At the track Im going to be using ET Streets and on the street I will be using my street tires. (BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW) Im thinking of using anywhere from a 3500 to a 3800 stall speed with 98% efficiency and somewhere between 5400 and 5700 shift extension. (maybe a bit more on the shift extension, dont know yet) What STR should I get that will work good at the track and still be good on the street. The car is my daily driver, but I dont want that to discourage you from recommending me a good STR, so what would you say would be for the track and for the street? I know that the higher the STR, the harder Im going to have keeping the tires from breaking loose. I plan to drive the car normal on the street, with occansional racing, but I want to be strong at the track! Let me know what you think, thanks.

 

All cars will respond different. I went from a 3000 stall 2.0 str down to a 2400 stall 2.5 str and it drives much better and hooks and pulls hard. Contact some converter companies to get a converter that will work with your mods.

 

I have a ST3800 with a 2.7 str and can smoke ET streets through 3rd gear on the street. I would get a looser converter if you want to hook on the street.

 

Yank's SY3500 is a killer stall with a 1.61 str.It does good on the street and strip.With my 125hp dry nos & bolt-ons I got a 1.50 60'.I'm installing a Yank PT3800-str 2.7 this week.The SY3500 will be for sale($500).If interested my email is kjmor@comcast.net

 

Im not really worried about hooking on the street because doing so doesnt prove anything unless I do nothing but street racing. Anything probably over 2.5 is going to be hell trying to hook on the street. Im worried about whats going to happen at the track. Will I be spinning through the gears with heated ET Streets? Thats what I will be running when I do take it to the track.

 

Does STR have any affect on gas mileage? The higher the STR, the harder it will hit, but does that mean that it will feel like it has more power? I mean STR is basically multiplying the power from the motor by what number of STR and that power is transferred through the tranny. Knowing that, I would think that it would feel stronger. Thanks

 

Call Yank and talk to Mike. Fax him a complete list of mods and any other ones u might do in near future. He's very helpful
For me he recomended SY 3500.
Another option get a VIG 3200. It actually stalls closer to 3600+. VIG would re-stall ur TC for free for the first 2 years after purchase.

 

"For me he recomended SY 3500."

That's because he didn't realize you'll be running ET Streets at the track. That converter would totally SUCK *** on any semi-descent hooking track with ET Streets.

For cars with traction (as in, you're not running regular radial tires or on an oil soaked track), the higher the STR, the better. Even on the street it's not hard to keep from spinning...JUST USE LESS THROTTLE.

Gas mileage between STRs? The difference wouldn't be worth noting. Once the converter is locked, it doesn't matter what converter you have. Around town, the tighter the converter, the better. A higher STR will feel a bit tighter around town.

"I would get a looser converter if you want to hook on the street."

If you mean for WOT starts, that makes no sense. I higher stall is going to put you better into the power which will make the demand for traction even greater.

Fellas, about street racing with the different STRs. I once had a SY3500. Now true, with drag radials you could take off pretty much at WOT and not have to worry much about traction...and this was with 3.73 gears. The car only pulled a best of 1.71 60ft at the track with perfect traction. Now, I have 3.23s with a TCI 3500 (STR of 2.5) and I can EASILY out 60ft that old combo (60 ft of 1.61.) On the street, traction is still not much of a problem...I know how much throttle I can give it without spinning. It only takes a few practice launches and you know this.

 

This post is not intened to contradict the Colonel, but I just want to say that every dog does have it's day. The SY3500 that everyone says can't turn the stickies can do it in the right combination. I cut a best 1.48 60' with 3.73s 26x10x15 ET drags and 100 shot at the CZ28.Com Nationals 2 weeks ago. Not too bad for the swan song performance of this converter in my daily driver.

Colonel has properly documented why this is pretty rare though. Most everyone else steped up to a bigger converter before they had a chance to put down this kind of 60' with the SY3500. My best 60' before the 100 shot was 1.68Xs. So don't expect to see much better than that on any NA combinations.

It's fun on the street with DRs and it has weekend racer appeal for the drive up and race crowd, but it's not the consistant heavy hitter that the serious NA crowd is looking for.

