4L60e with motor oil in it...
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first let me start by saying...I DIDNT DO IT!!!!!!!!
and ....yes im new here...
ok i just got this car last night....1995 T/A LT1 4L60E (so i was told)
i got the car knowing i might need to replace the trans but dont want to if i dont have to.
the motor was rebuild due to a blown head gasket.
when they put the motor back in they bent the trans dip stick tube(im guessing that how they did it.)
so driving the car it has to run up to almost redline befor it shifts to second. from second to 3rd you have to feather the gas pedal a little at high rpms or it feels like it goes into neutral.
so i couldnt get the dip stick in the tube to see if it was low on fluid or see if it smelled burnt. so i took the dipstick and cut off the ball looking bend on the end of it so it wouldnt get jamed in the tube.... i get it in all the way and pull it out... to my suprise it looks and smells like motor oil with maybe 20 miles on it... do you think the trans is hurt?>
think i can drain the pan and fill it up with trans fluid, run it a few miles and repeat till all the oil is out?
thanks.
and ....yes im new here...
ok i just got this car last night....1995 T/A LT1 4L60E (so i was told)
i got the car knowing i might need to replace the trans but dont want to if i dont have to.
the motor was rebuild due to a blown head gasket.
when they put the motor back in they bent the trans dip stick tube(im guessing that how they did it.)
so driving the car it has to run up to almost redline befor it shifts to second. from second to 3rd you have to feather the gas pedal a little at high rpms or it feels like it goes into neutral.
so i couldnt get the dip stick in the tube to see if it was low on fluid or see if it smelled burnt. so i took the dipstick and cut off the ball looking bend on the end of it so it wouldnt get jamed in the tube.... i get it in all the way and pull it out... to my suprise it looks and smells like motor oil with maybe 20 miles on it... do you think the trans is hurt?>
think i can drain the pan and fill it up with trans fluid, run it a few miles and repeat till all the oil is out?
thanks.
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Well if someone put motor oil in the trans , I am not sure how that would happen , It would not immediately cause any damage and would have to be more than a quart or two to even have and noticeable affect. But are you sure someone put motor oil in it and its not actually just badly burned trans fluid which may look and smell about the same
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i think im going to drop the pan and see how things look. change the filter and fill with the right fluid to see what happens.
im almost positive its motor oil. and i think it is all motoroil and not trans fluid.
how much damage would it cause if it is motor oil?
im almost positive its motor oil. and i think it is all motoroil and not trans fluid.
how much damage would it cause if it is motor oil?
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Well it would take a while to actually cause damage depending on the SAE thicker would be bad. I just cant imagine anyone knowingly putting oil in a trans, Now I have seen it done accidentally with a quart added during a top off and if thats what happened I wouldn't be worried at all. Now since you said you bought it expecting trans trouble then and the owner was aware of this is possible someone could have put some sort of additive in the trans hoping to limp it along further maybe ?
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I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say that the fluid your are looking at is very old transmission fluid that has broken down and the unit is burnt up. What does it smell like? Does it have a pungeant odor... old tranny fluid will actually take on an amber tint.
g
g
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sounds like old *** trans fluid to me but i too have seen people do some stupid crap under the hood (ie putting motor oil in the radiator type stuff) so if an idiot had the car it is possiable. Instead of droping the pan just unhook the trans line and put it into a bucket, start the car and let the trans pump the old fluid out. DONT LET IT GO DRY/EMPTY. Run the car for a min or two then turn it off and add fluid to the trans and repeat untill the fluid coming out of the trans is bright red just like the color of the fluid your putting into the trans. Drive the car and see how it shifts/work, if it seems ok then i would say drain and drop the pan so you can change the filter, cause if the fluid is that dark that filter is shot, this will also give you a chance to see the bottom of the trans pan to see what kind of junk is at the bottom and will give you a decent idea of what abuse the trans has seen. Could take a pic of the trans pan gunk and post it for others to see and give their opinion on if its time for a rebuild or not..
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to me burnt trans fluid smell like electronics melting...just my opinion, but i would drain the pan and try it with goor trans fluid first. may just buy you enough time to get a new one.
