having a converter buit. how does this sound? **update**
the converter is being custom built by a shop who i've heard nothing but good things from so i know the quality will be very high. he also guarantees his work and if anything ever goes wrong he will fix it fre of charge.
so how does this converter sound for my current and future mods? would you guys do anything differently with the conveter? any input is appreciated and thanks in advance
edit: its a 9.5" not 9

Since you are already planning on tearing up your rear, go more stall and get the ET streets. Check around the Drag racing section and see what that could result in.
My guess is, what he's talking about building will stall more than 2400.
3000 is the minimum stall with 3.42s for a performance orienated LS1. Around 3500 would be more ideal. Allow you spray out of the hole, give you a much better NA launch, and cure the dead spot on a 1-2 shift.
also what do you mean a 800-1200 shift extention? i assume you mean over 2400 rpms. first i would never spray under 3200 rpms b/c of huge pressure down low. i would do a 3500 rpm unit on a stock internal car with nitrous and look for shift extentions in the 4500 rpm range to keep you moving.
BUT this is only my opinion.

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With nitrous I would do a 3000 - 3800 stall. On spray the converter will flash 500 - 800 rpms higher that it will N/A.
Stock stall is like 1800.
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Trust us, if he actually builds you a 2400 stall, you will be missing out big time. You'll end up having it redone for sure.
as for gators question about reputable: he owns level 10 performance up in north jersey. i say reputable because a few of the guys in my dads car club had torque converters/transmission work done by him and they all say his work is bulletproof but they dont know anything about converters so they couldn't tell me if he built the right one for them.
one more thing: i asked him what would happen(to streetability) if we raised the stall and raised the STR also. he said it wouldn't have any effect. i would think it would feel a little tighter no?
HOWEVER, low stall and high STR is a hard combo to learn to launch on the street. The hit goes right to the tires; there is not as much room to feather the throttle before the tires go up in smoke. I could launch my 4000 stall 2.5 STR converter much easier than when I had a 2800 with a 3.0 STR.
Colonel, I agree that a 9.5" housing is on the small side for such a low stall. With the right stator it might work but the shift extension will probably suck. Might as well pick up a stock unit restalled to 2600 for $300 bucks if that is all you want.
well i let him do it the way he wanted. i only got 3 rusns but it looks like you guys were right as usual. when comparing to a few days ago which had less barometric pressure and more heat i picked up .2 and lost 1.5mph. i would think with the new clutch that is supposed to lock up while racing i would... i dunno... gain? mph?
moving on... his valvebody doesnt do ****. the hardest shift is park-drive and the 1-2 shitf at PART THROTTLE is much harder. i havent messed with torque management but i would think it would feel at least slightly firmer than stock at wot.
also i could only stall the stock 1800 converter to 1600 but i can stall this 2400 converter to 2600 (brake stall for both). with a decent burnout the tires dont spin at all at the track unless i stall it to 2500 and the place is about 100 miles away(not exagerating)and was highly reccomended by several people.
i am going to call them after work tomorrow and bitch my heart out. this is bullshit. they charged me 900 for the verter and 900 for labor and i only pick up .2 and -1.5mph and half the stuff the told me dosent even work the way it should. tomorrow ill post what bullshit excuse they give me on why they cant fix my valvebody and give me the converter i wanted in the first place.
about the mph and valvebody they said that i should get rid of torque management immediately and set the converter to lock up sooner at wot which will make my mph go up. i am going to buy edit, try that, and see what happens.
BTW, if you can brake stall to 2600, your converter's true stall is probably 3200 or higher.




