I was talking to Power House Performance and they suggested that the problem could be a bent/tweeked pressure plate. Would a tweeked presure plate cause it hard to shift into gear at WOT? How would I go about finding out if the pressure plate it tweeked or not? I had the clutch for a year now, do you think Cartek would help me out if they sent me a tweeked pressure plate? I did send them an email, and left a voice message. What do you guys think? The car shifts fine under noraml driving, but if I get into high RPM's the car is a bitch to shift into gear. <img border="0" alt="[bomb]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_bomb.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

<small>[ April 16, 2003, 05:26 PM: Message edited by: MAFs 00 Ws6 ]</small>

 

Will it shift into gear ok when the engine is off? I have seen this problem on an lt1 car where it was nearly impossible to shift (very high shift effort....like 25 lbs or so) to get it into any gear. It was a clutch problem in that case and a new clutch fixed it right up. Checking of it will shift ok with the motor off may give clues as to the type of problem that you are having (don't run out for a new clutch just yet). I suspect the clutch is not disengaging fully and is dragging the flywheel and making it hard to shift....but let us know what you find out.

It is very likely not your choice of fluid.

 

The car shifts into gear w/out a problem when the car is off. When the car is running it a bit harder, and when I get into high RPMs (4500+) the car will not go into gear at all. I have to hold it and then it finally lets me in. Its killing my times @the track. I can't get it into 3rd @ WOT. Any ideas?????????? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

 

Anyone????

 

Chances are your clutch isn't releasing. When a synchro is trying to slow down trans gears, and a flywheel assy. & engine, it's not going to do the job.

drill mod it, bleed it damn good and see if it improves. If not, try a larger bore master (01 or mcleod.) That's where I'd start.

 

Dude, My car is doing the EXACT same thing. I'll shoot you an email tomorrow to see if you have had any luck trying to find a fix, but here is my post about it...

https://ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/ulti...c;f=2;t=006495

 

Thanks for the post everyone, really do appreciate it. I was thinking about trying to install a McCloud master, but am weary, due to hearing about how many people have had problems with faulty units, but all I have heard was praise about them once they were in. How would you even go about checking to see if the pressure plate is causing the issue? I did write Cartek on Friday, so we will see if they respond back today.

black00WS6: Man I thought I was the only one. Well hopefully we will be able to figure out a fix.

Thanks again everyone. I will post what Cartek says when they respond.

 

sounds like you clutch isn't disengaging fully you might need to adjust the master cylinder you have an adjustable master in your cartek kit right have you tried it??

Jay

 

-> Yes I did have the pedal adjusted up really high last year, while I was breaking in the clutch. Now that the clutch is pretty much broken in I was able to move the pedal down, but the results are the same. Good @normal driving, Unable to get car in gear @WOT/high RPMs. I just can't figure it out. I am waiting to hear back from Cartek, I will keep writing them until I hear back, I will keep everyone posted as to what they might think the problem is. Thanks again everyone, really do appreciate the help.

 

It's possible the pressure plate is warped. They normally build a taper to the inside with use, and this can lead to requiring more plate lift (travel) to get good disengagement. This is pretty normal for clutches over time, the more they are slipped and build heat, the more warp will occur. If adjusting the master doesn't help, its probably clutch time.

 

Recv'd a call from Dave/Cartek
-> Dave stated that the issue is caused by the master not being adjusted correctly. Dave is sending me the correct procedure for adjusting out the pedal. Dave said that the correct way to adjust the pedal up is to adjust the rod down until only a few threads are showing, pump the pedal 20 times. Now with two hands [Left hand holding clutch, Right hand adjusting rod up] adjust the rod up to stock position. This should resolve the issue.

I'll post the procedure once Dave sends it to me.

I will try this out tonight, and let you guys know how it turns out.

 

Man, I am so geeked <img border="0" alt="[jester]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" /> I adjusted the master as Dave/Cartek stated and the car went into gear no problem @5500 RPMs. Man its such a great feeling....All I can say is Cartek's new way of adjusting the Master is fool proof. Start with the clutch pedal in stock position, adjust the rod down until there are a few threads showing, pump the clutch 20 times, then adjust the the rod up back to stock. Start her up and let her rip. Thanks again for everyone's help, really do appreciate it. <img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

 

glad you got it all worked out congrats

jay

 

Hey Mike thanks for posting the results we really like it when folks do that.

 

My ?? is.Where is the stock position is it all the way back down. Meaning no threads showing?? I'm have the same problem.Can you be alittle more detailed in how to do it? Thanks

<small>[ April 18, 2003, 05:25 AM: Message edited by: CamSS00 ]</small>

 

ttt

 

Thanks everyone... <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> NP ProStock anything for you man.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Cam00SS -> As for the exact Stock position I am not too sure since I adjusted the clutch pedal up so far, I basically guessed, but here is how I guessed. I checked the position of the clutch on my winter car. Then I adjusted the cruise control switch back down, to where a few threads are showing, maybe 3 or 4. Mainly you want the clutch pedal a little above the brake pedal. Once you get the pedal to this length, you can now start adjusting the rod down until there is about 3-4 threads showing. Next you want to pump the pedal 20 times, now you can back under and startc adjusting the pedal back up. Dave/Cartek stated that you should use 2 hands one on the pedal so you can feel it moving up back to the stock postion. I did not use this technique due to the postion that I was in adjusting the master rod. So I justed adjusted the rod out to where a good amount of threads were showing, tightened the nut down and it worked great. So what I would do is adjust it out to where you think that it is good, go out and try it. You will notice right away if it is good or not, by where the clutch engages. Mine use to engae right off the floor, but now it engages a bit higher, so I now know that the disc is fully disengaged by the time my foot hits the floor. These are probably horriable instructions, but I believe the main thing is if you adjusted the cruise control switch up any (Its the plastic switch that the clutch rests on under the dash, you will know what I am talking about when you see it) move it back down, if you didn't then the pedal should sit in the stock position. After that its just adjusting the pedal out far enough. When I was adjusting it out, I heard a clink like noise when the was adjusted out, then I went 1/2 turn down after the noise. Its not as hard as it might seem. The key thing is to get the pedal a little above the brake oedal, after that its just simply adjusting the rod out far enough. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

<small>[ April 18, 2003, 02:14 PM: Message edited by: MAFs 00 Ws6 ]</small>

 

I never heard of anyone adjusting the little plastic adjuster under the dash to the cruise control. Hmmm! I was asking you about this due to my clutch slips and all say its all in the adjustment. You mentioned a new way to adjust so I wanted to try it out. How about copy pasting the instructions Dave sent ya? My pedal is already above the brake pedal and grabs a bit off the floor. As per your instructions nothing changes with my clutch. hmmm.... However I did notice that I can adjust the height of the pedal w/o touching the cruise adjuster by adjusting the master.

 

Dave, nevver did send me the instructions on how excatly to do it, but if you never moved the cruise control switch then your clutch is still in its stock position. Now all you need to do is adjust the pedal up, until you have a good amount of threads showing and this will move the engage point up. It might take a few adjustments to get it to the best spot, but everytime that you adjust the rod out a little bit, the engagement will move up as well.