Tech Info, Codes, Coolers, Fluid Levels, Cooler Flush And More
03-20-2010, 02:01 PM
#62
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i really have no idea where to start with my problem.
I have very very firm shifts through all my gears. the 1-2 shift is insanely hard. the jerk will about snap your neck. i have no clue where to start...and it feels more like it gets "slammed" into gear rather than a firm shift on the 1-2.
I have very very firm shifts through all my gears. the 1-2 shift is insanely hard. the jerk will about snap your neck. i have no clue where to start...and it feels more like it gets "slammed" into gear rather than a firm shift on the 1-2.
04-23-2010, 10:40 AM
#63
That post about the LED's is a pretty neat idea.
Has anyone ever tried setting up the LED's so you can have 4 (one for each gear) instead of 2, with the correct light coming on depending on what gear the car is in?
Has anyone ever tried setting up the LED's so you can have 4 (one for each gear) instead of 2, with the correct light coming on depending on what gear the car is in?
05-15-2010, 03:06 AM
#66
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4L60E fluid level check ok, im tired of reading through all these posts to find an answer to this no brainer question:
i have a tranny slow to shift into 3rd and 4th (or not at all half the time). this is after swapping this trans and ls1 into a Jeep Wrangler. we have a good VSS signal and reverse works perfect all the time and 2nd gear comes on 99% of the time. it feels like low fluid level. normally i would check trans fluid with the car hot idling in park or neutral but ive read of two distinct methods for checking tranny fluid in the 4L60E.
first method (from a printed aftermarket workshop manual): warm it up till hot (drive it). park on level ground. run it through all the gears letting each gear engage for several seconds before going to the next. put the tranny in park. shut the engine off and check fluid level within 10 seconds (they make a BIG effort to stress this point). when i check fluid level this way i get a full reading at the top of the dipstick.
second method: same as above except leave it running in park at idle while checking. with this method it looks about 1qt (1 litre) or more low.
question is: can anyone confirm which is the correct method? i get consistent readings (although obviously different results) doing both versions but want to ensure correct fluid level before going off into other tangents of potential reasons for the shifting probs. thanks in advance!
i have a tranny slow to shift into 3rd and 4th (or not at all half the time). this is after swapping this trans and ls1 into a Jeep Wrangler. we have a good VSS signal and reverse works perfect all the time and 2nd gear comes on 99% of the time. it feels like low fluid level. normally i would check trans fluid with the car hot idling in park or neutral but ive read of two distinct methods for checking tranny fluid in the 4L60E.
first method (from a printed aftermarket workshop manual): warm it up till hot (drive it). park on level ground. run it through all the gears letting each gear engage for several seconds before going to the next. put the tranny in park. shut the engine off and check fluid level within 10 seconds (they make a BIG effort to stress this point). when i check fluid level this way i get a full reading at the top of the dipstick.
second method: same as above except leave it running in park at idle while checking. with this method it looks about 1qt (1 litre) or more low.
question is: can anyone confirm which is the correct method? i get consistent readings (although obviously different results) doing both versions but want to ensure correct fluid level before going off into other tangents of potential reasons for the shifting probs. thanks in advance!
05-15-2010, 10:26 AM
#67
ok, im tired of reading through all these posts to find an answer to this no brainer question:
i have a tranny slow to shift into 3rd and 4th (or not at all half the time). this is after swapping this trans and ls1 into a Jeep Wrangler. we have a good VSS signal and reverse works perfect all the time and 2nd gear comes on 99% of the time. it feels like low fluid level. normally i would check trans fluid with the car hot idling in park or neutral but ive read of two distinct methods for checking tranny fluid in the 4L60E.
first method (from a printed aftermarket workshop manual): warm it up till hot (drive it). park on level ground. run it through all the gears letting each gear engage for several seconds before going to the next. put the tranny in park. shut the engine off and check fluid level within 10 seconds (they make a BIG effort to stress this point). when i check fluid level this way i get a full reading at the top of the dipstick.
second method: same as above except leave it running in park at idle while checking. with this method it looks about 1qt (1 litre) or more low.
question is: can anyone confirm which is the correct method? i get consistent readings (although obviously different results) doing both versions but want to ensure correct fluid level before going off into other tangents of potential reasons for the shifting probs. thanks in advance!
i have a tranny slow to shift into 3rd and 4th (or not at all half the time). this is after swapping this trans and ls1 into a Jeep Wrangler. we have a good VSS signal and reverse works perfect all the time and 2nd gear comes on 99% of the time. it feels like low fluid level. normally i would check trans fluid with the car hot idling in park or neutral but ive read of two distinct methods for checking tranny fluid in the 4L60E.
first method (from a printed aftermarket workshop manual): warm it up till hot (drive it). park on level ground. run it through all the gears letting each gear engage for several seconds before going to the next. put the tranny in park. shut the engine off and check fluid level within 10 seconds (they make a BIG effort to stress this point). when i check fluid level this way i get a full reading at the top of the dipstick.
second method: same as above except leave it running in park at idle while checking. with this method it looks about 1qt (1 litre) or more low.
question is: can anyone confirm which is the correct method? i get consistent readings (although obviously different results) doing both versions but want to ensure correct fluid level before going off into other tangents of potential reasons for the shifting probs. thanks in advance!
