4L60E OPERATING TEMP?
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I used to Autotap my tranny temps constantly.
With my iron block, I was usually around 180F driving around, sometimes 175F.
After a pass I might get around 200F. If I hotlapped and did a 2nd run I'd hit 210F.
I would park the car at that point.
That's probably why my FLP level IV worked so well.
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These temps are making me think twice about that 3600 stall 'verter sitting in the garage.
I have the cooler mounted in front of the condenser.
Any ideas on what to do other than the 160 stat and lower fan temps?
These temps are making me think twice about that 3600 stall 'verter sitting in the garage.
I have the cooler mounted in front of the condenser.
Any ideas on what to do other than the 160 stat and lower fan temps?
Please make sure you do some ATAP testing on the city streets to see what really goes on. We put the tranny temp gauge in after we put my trans blanket on and I almost had a heart attack. It looks like daily driving with the tranny blanket retains an extra 15-20 degrees of heat in stop and go city/construction traffic.
If you routinely see temps heading up over 205 then it's time for a bigger cooler or in my case two coolers. I run a 19000 and 24000 daisy chained and it compensates nicely for the city driving. It's pretty rare for me to see above 195 at all now and I actually made 3 back to back to back runs at the track last Saturday without getting above 180.

So don't look at you WOT run temps and think you're safe all of the time. Do some sample testing when the converter is doing the stop and go shuffle before it has a chance to lock up. That's where you're real heat exposure is going to be.
Rick





