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4L80 right from the start??

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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 09:03 AM
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Default 4L80 right from the start??

Ok guys, this is the deal. I picked up an auto '02 Z in December and its a virgin car. As I plot my moves, I do not want to do things twice. The 4L60 is basically junk if I'm going to make this car somewhat quick, which I think I will do. I can go out and spend $800 on a Yank and transcooler right now for the 4L60 or....should I just do the bolt-ons first and save my pennies and go right for a 4L80 out of a Chevy can or whatever. If the 4l60 is going to crap out of on me for sure, and its going to be $1500 to get it rebuilt nicely along with the $800 convertor I will buy, why not just opt for the 4L80 right from the start?

I will not do a 3 speed. I want to be able to drive this thing anywhere anytime I want and no overdrive would annoy me.

I have found several 4L80s locally for ~ $800. I'm thinking for another $800 I should be able to have it beefed up so I'd have $1600 into it, with r&r it would be closer to $2k. I could then sell my 4L60 and use that money to get a stall convertor and then I should be set. Thoughts??

Are their any negatives to going with a 4L80?
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 09:05 AM
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Sounds like you got a plan
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 10:10 AM
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It does sound like a plan.

But, make sure you understand the costs associated with a conversion. The crossmember and torque arm are around $600.00, the Driveshaft will be between $250.00 and $300.00. The PCM will need to be reprogrammed $200-$400, you'll need an overlay harness $250, you'll need a flexplate $150 - $200.

Most conversions that we do come out around $4,000 - $4,500. But of course that includes the Tranny and Converter.

What are your short term and long term goals for the car? There is absolutely no reason a correctly well built 4L60E would not live in a fast car. It's done every day. The 60E gets a bad rap because sooo many builders try their hand at it and are not successful. It's that simple.

If you would like to explore some options don't hesitate to give me a call.

Hope that helps.

g
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 11:37 AM
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 04:07 PM
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My swap I think was worth spending alittle extra money. I already had the adjustable torque arm which is a worthwhile mod in itself as you get a stronger torque arm and mount and you also get some adjustability. The slip yoke and conversion u joint only cost me 90.00 pressed it on ourselves. I just bought hp tuners because its nice to have and you obviously need it for the 4l80e file. I reused my stock flexplate just got a custom 4l80e - ls1 converter from yank. Hopefully the stock flexplate doesnt blow through the floor.... The wiring harness and stuff was like 160.00 from speed eng and the xmember cost me like 175.00 or something from yank. The trans I got out of a 94 van for 66 bucks it could of worked but I decided to get it rebuilt at performabuilt which is only 1hr away and they seemed to give me a good price so. I would spend the extra money and know you have something extra good in there.
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Kenny H
I could then sell my 4L60 and use that money to get a stall convertor and then I should be set. Thoughts??

