built my own engine mount
04-05-2009, 10:37 AM
#1
built my own engine mount here is the ripped up drivers mount, common issue
didnt think it should cost 450 to fix the problem, so i fixed for free.
the bushing is one i had laying around, its an a-arm bushing and sleeve. welded junk to the top and bottom to fashioned it into same type of thing as the fancy ones made for the gto's and vette's
mounted to factory mount crap
installed
little bit more vibration, car feels better driving around in general and i THINK it may have improved the wheelhop??
didnt think it should cost 450 to fix the problem, so i fixed for free.
the bushing is one i had laying around, its an a-arm bushing and sleeve. welded junk to the top and bottom to fashioned it into same type of thing as the fancy ones made for the gto's and vette's
mounted to factory mount crap
installed
little bit more vibration, car feels better driving around in general and i THINK it may have improved the wheelhop??
04-05-2009, 11:01 AM
#3
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here is the ripped up drivers mount, common issue
didnt think it should cost 450 to fix the problem, so i fixed for free.
the bushing is one i had laying around, its an a-arm bushing and sleeve. welded junk to the top and bottom to fashioned it into same type of thing as the fancy ones made for the gto's and vette's
mounted to factory mount crap
installed
little bit more vibration, car feels better driving around in general and i THINK it may have improved the wheelhop??
didnt think it should cost 450 to fix the problem, so i fixed for free.
the bushing is one i had laying around, its an a-arm bushing and sleeve. welded junk to the top and bottom to fashioned it into same type of thing as the fancy ones made for the gto's and vette's
mounted to factory mount crap
installed
little bit more vibration, car feels better driving around in general and i THINK it may have improved the wheelhop??
04-05-2009, 11:19 AM
#5
Motor Mounts I really like your solution but have currently incorporated the 60's drag-tech (very low-buck and quick) method to limit engine travel with a piece of cable. It's slack enough to allow some engine movement during normal operation but quickly tightens up under load thereby saving the engine mount.
Your mount is far superior
to the UUC mounts in load capacity (and durability in their current design/manufacturing version) and should be an easier install since they are two-piece.
There are shock and spring-eye brackets (and bushings) available from Jeg's and Speedway that would simplify fabrication for those of us who are interested in duplicating your efforts.
Your mount is far superior
to the UUC mounts in load capacity (and durability in their current design/manufacturing version) and should be an easier install since they are two-piece. There are shock and spring-eye brackets (and bushings) available from Jeg's and Speedway that would simplify fabrication for those of us who are interested in duplicating your efforts.
04-06-2009, 05:17 PM
#6
yep, thanks
now that i have a used one in hand finally i can go about making something more proper... still doing some research on a real nice but affordable bushing to use, i think the poly is a bit tighter than necessary on this lux. vehicle but i'm sure it will also break in over time.
here's revision A model:
now that i have a used one in hand finally i can go about making something more proper... still doing some research on a real nice but affordable bushing to use, i think the poly is a bit tighter than necessary on this lux. vehicle but i'm sure it will also break in over time.
here's revision A model:
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05-06-2009, 08:32 PM
#10
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Hey Mighty!
You should have definitely improved wheel hop with the new mounts. Many of the wheel hop issues are typically exaggerated because the engine/trans assembly reach a natural frequency as they are suspended (via soft mounts) to the vehicle body. A quick and dirty way to solve the issue is to hard mount the parts to the vehicle, or get stiffer mounts (at the cost of more NVH).
I have my UUCs in a box, ready to install. I can't wait to see the differences!
Keep up the awesome work!
Adrian
You should have definitely improved wheel hop with the new mounts. Many of the wheel hop issues are typically exaggerated because the engine/trans assembly reach a natural frequency as they are suspended (via soft mounts) to the vehicle body. A quick and dirty way to solve the issue is to hard mount the parts to the vehicle, or get stiffer mounts (at the cost of more NVH).
I have my UUCs in a box, ready to install. I can't wait to see the differences!
Keep up the awesome work!
Adrian
05-06-2009, 10:07 PM
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Hey Raven,
You are incorrect. Motor mounts have a LOT to do with hop. You can note that I did not say it eliminates mounts. But it does alleviate the issue some.
I worked in the automotive industry and was involved with this type of testing on RWD cars with a very similar setup to what we have. The engine/transmission act as a suspended mass damper that excited itself when it reaches a natural frequency. I don't know what you did to your car (UUC, or other), but if you would solid mount your engine and trans to your vehicle, you would substantially reduce hop. The remaining wheel hop would be then caused by suspension/tires. We don't solid mount to the body because it would be extremely annoying to drive.
The same concept applies in FWD form, except the natural frequency is reached at a different point.