Rick

 

"I cut a best 1.48 60' with 3.73s 26x10x15 ET drags and 100 shot..."

I understand and appreciate that your post wasn't intended to contradict me, and it doesn't. Your 100 shot of N2O easily explains the 1.48 60ft time. As you said, 1.68 is what you saw NA, which is very much inline with what I saw. Just keep in mind that with enough traction, an STR of 2.7 could have netted you 1.3s.

As far as the SY3500 goes with N2O, it's pretty good in some cases. It hits softer, which is what alot of people (those fighting for traction) need on the juice. The only bad thing about it on the juice is that it's low STR doesn't pull the RPMs back so far after shifts...which can be a good thing or a bad thing, depending on how much you're spraying, and your power range...among other factors. With it being only a 3500 stall, this isn't as much of a factor as if it were a 4000. A 4000 would tend to benefit more in this department (pulling the RPMs back into the meat of the power) from a higher STR than would the 3500.

Having said that, I agree with everything that Rick said.

 

Colonel,
You have personaly touch that issue with me before and you recomended I believe a TC with at least 3800 stall and 2.5 STR.
The only problem with my set up is that my Z is a daily driver and I run Yoko' AVS SPORT on the street. I will ONLY use the ET"s at the track.
Now bearing that in mind would'nt the SY 3500 with 1.61 STR be a better choice as far as my street driving is concerned? I know this will cost me in 60ft times at the track, but untill my Z becomes solely for races wouldn't the SY 3500 be a better choice. You're knowledge in this matter is of the outmost value to me. The only mods yet to come to get ready for fall are TC, trans cooler, and 100 NOS and either a Carbon fiber DS or an aluminum Lingenfelter one, (High speed stock DS vibrations)
I'm hoping to hit low 12's (Consistant) or at best high 11's.
Thanks a bunch

 

Sharky, a high STR doesn't make a converter less drivable. It makes it more drivable. The ONLY advantage that having that paltry 1.6 STR is going to give you is that you will have a better chance of not spinning when nailing it to the floor from a dead stop on the Yokos. That in itself is no big deal. Man, I used to drive my 525 RWHP Z28 on the street. It had a 4400 stall with a 2.7 STR, 3.89 gears, and 275/40/17 Nitto drag radials. If I slammed it to the floor, I could roast 'em for 100 yards easy. But, did that keep me from racing it on these little tires? No. I pulled a 1.51 60 ft time and consistanty pulled mid to high 1.5s with these tires. How? I just learned to drive it. It wasn't hard.

If I were you, the only way that I would get a low STR converter is if ALL of my racing were going to be done on the Yokos...otherwise, what's the point of even having the ET Streets? You're not going to have the power to turn 'em. You'll be the only guy out there pulling 1.6-7s on street slicks. The first time someone in the lane beside you with similar mods pulls a 1.4 60 ft to your 1.7, you'll be shelling out the dough to upgrade.

Another point, as I've mentioned before, the higher STR is a little better for N2O use, and you mentioned that you plan to spray it.

When choosing converters, STR is kinda like stall speed, people generally tend to keep changing upward.

So, in review, the pros of each...

High STR
Feels tighter on the street (Better drivability)
Hits alot harder at the track
Works better with nitrous
Gives your car more track potential
Works fine with low traction tires once you learn to work the throttle.
Won't make you want to trade up to a harder hitting converter as your desire to run quicker grows.

Low STR
Makes hooking with low traction tires learn free.

I would recommend an STR of at least 2.5 and a stall speed of 3500-3800 depending on just how tight you want it to feel on the street.

 

Thanks Colonel, I made up my mind and going to go with ur recomendations. How about YP 3600E what's its STR?

 

It has a 2.3 STR. It's a 258mm converter (this means it's a physically larger and thus, heavier converter) which gives it more "holding power" on the juice which simply means that it'll help keep the RPMs down after shifts which is great for running large shots of nitrous. Also great for large shots of nitrous are it's 6 bolt mounting lugs. These are totally not needed for smaller shots of nitrous.

