CONVERTER LOCKED OR NOT???
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From: Sierra Vista, AZ
CONVERTER LOCKED OR NOT??? What exactly do you mean by locking up the torque converter? How would this effect dyno numbers and or performance??? This is my first time running A4 and I feel clueless. I am using a Yank 3000 stall converter, dont remember which model, but if it goes bad I have read the other converter exposed threads and will let ya'll know. tm.
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From: Troy, AL
Re: CONVERTER LOCKED OR NOT??? Your converter has a clutch that locks the input and output sides of the converter during cruiseing. This lockup is controlled by the computer. This lowers the RPM and increases gas mileage. Some folks rig up a switch so that they can manually lock up their converter for dyno runs which yeild higher and more accurate numbers due to getting rid of the slippage and TQ multiplication of the converter. Some folks also like to lock the converter high in the RPM in third gear at the track. This sometimes yeilds slightly higher trap speeds and lower ETs. How much difference locking the converter makes on the dyno and at the track depends on how efficient the converter is when unlocked. Yank converters are extremely efficient and usually benefit about 10-15 RWHP on the dyno and very little to none at the track by locking the converter.
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From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Re: CONVERTER LOCKED OR NOT??? Thanks Col., you the man. Are there any precautions against locking the converter? Also, how do you wire the switch? What is the torque limit for the A4, or ballpark figure max power? tm.
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From: Troy, AL
Re: CONVERTER LOCKED OR NOT??? I absolutely would not lock the converter at anything other than high rpms. I'd lock it right at the point that TQ extention runs out (the point where the converter stops multiplying TQ.) Locking it lower in the RPM range will not only give worse results but will be harder on the clutch since the difference in input and output speeds will be greater.
Even if doing it correctly it's going to be tough on the clutch. I wouldn't do it with a paper type clutch. Only carbon ceramic or kevlar.
How to wire? I've never done it but I had the diagram at one point. I'll see if I can find it if no one else can describe. Anyone??? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Even if doing it correctly it's going to be tough on the clutch. I wouldn't do it with a paper type clutch. Only carbon ceramic or kevlar.
How to wire? I've never done it but I had the diagram at one point. I'll see if I can find it if no one else can describe. Anyone??? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Re: CONVERTER LOCKED OR NOT??? It's about as simple as you can get. Tap into the PCM wire that grounds the lockup converter (usually the Tan & Black wire coming out of the #42 pin on the RED connector from the PCM--at least, that's the correct wire for the 2000-02 models, not 100% sure about '98-99's). Run that tapped-in wire to a basic Radio Shack switch installed in your console. Run a second wire from the switch to the ground. When you flip the switch, the #42 wire will then be grounded, locking the converter.
I've read more than one cautionary post about lockup switches... I plan to use mine for highway use only, just to get a little better gas mileage when cruising. (Lockup = no converter slip, which = more efficient use of available power, so long as you don't abuse the lockup clutch.)
Hope this helps.
I've read more than one cautionary post about lockup switches... I plan to use mine for highway use only, just to get a little better gas mileage when cruising. (Lockup = no converter slip, which = more efficient use of available power, so long as you don't abuse the lockup clutch.)
Hope this helps.
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From: Troy, AL
Re: CONVERTER LOCKED OR NOT??? Locking it at cruise is fine. Your RPM differential between the input and output is minimal. When I mentioned not locking it at anything other than high RPM before I was talking about when at wide open throttle.
Yup, I'm still learning about these cars everyday. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />
Yup, I'm still learning about these cars everyday. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />
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From: Auburn, AL
Re: CONVERTER LOCKED OR NOT??? Assuming you're running a lock-up convertor, shouldn't the convertor lock itself up at cruise? I can see locking it up right as you hit 3rd gear at WOT at the track via a switch or programming, just make sure you have the shifter set so the car won't shift into overdrive.
