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This is why the new Mustang V6 is limited to 112mph

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Old 12-20-2011, 08:03 PM
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i actually destroyed my stock DS on my SS.


thankfully i was going slow and it was covered under warranty.
Old 12-20-2011, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by gocartone
IDK, there wasn't really any problems with the F-bodys stock drive-shaft. When do they usually break? 450-500whp, and slicks? That's not bad out of a car that came with 350hp stock. That said, I do run a drive-shaft loop on mine, but I think anyone (with any car) that could benefit from one should. Surprised Ford doesn't have something on them to keep this from happening. I would think that by now there are some safety rules on drive-shafts, considering how easily someone could get killed by a loose drive-shaft flying through the floor.
They're not really a huge issue if you have an A4, but I've heard of people with sticky tires and an M6 breaking them under stock power, not common I don't think but it can happen I guess.

Pretty sure it's not as bad as what that guy who originally brought it up made it out to be though. Both my car and my 2 friends with stock-ish M6 LS1 F-Body's have been up past 120 numerous times and we haven't had any problems out of ours.
Old 12-20-2011, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TransAmWS.6
They're not really a huge issue if you have an A4, but I've heard of people with sticky tires and an M6 breaking them under stock power, not common I don't think but it can happen I guess.

Pretty sure it's not as bad as what that guy who originally brought it up made it out to be though. Both my car and my 2 friends with stock-ish M6 LS1 F-Body's have been up past 120 numerous times and we haven't had any problems out of ours.
That's kind of what I was thinking, anything can break at stock power in any car but it wasn't very common. I don't think any have lost drive shafts from going to fast, and it would be hard to blame it on the shaft vs them driving with bad U-joints.
Old 12-20-2011, 09:00 PM
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We're talking about two different failure modes here - the one in the video was due to the driveshaft reaching its critical speed where it starts wobbling so bad that it fails. A lot of other people are talking about applying too much torque to the shaft, causing it to shear. Two totally different reasons, although they are both caused by the same basic issue - poor design (be that material selection, thickness, etc.).
Old 12-20-2011, 09:14 PM
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You'd have to be able to feel some vibration at that speed.. If a car feels even slightly off as far as a shimmy or wobble I immediately back out of it, I don't understand how people can keep on it like that.

That also may have not been the first time he's pulled that stunt either, economy car parts can only take so much.

Either way, if the car is capable of going that speed, it should be designed accordingly IMO.
Old 12-21-2011, 08:50 AM
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And back to the Mustang....

Wouldn't Ford have saved money if they used the same driveshaft in the V6 as in the GT? I mean, the one in the GT can really go 135mph+ right? Why pay to have 2 shafts engineered/produced??
Old 12-21-2011, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 1CAMWNDR
Wouldn't Ford have saved money if they used the same driveshaft in the V6 as in the GT? I mean, the one in the GT can really go 135mph+ right? Why pay to have 2 shafts engineered/produced??
As someone previously mentioned the v6 was likely lightweight and designed to get the absolute best fuel economy since that was the main bragging point with the v6 car. And where in America would a person really be allowed to go 135+mph where the car is actually capable? I doubt it would reach those speeds on a track.



I wonder if these driveshafts are made right next to the Chinese manual transmissions?
Old 12-21-2011, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by GTOSE
You'd have to be able to feel some vibration at that speed.. If a car feels even slightly off as far as a shimmy or wobble I immediately back out of it
That is completely wrong thinking. If you do that, then you have to diagnose the problem and find the vibration. If you stay in it, catastrophic failure will lead you right to the source of vibration.
Old 12-21-2011, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by speedtigger
That is completely wrong thinking. If you do that, then you have to diagnose the problem and find the vibration. If you stay in it, catastrophic failure will lead you right to the source of vibration.
And hell surely has enough crooked mechanics to help you put it back together
Old 12-21-2011, 12:36 PM
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please change "safely" to "legally" and realize that much smaller countries allow retard speeds on roads less long, straight, and level.
Old 12-21-2011, 02:08 PM
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damn! had my sound cranked to and it scared the **** outta me! please please please some one find some carnage pics!!
and if I was that guy I would of returned all the tuning back to stock before bringing it in to ford for warranty work
Originally Posted by ULTIMATEORANGESS
weather people agree or not there were reasons why GM used a 10 bolt. from a cost and mileage standpoint it made sense. being lighter was also a reason.


ive never heard of one blowing from a high speed run however.
a 10bolt shouldn't blow up from high speeds but that doesn't mean they like high speeds. at sustained high speeds they heat up(unless you installed a diff cooler) and that heat is a killer! I know mine never missed a beat til I went from the canadian border to ma traveling at a steady 145...ever since then its been whining and occasionally the posi wont work. I know it'll blow the first time I put some DR's under it..

and to who ever said it crown vics top out @ 133 according to the troopers who were chasing me(on a dif occasion than the one I mentioned above)
Old 12-21-2011, 03:28 PM
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I sheared the pinion gear right off and through the housing on my 96 LT1 camaro. that wasnt even modded, nor getting a beating when it happened. then the one it was replaced with busted not to long after with ebaring problems. the 10 bolt was a POS anywhere and the 4l60e wasnt to much better. it seemed very hit and miss
Old 12-21-2011, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by speedtigger
That is completely wrong thinking. If you do that, then you have to diagnose the problem and find the vibration. If you stay in it, catastrophic failure will lead you right to the source of vibration.
I do hate me some troubleshooting..
Old 12-31-2011, 03:02 AM
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One piece shafts are always stronger. And as to why it broke it has been stated that it wasn't designed to go that fast. Euro spec Evos and Beamers have the same problem with their body panels coming off at high speeds. That's why even though they make over 500 they are limited to 155
Old 12-31-2011, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Blk98Vert
One piece shafts are always stronger. And as to why it broke it has been stated that it wasn't designed to go that fast. Euro spec Evos and Beamers have the same problem with their body panels coming off at high speeds. That's why even though they make over 500 they are limited to 155
The reasons for speed governors vary. In some case it's a matter of protecting the car from damage. In the case of a few marquee European car makers it was a bit of self regulation through a gentlemen's agreement.

http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/200...hall-be-known/
http://www.carkeys.co.uk/news/end-155mph-limit
http://www.autoblog.com/2005/07/14/m...55-mph-limits/
Old 01-21-2012, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by thunderstruck507
The piece of **** aluminum driveshafts in 4th gens were marginally better. This is nothing new.

I wouldn't want to do 120 in a f body with the stock driveshaft.
Several have "risked their life" going well beyond 120. I've seen 130, 140 and 150+ multiple times in my WS6 and its "soda can" drive shaft. Not saying it was intelligent, saying that at any time any component can break or fail. A wheel bearing, a tie rod, a valve spring, any one of a hundred things can break at any given time with or without warning. And you can't make a perfect car.

Originally Posted by thunderstruck507
Not saying it can't be done, saying I personally would not. I've seen 2 bust in person and I've yet to ride in an fbody with one that isn't at least slightly out of balance or bent causing vibration. Seeing how flimsy they are upon inspecting a broken one doesn't add to the faith either.

A good driveshaft is ~$200 and is worth it IMO. Everyone else can carry on as they wish.



First time you see a car blow out a shaft at the track or on the dyno you might be less confident in trusting a soda can stuffed with a toilet paper roll with your life.
That "soda can" material is also used to build the blocks and heads most of us have under our hoods. I know my 148,xxx mile engine is still going just fine as is its Al driveshaft. That said, I too would pony up for a new driveshaft were I going much beyond stock power in it.



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