Well I finished the installation of the transgo reprogrammer kit in my WS6. My only complaint is that it shifts pretty hard at low speeds from first to second. I know it's supposed to be firmer all over but it borderline wants to bark the tires going from a stop light just granny driving! I'm happy with everything else for now. I also read alot about the torque managment dulling down the shifts. Well this is not the case. I went perfectly by the instructions and by recomendation added no spacers. I need to know if they may be something wrong. What do ya'll think?

Vinny

 

What colour spring did you fit to the 2nd accumulator bushing in the valve body? The one with the roll pin.

I mistakenly fitted the red one (with the bound up mid section) instead of the white one. This is also supposed to effect the 1-2 shift low rev shift. The white spring is much softer.

You are supposed to remove the stock yellow spring in this part of the mods which wasn't very clear in the instructions and I nearly left it in.

How long did the install take you?

 

I feel that the red spring will actually produce a less harsh shift. Are you sure that you installed the accumulator valve and sleeve the correct way. It can be easily flipped and will produce a very hard shift. Also the valve needs to move freely. Could be couple things to look at. Are you still running the factory converter? Do you have a tune that your transmissions line pressure have elevated? These are a few things for you to look at or think about. Good luck. Vince

 

I took my time to make sure I followed the instructions to a T. I did use the white spring and went by the picture when installing back in the valve body. The converter is factory and as far as I know there is no nonfactory tune in the trans. In the next couple of weeks I am getting a Diablo sport programmer for it and I think I can use it to check the line pressure. I did leave the small filter off the separator plate because it was broke and I was told by the guy at preformabuild it wasn't really needed. It took about 8-10 hours just taking my time and having trouble hooking up the rod on the shifting mechanics. Do ya'll think I need to pull the pan and go through it again? Or see how it does for a couple hundred miles?

Vinny

 

I'm not sure that I would have put the separator plate up with out the filter for the solenoids. It is there to catch small debris that could cause sticky valves or solenoids. I would however make sure that the accumulator valve is not sticking in the valve body. How large did you drill the hole for the 1-2 shift. I would not recommend going above.082 with a factory converter. You could always install your factory accumulator piston and springs. That will help as well. Vince

 

I only drilled it to .082. Is there anyway to check the accumulator valve without removing the valvebody? If I have to remove the valve body will I have to get a new gasket for the seperator plate?

 

I do remember wondering about the regulator valve. When I installed the new boost valve I noticed that the end of the regulator valve itself had a slot cut into it but it went so far up in there I couldn't tell if it was supposed to fit into something. The slot itself I mean.

 

I would recommend a new gasket and also the screen that was not installed. You will need to remove the valve body to check the valve and sleeve. Maybe try the oem 1-2 acc set up first.


The second to last land on the pr valve has 2 flats on it. This is to allow line pressure to lube pressure. Basically full time lube. There is not any special way to install it not to worry. The thing here is if you had an issue there, all of your shifts should be very hard. Basically keeping line pressure jacked up. I have to get to work. I'll check in later. Vince

 

On the 1-2 accumulator thats the aluminum round peice with three 10mm bolts what did you do in there ?

 

On the 1-2 (2nd?) accumulator I followed the instructions but used no spacers

 

spring on top and bottom ? If so change it back to the stock arrangment with the two stock springs in first and the accum servo in last and I would bet you will end up with what you are looking for .

 

So your saying it is probably the way it should be with the kit installed? When I say it shifts hard I mean it has a pretty good bump going to second (more than I thought it would) at low speeds.

One of the problems is the fact that where I live there is no car culture at all. No one to compare things to or really to talk to in person. No one to drive my car and say hey thats not normal or hey thats great.

 

Well if you have a spring on top and bottom of the accum piston the shift wil be pretty agressive, Not being able to feel it in person its hard to say if it more so than it should be , But it will bump .Particulary if you have a stock converter

 

It bumps pretty good. maybe not too much. I thought the TM would dull things down a good bit though. I think I'm going to get someone to ride with me to see what they think.

Vinny

 

Sounds like a plan ,

 

Sorry to hi jack Vinny, the white spring is physically easier to compress by hand than the red one on the 2nd bushing and I was recomennded to use the white one with Billet servos. Any reason for this?

 

That is correct. I myself modify the kit from the directions a bit to get the feel that I prefer per application. The only reason I mentioned the red spring is because I have used that in the past to change the shift feel. It was just an idea. Vince

 

I went to a local trans shop today and spoke to a guy that I know is familier with performance transmissions and took him for a ride in the car. He said it felt right to him. Maybe I'm worrying too much. Its just that I read so much about the TM taking the feel out of the kit. I will not have to turn it off thats for sure! I couldn't imagine using a spacer or much less three spacers without something exploding. Anyway I guess I'm satisfied. Thanks guys!

Vinny

 

Super , I am glad all is good for you ,

 

What different quality does the red spring give opposed to the white one on the 2nd accumulator bushing Vince? I am about to take the valve body out to apply your recommendations to fix the abrupt 1-2 shift on my HD2-C. Considering I have the Fairbanks servos, if I remove all the shims on the 1-2 accumulator will this soften the cruising 1-2 much or will it just reduce performance at WOT shifts? I want it to spin more at WOT but bump less at cruise speeds. Possible?

Also, is it worth chamfering the manual valve ?( I have the revised type). Apols for the hi jack again Vinny but alot of people have the same queries.

How is your going now?