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Verdad Gallardo Re: CONVERTER LOCKED OR NOT??? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> Assuming you're running a lock-up convertor, shouldn't the convertor lock itself up at cruise? </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes, you're right. It should. So the lockup switch shouldn't really make much of a difference. But isn't it cool to be able to just flip a switch & make sure it's locked up? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
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From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Re: CONVERTER LOCKED OR NOT??? Thanks to both Colonel and Killer, great info. Question on high speed vs. higher rpm. Killer you say you lock your up for cruising on the highway, low rpm yeah? Now, will locking it low rpm, high speed such as long road trips cause damage? I have a Yank 3000stall, unsure which model it is, so unsure of clutch materiel. How do I determine where my TQ extension point is? Damn this board is like going back to school or something, just keep the info coming.
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From: Murphy, TX
Re: CONVERTER LOCKED OR NOT??? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Colonel:
<strong>I absolutely would not lock the converter at anything other than high rpms. I'd lock it right at the point that TQ extention runs out (the point where the converter stops multiplying TQ.) </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I would suggest locking it even higher than that. The goal would be to not have the RPM you end up at after locking be below the point specified above. Think of it as a close ratio shift.
<strong>I absolutely would not lock the converter at anything other than high rpms. I'd lock it right at the point that TQ extention runs out (the point where the converter stops multiplying TQ.) </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I would suggest locking it even higher than that. The goal would be to not have the RPM you end up at after locking be below the point specified above. Think of it as a close ratio shift.
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From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Re: CONVERTER LOCKED OR NOT??? Cool Beans, I think for my sake I won't F with it. Speaking of trannies and sh*t, man our A4's are sensitive to fluid level. I installed a supercooler last week and hit the track last night. Just a tad low on fluid (oops) and bounced of the rev limited on the 2-3 shifts a few times, not cool. Obviously the car is a virgin to tuning, even HPP3 type. Thanks guys.
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From: Troy, AL
Re: CONVERTER LOCKED OR NOT??? "I would suggest locking it even higher than that. The goal would be to not have the RPM you end up at after locking be below the point specified above."
Not sure I'm following you...below what point? What I was suggesting would have you locking the converter at something like 5000-5200 RPM with a 3500 converter or 5500-5700 with a 4000 converter.
Not sure I'm following you...below what point? What I was suggesting would have you locking the converter at something like 5000-5200 RPM with a 3500 converter or 5500-5700 with a 4000 converter.
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From: Louisville Ky
How much ET is locking the convertor up worth? My friend and I are running a 3800 pro yank, 3.73 rear, in his 99 vette. We are thinking of turning on the lockup in 3rd, at 4400rpm. Ayone have any idea what this may be worth in the 1/4. et and mph? PS not sure if i posted this right?
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Does anyone at this site know what happened to the Colonel? Two yeara go, MTI was building a C5R for him but I haven't heard anything about it or him.
Originally Posted by Colonel
Your converter has a clutch that locks the input and output sides of the converter during cruiseing. This lockup is controlled by the computer. This lowers the RPM and increases gas mileage. Some folks rig up a switch so that they can manually lock up their converter for dyno runs which yeild higher and more accurate numbers due to getting rid of the slippage and TQ multiplication of the converter. Some folks also like to lock the converter high in the RPM in third gear at the track. This sometimes yeilds slightly higher trap speeds and lower ETs. How much difference locking the converter makes on the dyno and at the track depends on how efficient the converter is when unlocked. Yank converters are extremely efficient and usually benefit about 10-15 RWHP on the dyno and very little to none at the track by locking the converter.
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From: Wichita KS / Rancho San Diego
Originally Posted by bickelfirebird
Does anyone at this site know what happened to the Colonel? Two yeara go, MTI was building a C5R for him but I haven't heard anything about it or him.
I have also wondered where he has been. He helped me out a lot when I first joined the site.
From manually locking the converter i gained 1 tenth and 2 mph w/ bolt ons. Im sure it will be much more with nitrous.
Good luck getting it to lock with tuning I dont think anyone knows how to do it, or hptuners isnt capable.
As far as the yank goes I dont know if it can handle it. Is it multi disc?
From manually locking the converter i gained 1 tenth and 2 mph w/ bolt ons. Im sure it will be much more with nitrous.
Good luck getting it to lock with tuning I dont think anyone knows how to do it, or hptuners isnt capable.
As far as the yank goes I dont know if it can handle it. Is it multi disc?
