Can you still hook after putting in a stall?
07-31-2007, 02:11 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by allbaugh_04
Yea, but isn't it true when you start launching on slicks..ur just beggin for a broken rear end?
Just get the stall and enjoy. 1st and 2nd aren't that bad after driving it for awhile. You just have to feather the pedal for a bit.
07-31-2007, 03:05 PM
#23
Originally Posted by JakeY2KZ
With an A4 it's not as bad. I had numerous passes on my 10 bolt when I was running a 4200. I had a T/A cover with stud kit on it but it still held.
Just get the stall and enjoy. 1st and 2nd aren't that bad after driving it for awhile. You just have to feather the pedal for a bit.
Just get the stall and enjoy. 1st and 2nd aren't that bad after driving it for awhile. You just have to feather the pedal for a bit.
Last edited by allbaugh_04; 07-31-2007 at 03:46 PM.
at this thread.... stall+street tires = big burnouts unless you can drive... 
BOSS APPROVED!
08-01-2007, 12:46 PM
#31
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I can't go WOT until after the 60' with my SS3800. I could get the car to break loose in second gear sometime in a second gear downshift around 40 MPH; and that's with 315s. Admittedly, they are crappy 315s, but that's a good amount of weight and tire. You have to have some skills to drive a 1.8 or 1.9s 60's at the track on street tires. I don't think I was able to get better than a 2.0X 60'. If you go with a big stall, plan on getting some DRs if you plan to run good times.
In short, the higher stall speed and higher stall torque ratio (STR) you go, the harder it will hit off the line, and the more difficult it will be to have traction. If you don't plan on spending much time at the track, get a high stall with low STR so you won't shock the tires on the street. Lower STR will be more efficient also, so it will still pull really hard in the upper RPMs.
Good luck.
In short, the higher stall speed and higher stall torque ratio (STR) you go, the harder it will hit off the line, and the more difficult it will be to have traction. If you don't plan on spending much time at the track, get a high stall with low STR so you won't shock the tires on the street. Lower STR will be more efficient also, so it will still pull really hard in the upper RPMs.
Good luck.
08-01-2007, 09:11 PM
#34
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i had the cam and all that b4 the stall... but like said b4 if your on street tires your just going to be burning them up unless you take it easy.. i still have yet to buy slicks...
08-01-2007, 09:46 PM
#35
If you can't launch a bolt-on car with a 3500 stall, we may have to take the keys away. If you want a car you can just mash and go, trade your car for the V6 version. Easy to launch and the insurance is less. Thank god you don't have an M6...
[/rant]
Once you get the stall, put in some practice learning to launch. You'll do fine.
If you are going to run street tires at all times, keep the STR low and stay with factory gear ratios. A high STR only helps if you have sticky tires and they're hot when you need them. That describes running at the track, but not your average daily driver pulling away from a traffic light on the way to work. A 3600 stall with 2.0 STR and 3.23 gears is a good street car. Downright deadly if you throw a set of nittos on the back at a normal street pressure (e.g. 26 lbs).
[/rant]
Once you get the stall, put in some practice learning to launch. You'll do fine.
If you are going to run street tires at all times, keep the STR low and stay with factory gear ratios. A high STR only helps if you have sticky tires and they're hot when you need them. That describes running at the track, but not your average daily driver pulling away from a traffic light on the way to work. A 3600 stall with 2.0 STR and 3.23 gears is a good street car. Downright deadly if you throw a set of nittos on the back at a normal street pressure (e.g. 26 lbs).
08-01-2007, 09:54 PM
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a blast
Originally Posted by tigertales
How's the WOT downshift with you hi-stalls. Sometimes its feels like mine kind of lags a bit, like it is spinning the tires or *worse* spinning through the trans.
