SVT THIS

iTrader: (27)

I've decided to go with a 4L80e to replace my busted 4L60e. I like OD to much but don't want to have to buy a tranny ever again...
So, here's what I got so far
-4L80e tranny built locally to hold 900/900 rwhp/tq
-4L80e tranny mount (are there poly mounts out there, or do I just use OEM?)
-4L80e stall converter. I am going to go with Yank more than likely. I tried getting ahold of Precision Industries for a Vigilante quote but no response yet
-Transmission cross member w/ tq. arm relocation bracket-Does it make a difference between BMR and Yank? Can I use the stock torque arm for now with a Yank crossmember? I'll upgrade within a couple months, I just need to get the car running first. If I went with BMR, all I need are the stock tq arm bushings to get it to work w/ the stock tq arm, correct?
-TH400 slip yoke. I will be going with TCI unless someone else has a better recommendation. I won't know which one to get until I check the output shafts on the core my builder has. So I understand correctly, if I use the stock 4L60e driveshaft and the yoke is to long, I just have to cut it to fit, right?
-Speartech harness adapter
-I have a 1998 PCM. Do I need to get a 99+ model PCM in order for the tuner to be able to get everything to work properly, or can I still use the 1998 PCM? I will eventually go with a standalone controller from TCI to adjust it for the street, cruising, track, etc; but as I said earlier, I'm trying to do the bare minimum now to get it running again.
-I've heard to get the flexible dipstick from Summit to save a headache
-I already have a pretty big B&M transcooler, so I will just reuse it
-I am going to run a cover on it, the car is not lowered but I really don't feel like fixing something down the road due to a big speedbump or a steep driveway
-I don't feel like ghetto rigging the trans lines, so I'm going to go w/ braided S.S. lines
-Shifter---anything that doesn't look too stock or too track? I have a full CF interior and I think either end of the spectrum might be a little out of place.


I need to start buying this stuff next week so I can get everything going, any advice is much appreciated!
Mitchell

Z'mnypit

iTrader: (58)

Sounds like you got a really good starting point.

~ I just used a stock trans mount. I didnt want another poly after the one I had rattled everything.
~ It doenst make a difference between yank or BMR. I went with yank so I could have everything shipped together.
~ Yep the same with the Yank crossmember all you'll need is the bushings.
~ You can cut it, but you may also be able to find the correct yoke.
~ Im not 100% on the 98 PCM but I was told EFI live could do the 98's. At least that was posted up in my sticky.
~ Cant help you on the shifter since I stayed with the stocker.
~

RooRnZ28

iTrader: (14)

what is a cover? i'm also doing the 80e swap in the next week or so, so i'm in the same boat as you!

Z'mnypit

iTrader: (58)

The 4l80e is like a TH350 or 400, the bottom half of the bell housing comes off Leaving the converter exposed. Some run them, some dont.

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

I've decided to go with a 4L80e to replace my busted 4L60e. I like OD to much but don't want to have to buy a tranny ever again...
So, here's what I got so far
-4L80e tranny built locally to hold 900/900 rwhp/tq
-4L80e tranny mount (are there poly mounts out there, or do I just use OEM?)

Yes I have the poly mount on mine
-4L80e stall converter. I am going to go with Yank more than likely. I tried getting ahold of Precision Industries for a Vigilante quote but no response yet

Good choice. Tell them you want the body extended so you dont have to use a crank spacer
-Transmission cross member w/ tq. arm relocation bracket-Does it make a difference between BMR and Yank? Can I use the stock torque arm for now with a Yank crossmember? I'll upgrade within a couple months, I just need to get the car running first. If I went with BMR, all I need are the stock tq arm bushings to get it to work w/ the stock tq arm, correct?

Either way you will have to grind off the rivets. I have the yank. You will be ok for a bit but I wouldnt beat on it. The tunnel will have to be notched for a aftermarket K member. And the brake lines will have to be moved up. Easy to do. Just flip the plastic brackets that hold them.
-TH400 slip yoke. I will be going with TCI unless someone else has a better recommendation. I won't know which one to get until I check the output shafts on the core my builder has.So I understand correctly, if I use the stock 4L60e driveshaft and the yoke is to long, I just have to cut it to fit, right?

I used a TH400 yoke. No problems at all.
-Speartech harness adapter
-I have a 1998 PCM. Do I need to get a 99+ model PCM in order for the tuner to be able to get everything to work properly, or can I still use the 1998 PCM?

What software are they using to tune with? Im pretty sure HP tuners can do it.


I will eventually go with a standalone controller from TCI to adjust it for the street, cruising, track, etc; but as I said earlier, I'm trying to do the bare minimum now to get it running again.
-I've heard to get the flexible dipstick from Summit to save a headache

Yes the Lokar dipstick is badass


Just get the TCI flexplate and all six bolts will fit. Grind off the coating on the flywheel. As it can flake and cause the bolts to back out. I also reconmend getting ARP flywheel bots. You will need at least grade 10 converter bolts 6 of them. The bolts Yank send you are too short.
-I already have a pretty big B&M transcooler, so I will just reuse it

Thats what I did, But mine has the electric fan
-I am going to run a cover on it, the car is not lowered but I really don't feel like fixing something down the road due to a big speedbump or a steep driveway

I had to build a custom cover
-I don't feel like ghetto rigging the trans lines, so I'm going to go w/ braided S.S. lines
I used -6 lines and I have a early model 80 so I was able to adapt striaght to AN off the trans housing.
-Shifter---anything that doesn't look too stock or too track? I have a full CF interior and I think either end of the spectrum might be a little out of place.

I used the b&m reverse valve body shifter


I need to start buying this stuff next week so I can get everything going, any advice is much appreciated!
Mitchell

Good luck JMG

SVT THIS

iTrader: (27)

Hey JMBLOWNWS6, could you clarify this a bit:
Either way you will have to grind off the rivets. I have the yank. You will be ok for a bit but I wouldnt beat on it. The tunnel will have to be notched for a aftermarket K member. And the brake lines will have to be moved up. Easy to do. Just flip the plastic brackets that hold them.
What rivets need to be ground off? What will I be okay with for a bit? I do not have an aftermarket K member yet so I'll cross that bridge when I get there. As for the brake lines, this is news to me. How close is it?

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

The rubber bushing is riveted on the TQ mount. You will have to grind them off.



Look at your tunnel now vs mine. I dont have the factor feeds line anymore. I got rid of them. But you can see I had to tuck up the lines. Noticed you cant see the brake or the fuel lines.

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

Busted 4L60E, reuse transcooler, and a list of parts totaling, I'm guessing, around $3000. What doesn't belong on the list?
The OLD cooler, yes you can flush it, but why, just get a new one, it's one of the less expensive parts on the list there.