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Is my trany on the way out??

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Old 05-25-2008, 06:05 PM
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Default Is my trany on the way out??

I attended a small A&W cruise night and did about an hours worth of cruising around in town. Speeds ranging from 50-80... and once 120
Anyways... all seemed peachy until I stopped at a street light on the way home.
The vehicles in front of me started to move and when I started to move with them, my car reved to around 2500rpms and I hardly moved.
I quirky dropped into and 3rd and the same thing.
I dropped to 1st and cleared the intersection and was ready to go into 2nd at around 25km/h... only I was doing 50km/h @ around 2200rpms.
I slipped into second, but the trany didn't shift because I was already in second. So I let off and reduced speed to 40km/h and dropped to 1st... no change, 2nd, 1st, 2nd, let off, stab the throttle.... still in 2nd.
I sighed and pulled into the driveway, stopped and tried the car in drive again.
Hardly moved @ 2500rpm again, 1st gear felt the same as second again so I parked for the night and pouted. lol

Next day I took the car around the block after work. Everything seemed fine.
In drive the trany shifted as normal so I thought maybe the trany got hot and hopefully it would be okay... only not the case as I found out yesterday.
I got about 5 minutes out of town, had brunch and started heading back into town and the trany did the same thing as before when I stopped for construction.
This time when I manually shifted from drive to 2nd, there was a firm clunk. I shifted back into drive and another clunk.

I talked to a trany shop and he said it sounded like the forward band or something (could have miss heard him) could be slipping.

A stock rebuild and install is around 2100-2200 or a more street and strip build for around 2700-2800 install that will hold 500hp.
I don't know how much hp/torque I'm putting out, but I would guesstimate just under 400whp, but may be a bit conservative.

It was mentioned to me that I should either goto a race built trany to support future engine output, or attempt a 4L80E conversion...

Is there someone here who can maybe share some pro's and con's with the 80 series upgrade as well as tell me what I'll need exactly to do the conversion?
It could very well help me decide which path I would go... either way I'd be having a shop to all the trany work but I'd need to be able to tell them I need blah, blah, blah parts, do this to the drive shaft, ect, ect.. because I'm certain they've never done one of these swaps before.


Unless this doesn't sound like a trany issue in which I'm open to theories and/or possible solutions!!
Old 05-25-2008, 09:18 PM
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Sounds like yo went into limp mode this may just be and electrical failure, You need to get the car scanned for codes first thing
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Old 05-25-2008, 11:06 PM
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So there's still hope?

I do get a random miss fire code now and then but I haven't scanned the car since and pretty much have been ignoring the check engine light because of it....
Old 05-26-2008, 11:51 AM
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Yes theres still hope get those codes and post them up.
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Old 05-26-2008, 05:45 PM
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Code P0300 - Random Multiple Cylinder Missfire
Code P0757 - Shift Solenoid B Stuck On


I have been told the the missfire code can be caused from aftermarket cams, but I don't really understand what the second code meens, or how to solve it from happening again?
Old 05-26-2008, 06:00 PM
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I believe the second code is a tranny code. If you are in drive and your engine is revving and you aren't going very fast then your tranny may need to be rebuilt. If your tranny does need to be rebuilt I would say go with the street/strip rebuild. It will save you money in the long run.
Old 05-26-2008, 06:04 PM
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If yu have not had the car tuned for the stall have this done first also you should have the test for that code removed Its a common code that will result in limp mode with a stall over 2800 rpm. And IMO should always be remove when a stall over 2800 is installed
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Old 05-26-2008, 07:53 PM
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I let my friend do the tuning on his laptop, but honestly he hasn't tuned a vehicle with a high stall before mine.
He took a setup very similar to mine and used that as a base.

Can the missfire and the P0757 code safely be deleted/disabled permanently?

Any other suggestions on how to program for a stall, where to set shift points, **** pressure, shift time, ect would be fantabulous

I haven't had any problems with the trany really slipping as in revving and bot going anywhere besides feeling like its stuck in 3rd or drive when I'm trying to move from a stand still. Like the trany isn't say "woah I'm still in drive, I better take off in first"
Although it sorta happened with not wanting to go into 1st, even when manually shifting. It seemed to go no lower than 2nd no matter how many times I tired.
Yet after sitting for a while like over night, it would work fine in the morning for a bit, then act up after say 15-20km's.

Should I change the solenoids or anything else as well while I'm as it?
Old 05-27-2008, 01:58 AM
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Delete the PO757 code and raise missfire cable to max you should be fine.
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Old 05-27-2008, 07:35 AM
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Thank you ever so much!

If have problems in the future... what would one of your transmissions cost shipped to canada? (roughly)
I'm looking at about 2100-2250 for a 500hp rated rebuild of my trany locally, plus sending out my converter to be inspected and/or rebuilt or replaced... not including install. The downside is that I might reach that 500hp limit a few years from now and I'd like to only have to replace the damn thing once. :\
Old 05-27-2008, 07:02 PM
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km/h.......?hehe i never look at that side of the speedo.
Old 05-27-2008, 08:43 PM
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Even the OLD cap'n James T. Kirk Star Trek episodes from the 60's used km's!
You gotta step out of the 50's my friend...

Code disabled and the other table was editied a few minutes ago.
Trans fluid temp reached 199º with in town cruising and one or two stabs at the skinny petal.
What is the normal opperating range?
Old 05-27-2008, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Rede
Thank you ever so much!

If have problems in the future... what would one of your transmissions cost shipped to canada? (roughly)
I'm looking at about 2100-2250 for a 500hp rated rebuild of my trany locally, plus sending out my converter to be inspected and/or rebuilt or replaced... not including install. The downside is that I might reach that 500hp limit a few years from now and I'd like to only have to replace the damn thing once. :\
The price shipped to canada for any of our units except the 4l80e is 200 dollars more than the listed price on the site. However depending on how fa you live from the border many of our CA customers have us ship to terminal close to border and just come to US and pickup
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Old 05-28-2008, 01:12 AM
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