35 to about 45 mph car doesnt seem to do anything
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From: Newark, Ohio
35 to about 45 mph car doesnt seem to do anything I have an a4 and at about 35-45 miles per hour it seems to like not want to really speed up after that until i get past 45 mph. It seems to hit a funk in 35-45mph range... Anyone know what might be causing this?
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TECH Apprentice
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From: Newark, Ohio
No, like when im driving its shifting fine and everything and then it seems to hit a spot at about 35-45mph where it does not want to do nething even when u try giving a little more gas
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Sandwich, IL
That's the deadspot in the transmission. I have 3.23 gears and my car hated the 31-50 punch. Reason is the transmission will not downshift to first but rather stays in the bottom of second gear.
First gear for me red lines to about 40 MPH and second goes till about 80. So if I nail the gas at 35 instead of going to first and pulling HARD it stays in second (low rpms) and pulls slow. This is unfortunately normal and there are only a few ways to lessen or eliminate this.
1). Get steep gears like 3.73's. That will make the lower speed roll better but will not completely eliminate it.
2). Put a higher stall torque converter and tranny cooler in. 3000-3600 will greatly improve the dead spot and 3800-4400 will pretty much eliminate it.
3). Swap to a M6 or auto with a manual valve body. You could just put the car manually in first and then shift yourself but this is very BAD for a 4L60E transmission. I strongly recommend you don't do that.
Hope that helped and good luck.
First gear for me red lines to about 40 MPH and second goes till about 80. So if I nail the gas at 35 instead of going to first and pulling HARD it stays in second (low rpms) and pulls slow. This is unfortunately normal and there are only a few ways to lessen or eliminate this.
1). Get steep gears like 3.73's. That will make the lower speed roll better but will not completely eliminate it.
2). Put a higher stall torque converter and tranny cooler in. 3000-3600 will greatly improve the dead spot and 3800-4400 will pretty much eliminate it.
3). Swap to a M6 or auto with a manual valve body. You could just put the car manually in first and then shift yourself but this is very BAD for a 4L60E transmission. I strongly recommend you don't do that.
Hope that helped and good luck.
11 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Sandwich, IL
Perhaps the 1-2 clutchpack is going bad. Does it feel like it's slipping and not wanting to shift into second smoothly?
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11 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Sandwich, IL
Well keep an eye on this thread tomarrow morning. There's a guy from Performabuilt who'll likely chime in with some good ideas for you. He's a 4L60E guru and is real good at diagnosing tranny symptoms.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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Personally the description your giving does sound like a dead spot . You could possibly alter tuning to allow kickdown at a higher speed might help a little but I think the guys at the top have it right you need a converter to keep you in your power curve. I dont see your rear ratio listed but for a near stock set up and for a newbie to a stall wich I am assuming you are, I would suggest around a 3000 stall , Drivability would not suffer significantly at low speeds with and efficent converter like ours but it would cover up the dead spots and really bring your car to life more than you can imagine. Would be the single best mod you have made to date.
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Well basically it allows your car to stay in its torque curve. Sometime take off in your car without spinning and note the aproximate RPM its seems to start pulling hardest. Then imagine if it was there from the start, As for 3000 well its drivable , not alotta mushy feel at low speeds very close to stock feel driving normally . You have a stock cam and you have never had a stall . Added to that its a 9.5 inch converter roughly 12 pounds lighter than your stock converter engine will turn up much faster with the lower spinning weight.
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3000 up to 3500 but i would stay on the lower
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11 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Sandwich, IL
Agreed. I love my 3500 stall and highly recommend anything in the 3000-3600 range for anyone with an auto. But just make sure that you do it right. You need a transmission cooler to counter the extra heat 3000+ stalls generate. You may also be wise to consider a shift kit to firm up the shifts.
It's not cheap though. You're looking at anywhere from $1,000-$1500 for everything including install. But once you do it you'll never want to go back to a stock stall again.
It's not cheap though. You're looking at anywhere from $1,000-$1500 for everything including install. But once you do it you'll never want to go back to a stock stall again.
11 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Sandwich, IL
No problem. You spend more time here helping people then any other sponsor I can recall and I've been a member here since 2003 (my first username got messed up). That says a LOT about a companys dedication and customer service when they extend it to people who are not even customers.
I put my stage 3 4L60E on layaway yesterday and look forward to running your transmission behind my new motor next spring
I put my stage 3 4L60E on layaway yesterday and look forward to running your transmission behind my new motor next spring
11 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,847
Likes: 1
From: Sandwich, IL