Are their any negatives to going with a 4L80?
This is my plan too, why blow **** up when you could make some money from it and now that you'll have a good solid foundation after the fact.
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 05:50 PM
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You really dont need to build the 80 in the first place. As long as you get a good working trans, preferrably a newer one, they will hold tons of power. The one i use is as stock as the day it was made, and it puts up with close to 600whp on a daily basis in a 3600lb car. Get a converter right away and build it after the fact.
Gary
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 06:01 PM
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Yea that works to haha.
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Grr
You really dont need to build the 80 in the first place. As long as you get a good working trans, preferrably a newer one, they will hold tons of power. The one i use is as stock as the day it was made, and it puts up with close to 600whp on a daily basis in a 3600lb car. Get a converter right away and build it after the fact.
Gary
LOL, this is what I want to here. I jsut started a thread at the top regarding this info. Thanks allot man, this is what my research tells me too. I will most likely doing the exact same thing but want to beef it up with a few lil upgrades. Any advice on such? Thanks and not hijacking but think it would benefit the original poster as well
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 07:50 PM
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Just get a decent shift kit from one of the vendors, put it in. When you make enough power that it stars slipping, just put in a rebuild with good clutches and you should be fine for any street application. One of my customers has a bone stock 4l80 in a pickup that puts down 550ft-lbs and we've pulled loaded grain trucks with it quite often, thats a 25-30klbs load.
Just be sure to keep the oil cool, ive seen alot of good trannys with burnt oil take em out.
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Grr
Just get a decent shift kit from one of the vendors, put it in. When you make enough power that it stars slipping, just put in a rebuild with good clutches and you should be fine for any street application. One of my customers has a bone stock 4l80 in a pickup that puts down 550ft-lbs and we've pulled loaded grain trucks with it quite often, thats a 25-30klbs load.
Just be sure to keep the oil cool, ive seen alot of good trannys with burnt oil take em out.
Ya, I am going to rebuild it right from the start with a overhaul kit, upgraded clutch pack and a shift kit. This way its done right the first time, also going to call up someone like yank and get a nice converter. I'll be making anywhere from 650rwhp on the street to the often trip to the track at around 800rwhp or a bit more when I really crank the boost at her. I am not much of a racer, just building a street machine and can go for a nice cruise whenever I want. Sounds promising, can't wait
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 07:59 AM
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If you intend to keep some weight in the car and make 700+ rwhp one day, go 80e and save time/money
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cablebandit
If you intend to keep some weight in the car and make 700+ rwhp one day, go 80e and save time/money
Thanks Cablebandit, I was already informed via pm about your application from somebody that knows you. Made me make up my mind, your ride hauls and your 80 is taking it like a champ. Need to say anymore, LOL
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 04:58 PM
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I agree if you plan on bigger power go 80e. i am right now doing a m6 4l80e swap. I wanted to buy a built 4l80e and be done, but i didnt have the money this year so I bought a used 48k miles 4l80e. i purchased/am purchasing all the other parts...wiring harness(210), crossmember(273), beefy torque converter(855), and all the other parts will add up too....
Anyway....a stock 4l80e im sure can handle a lot, ill just rebuild it later or buy a diff one in the future.
Just throwing the idea out there to do what im doing and live with a stock tranny for a year or two. They are plenty strong.
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 05:00 PM
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or go FLT. I've heard AMAZING stuff about them and they're a sponsor.
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 10:26 AM
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Kenny
I changed my car to a 4L80E and love it so far
I would not waste money on the 60E and if you look hard enough you can get the 80E rather cheap
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 09:50 PM
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Question 4l60 to 4l80 swap

i have a 95 deisel extended cab 1500 work truck. The 4l60 transmission recently gave up on me and I accidentally replaced it with a 4l80. I had to shorten the driveshaft by 1.5 inches. It went in very tightly, lotsa pushing. It works great! Runs smoothly, shifts just fine! Computer and Linkage even hooked up ok or so I thought!


My problem? I put it in park and it still rolls. I am really not a mechanic and am not looking for any high performance. I just want this to work like a normal truck should.

What would be causing it to roll in Park?

james
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by neworleanz81
i have a 95 deisel extended cab 1500 work truck. The 4l60 transmission recently gave up on me and I accidentally replaced it with a 4l80. I had to shorten the driveshaft by 1.5 inches. It went in very tightly, lotsa pushing. It works great! Runs smoothly, shifts just fine! Computer and Linkage even hooked up ok or so I thought!


My problem? I put it in park and it still rolls. I am really not a mechanic and am not looking for any high performance. I just want this to work like a normal truck should.

What would be causing it to roll in Park?

james
I'd make sure the shifter is actually moving the lever on the trani all the way forward, for starters.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 05:38 AM
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i spent 1800 on mine total. D/s is fine along with Tq arm along with flexplate.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 08:34 AM
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i got my 80 built buy jim at transformance. the 80 can get quiet expensive but it will all be worth it in the end.
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