It Might Be The Coolers
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 34
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It Might Be The Coolers ok hears the deal i just took apart my 4l60, the fluid was burnt and so wre the clutches. mind you that the transmission only lasted 2 days after i rebuilt it so the clutches were all new and now there burnt. so no i think its my cooler that is blocked that is making me burn up these transmissions. so once again i will rebuild, replace the cooler and pray for the best!!!!!
I used an old fuel pump to clean my coolers before I installed my new FLT unit. Vince recommended I run mineral spirits through it to flush it. I ran a container through until it came out clear and clean (started black and nasty). I then ran two quarts of tranny fluid through until all the mineral spirits were out. Worked like a charm and super easy to accomplish. You should always clean/replace the coolers.
If the clutches are burned but there is no sign of heat on the planets then the cooler is unlikley to be the cause, Fluid from the cooler actually is the lube for the planets, Without it they will get so hot in only a few miles as to turn blue, If you have Multiple clucth packs burned you have a presure issue. Though it always a good idea to flush the coolers on any install. You can also get and areosol flush that works very well from trans supply shops we furnish a can with every unit we sell. It screws onto your lines. You push the button and it sprays high presure solvent through your lines, Works very well cost about 8 dollars a can. Just another idea, But in the trans failure I would be looking at the PCS, Persure regulator and Pump. Once you get it together and full of fluid , I would find a presure guage to put on it before I drive it, Depending on what kind of boost valse you have presure should be maxed between 170 and 225 lbs. Run with Harness plug unhooked to check max line. You will need to clear all codes afterward.
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A blocked cooler will not result in the clutches burning a blocked filter will ,The first indication you get of a blocked cooler is the planets cooking and ussually a blocked cooler comes from a converter clutch failure
fluild from the frictions must travel through the filter , Fluid from the converter travels through the cooler
fluild from the frictions must travel through the filter , Fluid from the converter travels through the cooler
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A blocked cooler will not result in the clutches burning a blocked filter will ,The first indication you get of a blocked cooler is the planets cooking and ussually a blocked cooler comes from a converter clutch failure
fluild from the frictions must travel through the filter , Fluid from the converter travels through the cooler
fluild from the frictions must travel through the filter , Fluid from the converter travels through the cooler
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
well the clutches were brand new so there was still some clutch material left on then but they were BLACK really really BLACK before the rebuild the clutches wasent burnt like this. They was just worn. when i looked at the low and reverse clutches there were not black and discolored as were the other clutch packs. As fas as the planetary gears go they did not look blue or discolored, but about the pressure issue, the trans was really slugish after the rebuild i had to almost floor it to get moving and if i cam to a hill it would really show its azz. but the high way it was bearly noticable but i still could feel like there was no power there. well anyway this thing is stressing me out all advice is greatly appricated.
mike
mike
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FormerVendor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,123
Likes: 3
From: D-F/W
I know I kinda jumped into this deal kinda late... but I've been following it right along.
I don't remember what your experience is with transmissions.... that info is useful fo rthis conversation.
I must say that if the clutches reflected any wear, discoloration or any other seemingly minimal stress issues they must be replaced.
When you were in it last what were the clutch pack clearances when you went back together?
Originally, did you completely dissasemble the unit and replace all of the pistons, seals and all other soft parts?
Point me to your parts list.
Then, call me in the morning.
g
I don't remember what your experience is with transmissions.... that info is useful fo rthis conversation.
I must say that if the clutches reflected any wear, discoloration or any other seemingly minimal stress issues they must be replaced.
When you were in it last what were the clutch pack clearances when you went back together?
Originally, did you completely dissasemble the unit and replace all of the pistons, seals and all other soft parts?
Point me to your parts list.
Then, call me in the morning.
g
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You can also get and areosol flush that works very well from trans supply shops we furnish a can with every unit we sell. It screws onto your lines. You push the button and it sprays high presure solvent through your lines, Works very well cost about 8 dollars a can.
FormerVendor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,123
Likes: 3
From: D-F/W
And also, what was the 3/4 clutchpack clearance? Not too worried about the others right now.
What clutches did you use in the 3/4 clutchpack?
g
FormerVendor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,123
Likes: 3
From: D-F/W
On real nasty units we have a power flush tool designed especially for cleaning coolers. In it we run Mineral Spirits.
g
Its a good idea to blow it out, But it is solvent made to be compatable with transfluild, Thats what it was actually made to for.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2007
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when i put the trans in i did not flush it but i did blow compressed air through it to blow out some more old fluid. but i did not measure any cluch pack cleances. if i remember correctly i replaced all piston seals a seal in the input shaft seals on the solenoids and a couple of others i can really remember what else i did. i am a Lincoln tech student and in automatic trans class i decided to rebuild my own in sted of a school transmssion, the bad thing about it is that my teacher really didnt know how to rebuild my trans so that made things that much more difficuilt! but from day one after i rebuilt that trans it never was right when i put it in. it took off slugish and the car had almost no power. for example it wouldnt even spin tires in the rain!!!
Does the cooler circuit have enough head to tolerate an
inline filter, like one of those remote spin-on kits? Seems
like a way to get added regular filtration and catch stray
chunks in case.
inline filter, like one of those remote spin-on kits? Seems
like a way to get added regular filtration and catch stray
chunks in case.
when i put the trans in i did not flush it but i did blow compressed air through it to blow out some more old fluid. but i did not measure any cluch pack cleances. if i remember correctly i replaced all piston seals a seal in the input shaft seals on the solenoids and a couple of others i can really remember what else i did. i am a Lincoln tech student and in automatic trans class i decided to rebuild my own in sted of a school transmssion, the bad thing about it is that my teacher really didnt know how to rebuild my trans so that made things that much more difficuilt! but from day one after i rebuilt that trans it never was right when i put it in. it took off slugish and the car had almost no power. for example it wouldnt even spin tires in the rain!!!
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