Yank SS3600 track results...
99 T/A WS6 A4 (stock 3.23 gear), Yank Stealth 2600, air lid, EGR mod, !MAF screen, TB coolant bypass, HPP3 for shift points and rev limit only, exhaust cutout, removed back seat & spare tire/jack, skinnies up front, drag radials in the rear. best ET was 8.28 @ 86, 12.85 @ 107, 1.85 60'.
now, i have the Yank SS3600, and the Predator with the base tune. i also used ET streets mounted on 16" Z28 salad shooters. today, the weather was 85*, 66% humidity, and 29.xx pressure. my ET's averaged high 8.30's @ 84 mph with 60's usually in the 1.90 range. i got a few high 1.8's but still only got 8.3x ET. what's up with that!?!?! i can't believe i spent all that time and aggravation picking out what i thought to be the "right converter" for my daily driver to not really see any results!?! i know it was warmer today, and it's a different track than my previous best. but i still managed 8.3x's at that same track a few months ago. i can't imagine that the weather would have affected my car this much, especially in the 60'!
Mike @ Yank told me to expect 1.6x 60's. i tried launching many different ways... from idle, from 1000 rpms, and from brake stalling it up even higher (usually slowed it down but gave it some wheelspin off the line). oh, and my car seems to be running fine, no knock whatsoever and about 27.x* of spark advance... anyone have any input? i really don't want to have to pull this thing and go with the Vig 3600... but i'll do that if i have to. I remember when i had my first vigilante the 2800 and after being gone from the track for a month i went and ran the same damn times as stock. I was furious...buch of crap wasted money.
In three months it cooled off and i was running high 11's through the cat converters.
What were your 60's before the verter swap? and afer?
What was the track conditions on the best day compared to the day you posted?
If you are getting ANY spinnage.... all your data is meaningless. How the hell do you know a damn thing if you are spinning? You can not compare a run that you spun on to another run you spun. Well you can but it is fruitless in trying to improve your cars performance and worthless from a data aquisition stand point.
Stop the spin and give some more input.
Hot weather KILLS performance.
what i really need to know is, for those of you that run 1.6x 60's or better, what is the best way to launch this thing. with the Stealth, it was best launching from 1000 rpms or so. do i really need to brake stall this thing up and really lower my tire pressure? when i left from idle, and 1000-1500, it always dead hooked today and felt like it had no grunt whatsoever. i don't know how high this converter will brake stall, but maybe that's what i need to do?!?!
When I went to a high stall (ST3500) on Nittos I gained nothing. I was getting the same ets as before. My Nittos were old and wouldn't hold the torque. spin spin spin I needed new tires so I got ET streets and with traction got some gains from the converter but still not what I expected 1.82-1.85. It was hot out 80s and up with a stock motor. Now the 60's were power limited. When I got it out in the cool fall air when the motor could make some more power the 60's fell to the 1.65s.
When Mike quotes 60's he should tell his customers that it depends upon the power and weight of the car combined with traction. It's a tricky combo to nail down.
I've pulled a best 60' of 1.64 in good cool air. But when it's hot and humid out they head for the high 1.7s to low 1.8s right now. And that's because of the 1 HP my stock motor looses for every 1 degree rise in temps.
I hope this helps you to decide what you need to do to be happy with your combo. I decided that I need to loosen up the converter (ST3800) to get where I wanted to be and it has helped.
If the tires cannot hold a 2500 launch... get more tire.
If your spinning all your data in completely meaningless.
"When Mike quotes 60's he should tell his customers that it depends upon the power and weight of the car combined with traction."
...Al, dont you think that should be self evident?
Jeff, put a line of white shoe polish on your rear tire and have a buddy watch the line to see if you are spinning.
Good luck
and from brake stalling it up even higher (usually slowed it down but gave it some wheelspin off the line).
That said, I do not believe the SS3600 was your best choice if you want consistent 1.6 60' times on a full weight car with just a lid and a catback. The SS3800 probably have gotten you there, but the SS3600 drives and performs like a 3200+ stall.
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...Al, dont you think that should be self evident?
When I ordered my converter from Mike himself I told him exactly what mods I had, the elevation of my track, the weight of my car, what my typical trap MPH was, what gearing I was going to use, and I told him that I wanted a converter that would stall between 3300 and 3500 rpm. He sold me an ST3500 and assured me that it would 60 in the 1.6s with my combo. Well it didn't and the very highest that it would stall was 2800ish. So maybe not so self evident. I assumed that my converter would be manufactured to perform as stated. Now Mike made it right by restalling the converter at no cost to me and it will now brake stall to 3300 rpms and does a much better job. I was just stating that sometimes you're not getting what you think that you are.
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FWIW, my ST 3500 would not brake stall to anymore more than 2800 either. I cut high 1.6x's in good weather with my boat. I'm glad that he did what it took to get you happy.
FWIW, my ST 3500 would not brake stall to anymore more than 2800 either. I cut high 1.6x's in good weather with my boat. I'm glad that he did what it took to get you happy.
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2700rpm max on the foot brake. 2870 or so was the maximum flash stall that I ever logged (with AutoTap) on a dead hook launch on ET streets. It was just to tight for my application.
I too cut the 1.64 in good air (-1300DA) before the restall. But in normal air 1.78-1.84 was the norm and not what I paid $700 for.
Now with the looser converter I pulled all 1.71s at 2400DA at the N vs S. I can put the car in 2nd now and footbrake stall to 3300 easy. Big difference. Heck I have my 2 step set at 2900rpm with skinnies on the front with no problems.
Hope this helps explain.
in my car And cut a 1.66 60 ft time on street tires( not even a drag radials)ON THE BOTTLE. I am very happy with my converter. It has been the best mod ever. Went 8.40's without, and 7.80's with. That was not even on the juice,AND BEFORE THE HEADERS. Yank SS3800 results
I have knocked off 8 tenths off my best stock 1/8 mile time, but headers and some tuning have helped some as well. The car pulls well and is posting almost 89mph in the 1/8 so the HP is there. If I can get in the 1.6 range the car should be good for low-mid 12's.
What's your shift extension. Mine is between 4150-4300. Thought I read that it should be up around 4700-4800.
I took a look at your post. A one tire fire is not helping your cause.
As I mentioned above, if you can cause the tires to spin, then you are not taking advantage of the converter's maximum torque output. You got to have a fully working rear and a dead hook to know what the converter can do.It only does the 1 leg on the burnouts about 50% of the time. I had 3 good both tire burnouts and then some 1 legger in between. Is it going away, or gone? I would think if it only happens, some of the time, then it's more a function of how the burnout begins. On the street, both will spin.
What about the shift extension? I'm 700-800 rpm lower than I should be. That has nothing to do with the rear end, right? Maybe the converter is bad, like a SS3200, not a 3800. How does trans fluid affect it? I was a little low, nothing bad.
Yep. With EFI Live, showing between 4150-4300. Mike at Yank said to shift at 6350. I told him that with a stock valve train that I can't. My understanding is that shift rpm doesn't impact shift extension.
Haven't heard anything back from him. I'll give him a call this week.

