Tailshaft Bushing
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
Tailshaft Bushing Did a search, found a lil' info but nothing real helpful. Wondering how bad these are to install? Is it as simple as pulling the driveshaft, rear tranny seal, and then the bushing? Or does it involve having to drop the transmission, or require removal of the tailshaft housing? Also, how much play in the bushing is acceptable? And what constitutes "abnormal wear" on the front driveshaft yoke? In my scenario, I have had bad u-joints for quite some time. I also have some oil blow-by coming from the rear of the tranny. I will be installing a brand new driveshaft soon and will be replacing the rear tranny seal as well. Just wanting to know if I should replace the bushing while I'm right there at it? The car's got 83,5XX miles on it. I've checked the driveshaft for movement and it has very little movement up and down/side to side. I've got the stock aluminum driveshaft still in there. Thoughts? TIA.
I don't know how to tell you to check the bushing clearance as far as wiggling it.
To check wear on the yoke measure the tip and then measure where the bushing rides, the difference is the amount of wear it has.
I just changed my front and rear bushings and seals, had my whole trans out.
To change it in the car just support the trans and remove the tail housing.
You need about $10 of parts and these are name brand, not junk.
The tail o-ring, bushing, and seal.
I drive the seal EDIT: bushing (NOT seal) out by collapsing it, then drive the new one in with a 1/2" thick flat washer on a bushing driver.
Pretty easy.
To check wear on the yoke measure the tip and then measure where the bushing rides, the difference is the amount of wear it has.
I just changed my front and rear bushings and seals, had my whole trans out.
To change it in the car just support the trans and remove the tail housing.
You need about $10 of parts and these are name brand, not junk.
The tail o-ring, bushing, and seal.
I drive the seal EDIT: bushing (NOT seal) out by collapsing it, then drive the new one in with a 1/2" thick flat washer on a bushing driver.
Pretty easy.
Last edited by 9000th01ss; Aug 15, 2008 at 08:00 PM.
I replaced it because I was right there replacing the seal. The bushing was near $1.60 and the tailhousing o-ring was 60 cents. Rear seal $2.10, National brand.
And this trans has MAYBE 36,000 miles on it.
It did get rid of a vibration around 60 mph and up.
Bad U Joints and oil leakage out of the tail seal, waste of time to just do the seal. But thats just me I guess.
And this trans has MAYBE 36,000 miles on it.
It did get rid of a vibration around 60 mph and up.
Bad U Joints and oil leakage out of the tail seal, waste of time to just do the seal. But thats just me I guess.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
Alright, I read somewhere to take a look at the bushing while I was in there, but what exactly am I looking for? 
I've gotten everything torn apart. Here's some pictures...
I guess I was expecting something a lil' more obvious? Is it that little ring on the inside of the opening here?
I've gotten everything torn apart. Here's some pictures...I guess I was expecting something a lil' more obvious? Is it that little ring on the inside of the opening here?
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