my number 1 hater

iTrader: (4)

It was built in 03 and set in a crate it late 07 .. I got it from my buddy ( for free ) So im sure there is not going to be Warranty. I think he got it from a guy in Dallas.

Gilbert@Ace Racing

To answer the OP's original question about purchasing individual components, the answer is yes. Any transmission supply house can get anything you need... but I know Dana (PBA) sells parts as well.

We rarely sell individual components and/or overhaul packages.

Good Luck!

g

my number 1 hater

iTrader: (4)

Cleaned up my shop and got to work ... This trans has some burnt fluid its more black than red, not like sludge just burnt. Also pulled the valve body and one of the small filters is missing half of its screen????

my number 1 hater

iTrader: (4)

If i dont have to buy hard parts, what kind on price should a good rebuild kit run me?

ws6t3rror

iTrader: (3)

Going to run about 200-250 depending on what you get, but that should cover alot of the basic rebuild kits. There are a few hardparts I consider to be mandatory upgrades though. For clutches I like the borg warner high energy stuff. I'm trying thier 3-4 pack on my latest trans on pba's advice, but have had great success with the z-pack before there.

Don't use a kevlar band imo they're too hard. Do use a wide band. Also do use one with a reenforced lug. So you can use big billet 2 and 4 servos and eliminate the 3rd accumulator. Alot of shops wont spend the money here, or they consider the corvette is good enough. Its just something I like to do and it has eliminated band failure for me.

The places you're going to run into trouble on your own is with the bushings, imo they should be changed every time. Also resizing the teflon sealing rings on the pump and input drum are difficult for new builders without propper tools.Tight tolorences are the mark of a good trans build. Set your 3-4 pack tight on clearance, throw the load release springs away, or buy the transgo tougher ones. I like to just throw them away. The stock stuff is only good for stock clutches.

382ssz28

iTrader: (24)

I beg to differ with PBA on steel thickness, not to start a war, but to talk about Kinetic Energy. This IS the transference of heat. I have been building for 32 years out of Detroit to let you know I have experienced this problem since 82 when the 700 was introduced and had major issues. I also have used the high energy frictions and believe in them. I have seen the "Red Lined" frictions used since the 60's in all sorts of race cars which were made from Redwood trees, banned now. I have been experimenting with my own 4L75E for 3 years with the Red Devils, Alto Reds and High Energy, combined with the Kolene Steels @ .106" thick and 6-7 frictions at 670 RWHP on a 4200lb car and driver running 10.90's @ 126mph. Probably more than most people have on the street. I don't believe that it's the responsibility of the friction to hold enough oil that causes the thin steels to warp, but the thickness of the steels themselves. This is Kinetic Energy, "the transference of heat". It is obvious a good material must be used for a friction in a high perf application. But the set-up is the critical part. The atf has 3 parts in this discussion. First, lubricant, 2nd, hydraulic, 3rd, heat dissipation. The atf is sent through the trans to draw the heat from the metal parts and carried to the cooler, cooled and reintroduced to do it all over again. The thin steels aren't strong enough to take the Flash Heating that occures during a hard throttle shift. This is why the thin steels warp. The other problem is clutch surface area. There just isn't enough. Some guys may have some luck in using the thin steels, getting the clutch pack set up just right, and having a trans with little or no parasitic drag or apply, (leakage). Every trans is different and some have more porosity than others. There isn't much a builder can do about that. We do the best we can with what a customer brings us. Remember, these parts are mass produced with a budget in mind. I stay between .020" and .030" for clearances in the 3-4 pack. I use the Kolene steels @ .106" thick with 6-7 frictions. I've got these trannies behind bigblocks and smallblocks with N20, turbos, superchargers, etc... I am not the Gods All Savior!!! This is what works for me. My issue is with the thickness of steels and the transference of heat from those steels. Just an opinion.

my number 1 hater

iTrader: (4)

Pulled the input drum and found!!!!!! The teeth that hold the large (3 and 4 clutch) snap ring where broken off.. So that snap ring and the cluthes where just about to fall out of the input drum.

Also i cant seem to get photo bucket to down load/ HTML my pics.. Is there some other way to post them up... This thread is worthless with out pics

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Email them to me and I will host them performabuilt@yahoo.com and then will give you link to go copy and paste them back here

my number 1 hater

iTrader: (4)

Send them to you tm after church... Thanks

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Heres where they are just copy the picture and paste it wherever you like on the forum
http://www.performabuilt.com/dumontpics.html

Superado

iTrader: (34)

the shop that went through mine put a kevlar band in...
could this have had any effect on my current status of having no 3-4?

thanks...

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

No the kevlar ban would have no affect on the 3-4 clutch set,

Superado

iTrader: (34)

hijak not intended...just some good info here and wanted to keep it going...

dropped tranny off at shop this morning...
tear down revealed burnt up 3-4 clutches, band and warped reverse drum...
thorough inspection and rebuild starting tomorrow...