For you, since you haven't voiced any plans to run 175 shot of nitrous or better, I'd recommend a converter better suited to awesome NA times. A SS3600 or SS3800 would be the best choice for maximum NA times and awesome drivability. It's smaller, lighter, and has a higher STR for maximum NA times but is still easily up to the task of a small to moderate shot (100-175 HP) of nitrous. It has a 21 blade stator which gives it better drivability than a standard stator (a 3800 will drive more like a 3500.) BTW, you can get the SS converters with 6-bolt mounting lugs if you'd like. It'll add a little extra strength insurance for if you ever plan on getting really serious with the power but it'll add just a little bit of weight to the converter.

For similar performance at a much lower price, check out TCI's 3500. It's what I run in my '02. I've been well pleased to say the least.

 

Nice, informative, and well explained on all the info! A little help for me if you dont mind Colenel? Ive been recommended converters ranging from 3200 to 3800 with a 2.5 STR. Before I even understood how converters and little factors worked, I told myself that I wanted a 3500 just because its sounded good. Anyhow, as I learned about how everything works, (Im not saying that I know it well and know it all), but Ive come to conclude that I want to run a 3800. As far as STR, pretty much everyone has recommended me a 2.5, but when I was getting those suggestions, I was worried about the street too much. I dont plan to do any serious street racing, so traction isnt that big of a deal for me. (on the street) What's really going to matter is what goes on at the track and having that in mind, I will definately be running ET Streets. If I was more worried about streetability (traction) on the street running drag radial or even street tires, then I would then go for a lower STR. I know if I have a high STR or anyone for that matter and run regular street tires, hell yeah theyre going to break loose! Anyhow, what Im trying to get at is what STR should I run that will be great at the track, but not too overwhelming on the street. Dont get me confused, Im not that worried about hooking on the street because I wont be running sticky tires because I cant afford to knowing they dont last. If most people have recommended me a 2.5 before I was mainly concerned about the track, I would guess it would definately be 2.5+. Lastly, if I have a 3800 (TCS) and a 200-R4, when will the converter lock up on the street when driving normal? (mph, rpm, gear) Thanks a lot and any help is much appreciated.

 

NV, go for the high STR for all of the reasons I've listed above. 2.5...even 2.7.

Converter lockup is not controlled by the converter. It's controlled by the computer (PCM or sometimes called ECM.) This lockup speed is programmed in and will not normally be effected by what size, brand, STR, or stall speed the converter is.

Go ahead, get the TCS 3800. You'll love it.

Just curious, but why are you going to a 200-R4?

 

Well this was the best lesson I got in a long time. Colonel you are a God
Taking into consideration money factor and quality, I'm gonna go with TCI 3500 as you said.
Thanks so much for your time and the superb (not to mention patient) contribution of your knowledge.
This one's to your health

 

Dam, I wish they had The Superstreet Fighter converter out before I purchased my TCI 2800 some years back. Im way slow.

 

2.5 was what I had my mind set, but after all the reading and holding off to see what I will come across, Im thinking that 2.5 will be the least. Im not sure how big of a difference its going to make going from a 2.5 to a 2.6 or 2.7, but would you go over 2.7? I figured that 2.5 is going to be plenty, but what do I know, Ive never owned an automatic. You also say that converter lock up is controlled by the PCM, but what if the tranny that Im going to be using isnt computer conrtolled, when does it lock up then? The car is currently an M6, but waiting for the 200-R4 conversion. The reason why Im going with this tranny is because its a lighter, smaller, much stronger tranny than the 4L60E. I hear even guys with a built 4L60E still break them and after time have to keep refreshing them. Plus Ive heard nothing but good about 200-R4s and how strong they are when built right. I like the fact that theyre smaller and lighter because I wont have as much drivetrain loss as I would if I was going to a 4L60E. Not only that, but I wont have to worry about any PCM swapping or programming. Then another thing, I hear that if you are going from an M6 to the 200-R4, the conversion is much easier and cheaper. I dont have an auto regardless, so I might as well buy a strong built one than a 4L60E. Im sure that in the long run it will be cheaper.

 

I emailed you on the converter!!