4L80E Full manual valve body???
#21
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Originally Posted by Gary Z
I’m not an auto-trans expert but this idea needs clarification. An important advantage of a partially electronic valve body is that the hydraulics are simplified by the inclusion of electrical valves (solenoids) rather than mechanical valves. Reverting to the old-fashioned type of valve body seems so impractical to me as to be essentially impossible. If, by fully manual valve body, you mean “stand-alone manual controller” then it makes sense. I think TCI makes such a controller for the 4L60E and 4L80E. This, I assume, is an independent (of the PCM) electronic controller that can simulate a fully manual valve body. Forward or reverse is probably optional.
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
its a B&M quicksilver
you can put in ratchet mode if you want to manual shift or just drop it in D as seen here:
![](http://www.richmondperformancemusclecars.com/photos/mm/images/18813/500x375.aspx)
you can put in ratchet mode if you want to manual shift or just drop it in D as seen here:
#24
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only one part of the front of the shifter bracketry had to be modified to physically get under the m6 console.. this part
everything else you do would be the same making any auto shifter work
this pic here was taken prior to the tab with the two holes in it directly ahead of the shifter handle being cut and bent down some
everything else you do would be the same making any auto shifter work
this pic here was taken prior to the tab with the two holes in it directly ahead of the shifter handle being cut and bent down some
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
I have heard of problems downshifting. One guy could only down shift above 30 MPH and the other guy couldn't don shift unless the car was stopped. Also pne of them would bang really hard into gear when stopped.
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Last edited by JMBLOWNWS6; 07-08-2007 at 10:38 AM.
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
I dont think that the Rossler Tbrake is for a manual vb.
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#27
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I have ZERO problems with mine when it comes to shifting! Who ever did those tranny's doesnt know what they are doing. Mine works flawless. The only problem I had was the guy who built it wired the lockup wrong internally. So I have to fix that with my current build.
Basicly I have a manual car with no clutch! ![Devil](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_devil.gif)
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#30
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Here is the deal guys.
Indeed Carl Rossler manufactures the 4L80E trans brake. Currently it cannot be used in conjunction with a Manual Valve Body because in order to achieve braking the manual valve must be in the 3rd gear position... and yes he has decided to carve out some R&D time this fall and winter to solve the puzzle.
So, with a brake you need to let the controller do it's thing.
As far as a manual valve body, there are a few solutions. So no big deal there either. If you go Manual then you need no controller... but you will not have the added advantage of spooling on a brake or max effort launches.
Building the 80E either way will offer distinct advantages.
g
Indeed Carl Rossler manufactures the 4L80E trans brake. Currently it cannot be used in conjunction with a Manual Valve Body because in order to achieve braking the manual valve must be in the 3rd gear position... and yes he has decided to carve out some R&D time this fall and winter to solve the puzzle.
So, with a brake you need to let the controller do it's thing.
As far as a manual valve body, there are a few solutions. So no big deal there either. If you go Manual then you need no controller... but you will not have the added advantage of spooling on a brake or max effort launches.
Building the 80E either way will offer distinct advantages.
g
#31
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Just subscribing to the thread. I am trying to decide between a TH400, built 60e, or built 80e. I was hoping for reverse manual valve body with transbrake, although I can leave out the transbrake for now but I want to do this all the way so I only do this once.
Last edited by wizkid; 11-17-2007 at 11:55 AM.
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What shifter position do you use with the transbrake and automatic valve body?
I've got the GM technician's guide and thought I had figured out how to add a transbrake myself, but it seemed like it would only work with the shifter in manual 1st. I'd rather leave it in D or OD.
I'm unconvinced that a manual valve body is the way to go, surely with good programming the electronic automatic can be both an accurate racer and a smooth drive on the street - why spoil it?
James
I've got the GM technician's guide and thought I had figured out how to add a transbrake myself, but it seemed like it would only work with the shifter in manual 1st. I'd rather leave it in D or OD.
I'm unconvinced that a manual valve body is the way to go, surely with good programming the electronic automatic can be both an accurate racer and a smooth drive on the street - why spoil it?
James
#35
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What shifter position do you use with the transbrake and automatic valve body?
I've got the GM technician's guide and thought I had figured out how to add a transbrake myself, but it seemed like it would only work with the shifter in manual 1st. I'd rather leave it in D or OD.
I'm unconvinced that a manual valve body is the way to go, surely with good programming the electronic automatic can be both an accurate racer and a smooth drive on the street - why spoil it?
James
I've got the GM technician's guide and thought I had figured out how to add a transbrake myself, but it seemed like it would only work with the shifter in manual 1st. I'd rather leave it in D or OD.
I'm unconvinced that a manual valve body is the way to go, surely with good programming the electronic automatic can be both an accurate racer and a smooth drive on the street - why spoil it?
James
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#37
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Yeah I hear ya! The problem is 2.5 hours at 3,500 rpm with a 3 speed can be awfully hard on your engine. The 400 seems like a logical choice, but if you have any gear in that thing it's going to be difficulot to drive it to the track without an overdrive.
g
g
#38
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I may have to deal without the transbrake for OD sake in a manual valve body. My car is not a daily driver, may not be considered a monthly driver even.
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My goal for the car is only 450 rwhp over the next few years, so I don't see why a transbrake is all that necessary since I am not shooting for the stars. I am at 400 rwhp now. I need a tune after I put on my Fast 90/90 intake and TB. I am hoping that gets me to the 450 mark with my heads and cam.
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#40
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it goes into 4th gear (overdrive) automatically provided i am in the location one click behind neutral. ratcheting down once gives 3 another is 2 and next is 1
lockup also happens automatically depending when and where i want it to happen in the ecm tuning (bs3 box)
the switches are replay(data logging), intercooler pump and fan override, and methanol purge
the 80 is beast.. period, i reccomend it to everyone.
with my 3.42 gear and short tire, i go in to overdrive (4th not third) at 135mph.. so im in OD for the better part of the second 8th and it just cruises like its not paying attention to the weight of the car or the tq i'm putting through it.
lockup also happens automatically depending when and where i want it to happen in the ecm tuning (bs3 box)
the switches are replay(data logging), intercooler pump and fan override, and methanol purge
the 80 is beast.. period, i reccomend it to everyone.
with my 3.42 gear and short tire, i go in to overdrive (4th not third) at 135mph.. so im in OD for the better part of the second 8th and it just cruises like its not paying attention to the weight of the car or the tq i'm putting through it.