DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

24v, have you 60" foots changed any, I know what your saying, I'm gonna have a hell of a time hooking without some good tire.

24v

Yes, I am 1 tenth slower with this converter in the 60'.

DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

Wow, from spinning I assume? That's got me a little worried. I still have 3.23's as well.


Performabuilt if you read this do you mind looking up the STR of my converter? I think the 4000 stall will end up being one of the more popular units you sell to many H/C LS1's.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

I will see what I can find out from our converter guy and let you know

DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

Cool Beans

24v

No, not from spinning. This converter is tighter than the one I had before, so it does not flash as hard.

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

the 3200 is 2 sizes higher than i want lmao. i wanted the lowest possible stall which I was told would be a 2800 so I figured 3200 will suit me perfect

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Our converters are tight and I make that very clear they do exactly what they are specified at no more no less , I have noted many of our competitors converters as mentioned stall higher than advertised . Ours do not if you order a 3000 stall you will get a 3000 stall , After all they are called precision shift converters.

24v

Frank, would you explain to me how I can accurately measure my "precision" converter. From my experience with this converter, it does not brake stall, or flash, to 3500 rpms. Maybe I am testing it wrong?

DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

Tainted do your self a favor, if you get one of their stalls, get atleast a 3500. They are very tight, heck I'd recommend the 4000 on your car, as knowing what I know now I would even consider the 4500 for myself OR I would of gotten the 4000 and told them I had 1 gear range higher, like 3.73's that way it will be slightly looser. Like I said it's tighter than my old 3500, the 4000 drives like a 3200. If I had to guess the STR on my converter I would bet it's almost 2.7.

I've driven a few different converters, The TCI rates there's at 2.5, but honestly it feels a little lower than that, like 2.4ish barely.

I am almost 100% sure that there is no way the car is hooking with Nitto's at my power levels or any other type of DR. At a minimum a 16" w/ ET streets.

Like Performabuilt said it seems the converter will stall to the rpm it's built for. For example even though it's tighter when I'm on an incline and ther car is in drive at a stop I'll roll back, the TCI would almost always hold, Yet the TCI was looser once you got that strattor spinning. I do have a little more shift extension as well so I know the converter behaves bigger. I'll see at the track, I know if I loose some MPH and can hook similar to before that the STR is very high, however, my seat of the pants feeling tells me the efficiency is right up there even with the big STR, plus 24V's Dyno #'s prove a much tighter tolerance at lockup.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Unfortnatly there is no really accurate way to test the stall flash or otherwise without a transbrake,
The problem with brake stall test is that the brakes will let loose well before actual stall speed is reached , You have to bear in mind that when you get close to stall your also geting close to 1 to 1 on the converter and your asking a couple small pad or shoes to hold several 100 ft lbs of torque which is not going to happen ,

Then theres WOT launch method , Problem with this is two fold wheel spin and the fact the car starts moving which again will make the stall or called flash stall appear much lower if the car can hook up that it is or if the car spins then the whole measurement is completely out the door,

The most accurate method short of a trans brake I have found is to put the trans in limp mode 3rd gear and take off WOT this still isnt very acurate but seems to be the best by far, However the 3-4 clutch set even with the best possible frictions etc and At max line as it would be in limp mode potentially could be damaged during this test because they were not intended nor are the capable of holding that level or torque for any exstended period of time.

Now if your are lucky enough to have the ability to start in second gear you could launch in second and hopefully avoid wheel spin , But it still would likley be off by several hundred RPM also But could give you a better idea.

Im sorry none of these are really good answers, Stall speed is a very complicated issue , There are so many variables for instance if your peak torque is reached at lets say 3500 rpm and your stall is a 3500 your stall speed will be very different feeling than lets same the same set up on a car not reaching its peak till 4000 rpm , Turbos/Nos etc again change the effect completly again.

The stall of our converters are mathmatically calculated based on formulas that take in such Information as rear ratio, weight of vehical,estimated or actual if a dyno sheet is available HP an Torque curves and Engine displacement using formulas provided by sonnax who is our source of the parts used to build our converters.

I hope this information helps some though its probably not the simple answer you were looking for.

Frank at PerformaBuilt

Zger

iTrader: (18)

One way to test the stall of the converter is to put the car in 2nd gear, hold the brakes and stab the gas. It can't be good for the trans since it will build heat pretty quickly, but it will show the true stall of the converter. The car usually will not overpower the brakes in 2nd like it will in first. It would probably work for flashing the converter too, but I never really tried it. Using this method, I tested a vig 3600 converter. In my friends cam'd full weight GTO, it stalled right at 3800, in my Camaro it was just a hair over 3600. It was the same converter and we used autotap to verify rpms, not just the factory tach. His GTO makes more hp than my car and it weighs more. Hope that helps.