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ok i got the pan off and i cant find my camera. the fluid is a milkey white color with a very faint red tint to it.
the magnet in the bottom of the pan has a thin coat of metal on it(dust)
im guessing its from the clutches.
i am going to get a new filter and gasket tonight and put it back together tomorrow. i have seen more metal shavings than that in a th350 and it still work.
i also got a drain bung kit i am going to install befor i put it back up
and sudjestions on what corner of the pan i should put it on?
thanks
i set some fluid aside so when i find the camera i can post it.
the magnet in the bottom of the pan has a thin coat of metal on it(dust)
im guessing its from the clutches.
i am going to get a new filter and gasket tonight and put it back together tomorrow. i have seen more metal shavings than that in a th350 and it still work.
i also got a drain bung kit i am going to install befor i put it back up
and sudjestions on what corner of the pan i should put it on?
thanks
i set some fluid aside so when i find the camera i can post it.
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Typically a milky white fluid condition means that there is excessive moisture in the unit. Of course it could be contaminated from something other than water.
Unfortunately, many times when excessive moisture is introduced to an automatic it wreaks havoc on the soft parts. They can swell up, the friction material boning agent can release and so on.
Definitely try to refill it and see what happens. But, I am afraid this unit has had it based on the symptoms you described earlier.
As far as the drain plug. Place it in the center of the pan towards the front or rear rail.
It really isn't that critical. The key is to do it correctly so that it does not leak.
Give us an update once you get it back up and running!
g
Unfortunately, many times when excessive moisture is introduced to an automatic it wreaks havoc on the soft parts. They can swell up, the friction material boning agent can release and so on.
Definitely try to refill it and see what happens. But, I am afraid this unit has had it based on the symptoms you described earlier.
As far as the drain plug. Place it in the center of the pan towards the front or rear rail.
It really isn't that critical. The key is to do it correctly so that it does not leak.
Give us an update once you get it back up and running!
g
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ok mi got it apart. i decided to puttl the 2 selonoids tward the rear to check them out (manily because i never seen them befor)
any ways the one on the driver side i removed the clip and it poped right out so i let the little fluid drain out and pulled the valve looking thing out let it drain some more and put it back together.
i pulled the clip off the one on the pass. side and it didnt want to come out. i finally got it out trying not to brake it. the valve thing didnt want to come out. i could stick my finger in there and feel it but it didnt want to come out. with the filter removed i worked it out through the slots in the valve body and got it out. now my question is... is it suppose to shave a spring pushing on it? when i got it out it is in 2 pieces. is it suppose to be in 2 pieces or 1 like the other side?
thanks. if it is suppose to have a spring or be one piece does any one know the part number for it? so i can order an new one.
any ways the one on the driver side i removed the clip and it poped right out so i let the little fluid drain out and pulled the valve looking thing out let it drain some more and put it back together.
i pulled the clip off the one on the pass. side and it didnt want to come out. i finally got it out trying not to brake it. the valve thing didnt want to come out. i could stick my finger in there and feel it but it didnt want to come out. with the filter removed i worked it out through the slots in the valve body and got it out. now my question is... is it suppose to shave a spring pushing on it? when i got it out it is in 2 pieces. is it suppose to be in 2 pieces or 1 like the other side?
thanks. if it is suppose to have a spring or be one piece does any one know the part number for it? so i can order an new one.
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i guess im going to look aof a rebuildable t56... i figure if i have to rebuild one i might as well get the one i want. what is the highest i should pay for a core?
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You're going to swap the auto for a manual?
T-56 cores can be expensive. I have paid as much as $350.00 for a decent late model core.
4L60E cores can run as much as $250.00
g
T-56 cores can be expensive. I have paid as much as $350.00 for a decent late model core.
4L60E cores can run as much as $250.00
g
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ya im going to check the rad. i have to get my other project out of the garage so i can get this one in there. i should be working on it in another week or 2.
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ya i dont care much for auto. i have a th350 core i need to get rid of to. just sittin in the way. i called a local yard and they said if i could find the trans i want on there yard they would give it to me with a warranty for $75. cant beat that!