newbie to this converter stuff.. few ??'s
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,306
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From: DETROIT MUSCLE
newbie to this converter stuff.. few ??'s well i still dont kno how a converter works. i dont make **** for sense...like, if i punch itat a late what is gonna happen?? a friend of mine says it will go up to 3600 (vig3600) and then drop. how does that make me fast..i would thing that sum1 else would have takin off and whooped my *** while im waitn for this converter to lock up! another thing, how hard is it to put one in on ur own? would u recommend anything like a rear stud girdle or anything else to give my car support??? my car is under factory warranty so i wanna support it the best i can if i get the vig3600. also what could posible break with getting a torque converter? thanx <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 278
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From: Tyler, Texas
Re: newbie to this converter stuff.. few ??'s This site should help.www.converter.cc <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> Click on facs ,and then look at conv comparisons.
9 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 985
Likes: 7
From: Lake Orion, MI
Re: newbie to this converter stuff.. few ??'s A new high stall TQ will put the hurt on your tires and your opponents if you can hook it. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Some basics to think about with the converter. They allow your engine to spin up to a set RPM level before the driveline fully engages and you smoke your tires. The higher the stall rating the higher you can rev at the light before breaking the wheels loose. The higher you can rev at launch the higher you are in your power band.
Even if you don't rev up the car at a higher stall, the amount of time it takes to run up to 2,800 RPMs when you let go of the brake and stab the gas is practilly the same amount of time it takes to hit 3,500-4,400 RPMs. The only real differnce is how much HP and TRQ your car is putting down when the driveline actually engages and the wheel go.
This is why the torque converter is probably the single biggest bang for the buck on an automatic.
Read up at Yank's page as suggested above for the techical explaination of how Stall Speed, STR and converter efficiency play together.
You'll be in need of a set of Nitto drag radials to match up with your new converter. If you're a daily driver in the Detroit area and only getting to the track a few times a year, look at the SY-3500, SS-3600, Vig 3200 or Vig 3600. ;D
Rick
Some basics to think about with the converter. They allow your engine to spin up to a set RPM level before the driveline fully engages and you smoke your tires. The higher the stall rating the higher you can rev at the light before breaking the wheels loose. The higher you can rev at launch the higher you are in your power band.
Even if you don't rev up the car at a higher stall, the amount of time it takes to run up to 2,800 RPMs when you let go of the brake and stab the gas is practilly the same amount of time it takes to hit 3,500-4,400 RPMs. The only real differnce is how much HP and TRQ your car is putting down when the driveline actually engages and the wheel go.
This is why the torque converter is probably the single biggest bang for the buck on an automatic.
Read up at Yank's page as suggested above for the techical explaination of how Stall Speed, STR and converter efficiency play together.
You'll be in need of a set of Nitto drag radials to match up with your new converter. If you're a daily driver in the Detroit area and only getting to the track a few times a year, look at the SY-3500, SS-3600, Vig 3200 or Vig 3600. ;D
Rick