CTSV Parts for sale. 2004 Thru 2006
11-15-2010, 05:07 PM
#21
11-16-2010, 07:52 AM
#25
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12-06-2010, 11:00 AM
#30
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12-07-2010, 06:53 PM
#31
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Oh, and he only has a right one left, so you'd have to come up with a left one on your own, which is why I'm no longer interested. I have no idea where I would find someone that I would trust to weld fill and re-drill a left side piece to match the right one that's he got.
Unfortunately, after November 15th he apparently forgot how to do this...
... so the list in the original post is no longer current.
12-08-2010, 05:30 AM
#32
On The Tree
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The holes are moved 6mm.
I could have my machine shop weld and fill and redrill.. Just takes time to do and they are jammed up..
Call with any questions.. or send me your email and i will send pictures.
jfaphoenix32@aol.com
610-482-0141
I could have my machine shop weld and fill and redrill.. Just takes time to do and they are jammed up..
Call with any questions.. or send me your email and i will send pictures.
jfaphoenix32@aol.com
610-482-0141
12-08-2010, 10:43 AM
#33
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He emailed me at work, but I think I've already deleted the picture. It's the entire upper strut mount / upper control arm mount. The mounting holes where the upper control arm bolts to that big hunk of aluminum have been moved inboard. Hard to tell from the picture he sent me exactly how much the offset is, but the mounting holes aren't centered anymore, as they are on the stock part.
Oh, and he only has a right one left, so you'd have to come up with a left one on your own, which is why I'm no longer interested. I have no idea where I would find someone that I would trust to weld fill and re-drill a left side piece to match the right one that's he got.
Unfortunately, after November 15th he apparently forgot how to do this...
... so the list in the original post is no longer current.
Oh, and he only has a right one left, so you'd have to come up with a left one on your own, which is why I'm no longer interested. I have no idea where I would find someone that I would trust to weld fill and re-drill a left side piece to match the right one that's he got.
Unfortunately, after November 15th he apparently forgot how to do this...
... so the list in the original post is no longer current.
12-08-2010, 01:42 PM
#35
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That would have been pretty sweet for track duty. But our cars can already get 2.5° of negative camber, and even at that amount any street driving wears the hell out of the inside of the tire (I just recently found this out).
I had gone for almost 2 years running about 2.0° of negative camber (all year round), and that was fine for tire wear, but when I upped the negative camber by another 0.5° last spring, that was too much and it wore my R888s out, since I drove them on the street and track. Although, after about 5000 miles, they were pretty much down to the treadbars anyway.
I had gone for almost 2 years running about 2.0° of negative camber (all year round), and that was fine for tire wear, but when I upped the negative camber by another 0.5° last spring, that was too much and it wore my R888s out, since I drove them on the street and track. Although, after about 5000 miles, they were pretty much down to the treadbars anyway.
12-22-2010, 06:50 AM
#37
I just sent you an email. Let me know how you want me to pay (paypal or call you with CC info) and I'll shoot you the money. 
