A while back I installed poly motor mounts in my car along with headers. I am installing a stall right now and am wondering how in the world am I going to remove the top tranny bolts. I can`t get my motor to tilt down enough to even see those top bolts. Any ideas? Also, I was trying to remove the converter bolts and my allen bit turned inside the bolt without turning the bolt. Wasn`t able to get a real close inspection to see if I screwed the bolt up, but how am I going to get that out now?

 

I've done it with a bunch of extension and a universal joint on the end. The easiest I've found was when I had the intake off and the bolt was right there and easy to get to. If you've stripped out an allen bolt that may be fun. See if you can get some vice grip on it possibly. I'd replace all them with a grade 8 hex bolt while it's apart.

 

It's all about the extensions. I remember using about three or four 6" extensions with a heavy duty universal joint on the end.

 

Take the front engine mount pedestal bolts out and loosen or remove the rear ones too.

 

Use the swivel socket's and a nice 24-36" extension 3/8 drive...

 

Can anyone read, it says he can't even see the bolts. No special swivel sockets and extensions will fix that.

 

Have you ever been under an F-body?

If you had, you would know that some of those upper bolts are around a blind turn. Just because you can't see the bolt doesn't mean you can't get a socket on it.

 

i used a sawzall to cut through a foot of the converter when i stripped a bolt. worked fine. And even if you got the motor to tilt its still hard to see the top bolts, kinda gotta do it by feel, but luckily it goes back together alot easier than it comes apart.

 

an air hammr with a sharp chisel will make quick work of removing stripped conveter bolts..
i dont know what gm was thinking by using allen bolts.

 

Yea, and I can always see the bolts with the trans tilted back far enough.

 

With my solid mounts, mine wouldn't tilt down enough either. Even with the bolts out, the mounts just tipped and pushed the engine up higher. I had to take my solids out to do the transmission swap. Now that I put poly mounts in, I've done it 2 more times without having to remove the mounts.

I had the best luck getting onto the top bolts, with my head out by the tailshaft. If you can see the bolt head from there, you can probably get a socket on it. Extensions back to the tailshaft, but coming down the side of it, near the torque arm mount. A wobble extension at the socket end. A small flashlight to shine up in there, helped at times too.

My 13mm socket was a little too long, and I had to cut about 1/4" off the end of it too. (it was a single replacement socket and was longer than the others...)

 

haha, you ain't lying. when i removed my m6 to do a clutch swap, i used about 4 extensions and put the ratched handle up through the hole in the floorbard for the shifter and ratcheted from inside the car and had somebody hold the extensions from under the car. idk how that transfers to removing an A4, but you get the idea.

 

anyone know the size of the allen wrench for the torque converter?

 

I have the poly engine mounts. Try using a wood block on a jack to lift the front part of the bottom oil pan. Usually you can lift it just enough to get to the top bolt.

 

im pretty sure its an 8.

 

Well, on the past four 4th gens that I've dealt with, not really. When you start tilting it down that far, it puts a tremendous amount of stress on the engine mounts and will sometimes tear them thus requiring replacement.

So yourself.

 

The allen head bolts are 8mm. I didn`t think of using my air chisel. I`ll have to try that. As far as the top bolts. I can`t even think about getting my hands on them. Also, when I was working on taking off the TC bolts. I noticed cracks in my flexplate. Looks like I`ll be buying a new one. Anyone know of a good quality one besides the TCI plate?

 

meziere, i just ordered one myself.

 

The stock GM converter bolts are a Allen Head/HexHead combo bolt. They also come with some loctite on them. Sometimes the mechanic has to heat mine with a torch to break them loose.

 

i've done quite a few converter swap's, and trust me.. once you know where them bastages are. they can't hide.. esp w/ them swivel's.. they're the perfect size....