars.

I didn't know Yank quit selling the ST3500. What was the deal with that?

Rick

<small>[ September 17, 2002, 12:28 PM: Message edited by: NASSty01 ]</small>

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by NASSty01:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Kristi:
<strong>
My 2002 Trans Am had cat-back, 3.73's and Yank ST3500. That's pretty much it. My best run was as follows:
60 ft: 1.72
1/8 mi: 7.97
1/8 MPH: 82
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Either you spun like hell or you didn't know how to launch your ST3500. I have absolutely no problem pulling 1.60-1.62 60ft's consistantly as long as I hook. My car is realatively stock as far as HP mods.

5000 miles on my ST and no problems at all.

I didn't know Yank quit selling the ST3500. What was the deal with that?

Rick</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Rick,

Please detail your launch technique.

I have a friend who has a ST3500 (3.23 gears, bolt-on car) and the best 60 to date is a 1.71. That was with a DA of-453, race weight of 3350 and on BFG drags radials. The car has run a best of 12.0x with 113mph trap speeds so the car had the power to cut good 60s. I know the tires are good because I cut 1.65 60’ on them.

Thanks

John