4l60e 4.3 Vortec V6 Need Expert Help!!!!!
#1
4l60e 4.3 Vortec V6 Need Expert Help!!!!!
Since I can't get search to work I need some information I can't locate.
Here's the basic story.
1. Good 1996 4.3 Vortec and 4l60e out of junkyard.
2. Engine and tranny separated to check out engine.
3. Reassembled and due to my ignorance I broke the ears on the front pump. No pressure or flow from cooler lines.
4. After great difficulty the front pump was replaced with a new one. The valve body was removed and cleaned up, a new gasket was installed, the ***** replaced in the locations indicated on the rebuild kit using assembly goo. I did not have a torque wrench that goes as small as called for. I used a spiralling pattern moving outward and used a minimal amount of pressure approximating the torque.
5. All reassembled and reinstalled in car. Torque converter appeared to lock in but I did not get 3 clicks like described in description. I did get two. The TC is back in far enough that I cannot get my fingers in under it.
6. Wheels will turn when in air on jackstands but there is no torque and wheels rotate forward in reverse.
7. Pressure gauge indicates approx 20 lbs pressure at startup but drops to near 0 at idle. It comes up when revving the engine but returns to near 0.
8 Disconnection of harness throws two DTC's P1864 (torque converter) and P1886 (no power). After reconnection and clearing no codes appear.
I believe the above clears any possible electrical issues. I am now trying to decide what is the best way to proceed.
I have a question on the TC seating and bolt up. If the TC is seated correctly and then is pulled forward to bolt up to the flexplate, how do you know it is still engaged to the pump?
Admittedly I am a novice and do not totally understand the interconnection of the TC to the pump. It just seems like the TC could come forward enough to disengage.
Should I drop the pan again and start from there or should I start with the TC?
You guys have been great furnishing information. I am very grateful for everything you provide.
Tnx Fred in Mesquite, TX
Here's the basic story.
1. Good 1996 4.3 Vortec and 4l60e out of junkyard.
2. Engine and tranny separated to check out engine.
3. Reassembled and due to my ignorance I broke the ears on the front pump. No pressure or flow from cooler lines.
4. After great difficulty the front pump was replaced with a new one. The valve body was removed and cleaned up, a new gasket was installed, the ***** replaced in the locations indicated on the rebuild kit using assembly goo. I did not have a torque wrench that goes as small as called for. I used a spiralling pattern moving outward and used a minimal amount of pressure approximating the torque.
5. All reassembled and reinstalled in car. Torque converter appeared to lock in but I did not get 3 clicks like described in description. I did get two. The TC is back in far enough that I cannot get my fingers in under it.
6. Wheels will turn when in air on jackstands but there is no torque and wheels rotate forward in reverse.
7. Pressure gauge indicates approx 20 lbs pressure at startup but drops to near 0 at idle. It comes up when revving the engine but returns to near 0.
8 Disconnection of harness throws two DTC's P1864 (torque converter) and P1886 (no power). After reconnection and clearing no codes appear.
I believe the above clears any possible electrical issues. I am now trying to decide what is the best way to proceed.
I have a question on the TC seating and bolt up. If the TC is seated correctly and then is pulled forward to bolt up to the flexplate, how do you know it is still engaged to the pump?
Admittedly I am a novice and do not totally understand the interconnection of the TC to the pump. It just seems like the TC could come forward enough to disengage.
Should I drop the pan again and start from there or should I start with the TC?
You guys have been great furnishing information. I am very grateful for everything you provide.
Tnx Fred in Mesquite, TX
#2
Originally Posted by fgcox1
I have a question on the TC seating and bolt up. If the TC is seated correctly and then is pulled forward to bolt up to the flexplate, how do you know it is still engaged to the pump?
Should I drop the pan again and start from there or should I start with the TC?
Tnx Fred in Mesquite, TX
Should I drop the pan again and start from there or should I start with the TC?
Tnx Fred in Mesquite, TX
If the converter was installed far enoguh that it needed to be pulled back to the flexplate then you should be fine. The converter will be engaged to the pump.
How much fluid is in it?
g
#3
LS1Tech Sponsor
iTrader: (25)
The fluid level would be my question also, Total should be around 12 quarts. Also you replaced the pump did you buy one assembled or from a junkyard etc , I have seen the screen missing from side of the pump cause a similar issue, The pump is aparently working some to get the 20 lbs so it sounds like either you have a large leak re:screen missing from pump,filter missing from trans or a very low fluid level emptying the pan.
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#4
Youse guys are the BEST!!!!!!
Stupid rookie mistake. Pump came listed as "ready to install", no filter!!!
Waiting on my floor jack to come back and will reinstall.
Thank you Experts!!!!
Stupid rookie mistake. Pump came listed as "ready to install", no filter!!!
Waiting on my floor jack to come back and will reinstall.
Thank you Experts!!!!
#5
LS1Tech Sponsor
iTrader: (25)
Your welcome and yes I have seen the ready to install pumps make sure the presure regulator and TCC valves are there too.
Originally Posted by fgcox1
Youse guys are the BEST!!!!!!
Stupid rookie mistake. Pump came listed as "ready to install", no filter!!!
Waiting on my floor jack to come back and will reinstall.
Thank you Experts!!!!
Stupid rookie mistake. Pump came listed as "ready to install", no filter!!!
Waiting on my floor jack to come back and will reinstall.
Thank you Experts!!!!
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