Converter install how hard?
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I will be getting a converter sometime, and I am wondering how hard it would be to install it myslef. Im sure its pretty involved so does anyone have a nice write up for it? And any tips and tricks would greatly be appreciated.
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Ive done a clutch swap which includes changing the flexplate, pressure plate, disk, slave, pilot bearing, and clutch master. Ive never actually done a converter swap (just tranny swap), but if I was to guess and Im sure Im not that off...you would have to remove the driveshaft off the tail of the tranny, remove all lines, fitting, connections, sensors, etc. off the tranny, place a floor jack with some blocks of wood (or whatever it takes to get a nice contact under the tranny and will suppport it) or a tranny jack if you have one, and place it under the tranny. Unbolt the tranny, slowly pull back on it towards the rear of the car, after doing that it should come off of the input shaft (or it might be the output shaft, I get
), then unbolt the existing converter off of the flextplate and replace it with the new one. Im not sure if all of this is correct, but Im sure that its fairly close. I know that someone will chime in a fill in the blanks. I hope this helps a little.
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Oh...I believe that all the linkage has to be removed. Another thing that I forgot to mention, youll have to remove the console that way you can remove the shifter. The tranny crossmember will have to be removed also to drop the tranny. Man...I forget a lot of stuff dont I!
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#4
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y pipe, torque arm,
all kinds of crap
its time consuming,
but easy
just dont strip or break any bolts
and be careful with the ones that are subject to lots of heat, like the exhaust manifolds/y pipe and the three bolts that are on the TC.
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Thanks StoneOfFire, I knew that I was going to leave out something. The things that you listed are some of the first things you need to do. I guess I took the question wrong and assumed that he already knew that stuff had to be removed. Anyhow, Im hoping this all helps. If I were you and wanted to save some money, Id say do it yourself with maybe a hand or 2. Its not hard at all, just time consuming.
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Oh...I believe that all the linkage has to be removed. Another thing that I forgot to mention, youll have to remove the console that way you can remove the shifter. The tranny crossmember will have to be removed also to drop the tranny. Man...I forget a lot of stuff dont I!
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Remove-
1. Y-pipe
2.Drive shaft and tourqe arm
3. all electrical connections and fluid lines and linkage
4. unbolt trans crossmember (let trans hang down)
5. unbolt trans dipstick tube
6. unbolt and remove starter
7. unbolt converter bolts(use a large flat head screw driver to turn flex plate)
8. unbolt top most bolts then use jack to level the trans and unbolt lower bolts
9. pull trans away from engine (there are dowels)
10. converter will pull from input shaft use greese on input shaft and install new converter.
I have assisted 2 mustang A4 swaps and done the one on my car by myself so its not too bad now. it took me about 10 hours on the camaro.
1. Y-pipe
2.Drive shaft and tourqe arm
3. all electrical connections and fluid lines and linkage
4. unbolt trans crossmember (let trans hang down)
5. unbolt trans dipstick tube
6. unbolt and remove starter
7. unbolt converter bolts(use a large flat head screw driver to turn flex plate)
8. unbolt top most bolts then use jack to level the trans and unbolt lower bolts
9. pull trans away from engine (there are dowels)
10. converter will pull from input shaft use greese on input shaft and install new converter.
I have assisted 2 mustang A4 swaps and done the one on my car by myself so its not too bad now. it took me about 10 hours on the camaro.
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so its pretty straight forward just time consuming? I think me and my buddies can handle it. I kinda have access to a lift, so I think ill try to use it for the converter swap
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check out www.modernmusclecars.net for a very detailed, with pictures, by the numbers install. I did it two weeks ago having never done it before. Pay attention to the tools you'll need. It it is all right there. Nuf said.
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removal is very straight forward
everything blocking the transmission..needs to be disconnected or moved
you don't take off the Y-pipe...you remove the hanger assembly
the bitch of things....are disconnecting the cooler lines since you don't have much play in them
and also...get enough extensions and a swivel socket/universal to reach the top two bolts on the transmission
everything blocking the transmission..needs to be disconnected or moved
you don't take off the Y-pipe...you remove the hanger assembly
the bitch of things....are disconnecting the cooler lines since you don't have much play in them
and also...get enough extensions and a swivel socket/universal to reach the top two bolts on the transmission
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Tip: Do not use any sort of grease or petroleum base type lubricants inside your trans.
You'll run a very high risk of plugging some of the many fine screens, orifices or even a shift solenoid with coagulated schmang type fluid buggers... This is referred to as "shooting oneself in thy foot"
Use trany fluid! ... If you're sticking up some check ***** while doing a valve body mod use "Trans gel" or "Trans Goo" or something equivalent. Most parts stores have a few variations of a compatible assembly lubricant.
... Ron
You'll run a very high risk of plugging some of the many fine screens, orifices or even a shift solenoid with coagulated schmang type fluid buggers... This is referred to as "shooting oneself in thy foot"
Use trany fluid! ... If you're sticking up some check ***** while doing a valve body mod use "Trans gel" or "Trans Goo" or something equivalent. Most parts stores have a few variations of a compatible assembly lubricant.
... Ron
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Ive done a clutch swap which includes changing the flexplate, pressure plate, disk, slave, pilot bearing, and clutch master. Ive never actually done a converter swap (just tranny swap), but if I was to guess and Im sure Im not that off...you would have to remove the driveshaft off the tail of the tranny, remove all lines, fitting, connections, sensors, etc. off the tranny, place a floor jack with some blocks of wood (or whatever it takes to get a nice contact under the tranny and will suppport it) or a tranny jack if you have one, and place it under the tranny. Unbolt the tranny, slowly pull back on it towards the rear of the car, after doing that it should come off of the input shaft (or it might be the output shaft, I get
), then unbolt the existing converter off of the flextplate and replace it with the new one. Im not sure if all of this is correct, but Im sure that its fairly close. I know that someone will chime in a fill in the blanks. I hope this helps a little.
![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
You were spot on with the rest but you definately do NOT want to pull the trans with the converter still bolted to the flywheel. You risk several things:
1: Bending the transmission input shaft.
2: Damaging the TCC apply seals.
3: Damaging the inside of the converter.
Also when installing the new converter, it's critical to ensure that it engages properly on the input shaft and into the front pump. If it doesn't, the trans will fry almost instantly. This is impossible to do if the converter is bolted to the flexplate before trans installation.
The correct way is to remove the inspection cover, and starter, and unbold the 3 converter bolts first. The bolts can be aligned with the rather small window by turning the crank bolt with a ratchet and socket and turning the whole motor over.
Also, the A-4's can be dropped very easily with the Y-pipe in place since they only need to move back about 1 inch, unlike the M6 trans where the input shaft has to a few inches before being free.
Also resist the temptation to do the (edit: easy) bolts first on the bellhousing. Get the top ones first and when you're ready to actually drop the trans the only 2 bolts holding it on will be easy to access. You will need to drop the torque arm and X-member first. Then the trans can drop a few inches giving you access to the topmost bolts. Bring swivels
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Be sure to get NEW torque converter bolts, torque them to spec, and use some RED loctite.
Enjoy
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(PS, make sure you put 1-2 quarts in the new TC before sliding it on the input shaft)
Edit: You will also need to remove some of the O2 sensors from the Y-pipe. Be cautious not to touch any part of the O2 sensor beyond the threads, nor allow them in contact with any chemical. I reccomend labeling them, removing them, and putting them in cardboard box or something until they are ready for re-installation. Resist the urge to clean them at all costs
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