The correct method is RUNNING IN PARK WARM the other method will not give and acurate reading and based on what you have said you are low on fluid and may have allready damaged your trans,
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09-02-2010, 01:49 AM
#68
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i really have no idea where to start with my problem.
I have very very firm shifts through all my gears. the 1-2 shift is insanely hard. the jerk will about snap your neck. i have no clue where to start...and it feels more like it gets "slammed" into gear rather than a firm shift on the 1-2.
I have very very firm shifts through all my gears. the 1-2 shift is insanely hard. the jerk will about snap your neck. i have no clue where to start...and it feels more like it gets "slammed" into gear rather than a firm shift on the 1-2.
02-11-2011, 03:44 PM
#70
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quick help? IAT sensor removal? I used the search function first. but it brought up a bunch of random threads almost none containing what I need to know.
I just need to remove the IAT sensor from the stock airbox. Does it just pull out? I really dont want to damage the thing.
I just need to remove the IAT sensor from the stock airbox. Does it just pull out? I really dont want to damage the thing.
02-15-2011, 06:46 PM
#72
Great Link for information on electrical causes for a 2-3 flare particulary if intermitant
http://www.sonnax.com/system/pdfs/13...pdf?1289926276
http://www.sonnax.com/system/pdfs/13...pdf?1289926276
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12-21-2011, 06:37 PM
#75
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1998 Trans Am - Cold Outside, shift out of park near impossible Lots of great info here, thanks! Hopefully I can find my answer here...
Something I've been trying to figure out forever it seems, and I see the same hopeless posts everywhere...years gone by with no answer.
When it gets cold outside, trying to get the shifter on my 1998 T/A out of park is torture. It's only park, and it's only the first start of the day (though it will stiffen up later on, depending on the temperature). I'm starting on a level surface, and it takes two hands, bear-gripping the button until the skin on my knuckles cracks. I've had mechanics call me confused and asking if I had some sort of lock on it. I had to tell them to just squeeze the life out of it or themselves to get it to move. They had no idea either.
It has to have something to do with expanding/contracting, and I doubt the button on the handle has anything to do with it. I've pulled it off the check and I've got no evidence. Everything is stock to boot. I don't know what to suspect. I let it warm up as long as I can, rev/pulse the engine up to about 2000 a few times, and it helps. But it's still a matter of strength and determination.
Do you have any clue, or can you point me to someone who might?
Something I've been trying to figure out forever it seems, and I see the same hopeless posts everywhere...years gone by with no answer.
When it gets cold outside, trying to get the shifter on my 1998 T/A out of park is torture. It's only park, and it's only the first start of the day (though it will stiffen up later on, depending on the temperature). I'm starting on a level surface, and it takes two hands, bear-gripping the button until the skin on my knuckles cracks. I've had mechanics call me confused and asking if I had some sort of lock on it. I had to tell them to just squeeze the life out of it or themselves to get it to move. They had no idea either.
It has to have something to do with expanding/contracting, and I doubt the button on the handle has anything to do with it. I've pulled it off the check and I've got no evidence. Everything is stock to boot. I don't know what to suspect. I let it warm up as long as I can, rev/pulse the engine up to about 2000 a few times, and it helps. But it's still a matter of strength and determination.
Do you have any clue, or can you point me to someone who might?
12-22-2011, 10:42 AM
#76
Lots of great info here, thanks! Hopefully I can find my answer here...
Something I've been trying to figure out forever it seems, and I see the same hopeless posts everywhere...years gone by with no answer.
When it gets cold outside, trying to get the shifter on my 1998 T/A out of park is torture. It's only park, and it's only the first start of the day (though it will stiffen up later on, depending on the temperature). I'm starting on a level surface, and it takes two hands, bear-gripping the button until the skin on my knuckles cracks. I've had mechanics call me confused and asking if I had some sort of lock on it. I had to tell them to just squeeze the life out of it or themselves to get it to move. They had no idea either.
It has to have something to do with expanding/contracting, and I doubt the button on the handle has anything to do with it. I've pulled it off the check and I've got no evidence. Everything is stock to boot. I don't know what to suspect. I let it warm up as long as I can, rev/pulse the engine up to about 2000 a few times, and it helps. But it's still a matter of strength and determination.
Do you have any clue, or can you point me to someone who might?
Something I've been trying to figure out forever it seems, and I see the same hopeless posts everywhere...years gone by with no answer.
When it gets cold outside, trying to get the shifter on my 1998 T/A out of park is torture. It's only park, and it's only the first start of the day (though it will stiffen up later on, depending on the temperature). I'm starting on a level surface, and it takes two hands, bear-gripping the button until the skin on my knuckles cracks. I've had mechanics call me confused and asking if I had some sort of lock on it. I had to tell them to just squeeze the life out of it or themselves to get it to move. They had no idea either.
It has to have something to do with expanding/contracting, and I doubt the button on the handle has anything to do with it. I've pulled it off the check and I've got no evidence. Everything is stock to boot. I don't know what to suspect. I let it warm up as long as I can, rev/pulse the engine up to about 2000 a few times, and it helps. But it's still a matter of strength and determination.
Do you have any clue, or can you point me to someone who might?
I would suspect an issue with the shifter cable
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