Trust me...
You are incorrect. Motor mounts have a LOT to do with hop. You can note that I did not say it eliminates mounts. But it does alleviate the issue some.
I worked in the automotive industry and was involved with this type of testing on RWD cars with a very similar setup to what we have. The engine/transmission act as a suspended mass damper that excited itself when it reaches a natural frequency. I don't know what you did to your car (UUC, or other), but if you would solid mount your engine and trans to your vehicle, you would substantially reduce hop. The remaining wheel hop would be then caused by suspension/tires. We don't solid mount to the body because it would be extremely annoying to drive.
The same concept applies in FWD form, except the natural frequency is reached at a different point.
Trust me...
05-07-2009, 04:20 PM
#13
i am not looking to sell any mouts for production, i do have the original mount that i fabricated off the car and if somebody wants to make an offer for it go for it.
i made the mount above out of urethane from grainger and have replaced the first style i made with it.
i made the mount above out of urethane from grainger and have replaced the first style i made with it.
05-07-2009, 06:14 PM
#15
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Hey Raven,
You are incorrect. Motor mounts have a LOT to do with hop. You can note that I did not say it eliminates mounts. But it does alleviate the issue some.
I worked in the automotive industry and was involved with this type of testing on RWD cars with a very similar setup to what we have. The engine/transmission act as a suspended mass damper that excited itself when it reaches a natural frequency. I don't know what you did to your car (UUC, or other), but if you would solid mount your engine and trans to your vehicle, you would substantially reduce hop. The remaining wheel hop would be then caused by suspension/tires. We don't solid mount to the body because it would be extremely annoying to drive.
The same concept applies in FWD form, except the natural frequency is reached at a different point.
Trust me...
You are incorrect. Motor mounts have a LOT to do with hop. You can note that I did not say it eliminates mounts. But it does alleviate the issue some.
I worked in the automotive industry and was involved with this type of testing on RWD cars with a very similar setup to what we have. The engine/transmission act as a suspended mass damper that excited itself when it reaches a natural frequency. I don't know what you did to your car (UUC, or other), but if you would solid mount your engine and trans to your vehicle, you would substantially reduce hop. The remaining wheel hop would be then caused by suspension/tires. We don't solid mount to the body because it would be extremely annoying to drive.
The same concept applies in FWD form, except the natural frequency is reached at a different point.
Trust me...
I never said they dont help on other cars, I said better mounts do not help on this car. AT ALL!!! I have them. I should know. I dont really give a **** what you have tested, I doubt you have ever tested a V. I try to help a person out....... see for yourself. I tried to tell you but I guess you will learn soon enough.
Mods are in my sig but I guess if you had a hard time understanding what I wrote the first time then you probably didn't understand whats in my sig.
Last edited by raven154; 05-07-2009 at 06:26 PM.
05-07-2009, 08:04 PM
#17
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waddayah say you make a batch of these mighty mounts for the
forums members. say, 2 dozen units?? i or aj will be your best friend.
c'mon, do the right thing, and stop doing all the wrong ones.
forums members. say, 2 dozen units?? i or aj will be your best friend.
c'mon, do the right thing, and stop doing all the wrong ones.
05-07-2009, 08:11 PM
#18
the first style had vibration at low rpm, otherwise was totally fine.
i have yet to have the car touch the ground with the new mount, been waiting on wheels to get powdercoated for 3 weeks!
top v there is a guy on caddyforums that appears to have copied my design and is selling them soon i guess. check that out.
i have yet to have the car touch the ground with the new mount, been waiting on wheels to get powdercoated for 3 weeks!
top v there is a guy on caddyforums that appears to have copied my design and is selling them soon i guess. check that out.
05-07-2009, 09:48 PM
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Raven,
Pull your head out of your ***. If you have a problem being corrected, go see a psychiatrist. I wasn't trying to insult you, so get over youself and grow the hell up.
Although I, myself, didn't test the V, we had a V with all these aftermarket mounts. That's number one. Numero dos, whether I worked on the V or not makes zero difference. The car I worked on was a direct competitor and was set up the same way.
If you could do some sort of data capture on your system, instead of giving me a 'feeler' test, I will step down on this one. In the mean time, your statements make no sense because you don't know what you're talking about.
Finally, I DID read your sig. You made sure you wrote every detail in large, black, bold letters. My statements about improvements had nothing to do with what work you have done, or what my plans are for my car. I was supporting Mighty's awesome inventions, as he deserves.
Adrian
Pull your head out of your ***. If you have a problem being corrected, go see a psychiatrist. I wasn't trying to insult you, so get over youself and grow the hell up.
Although I, myself, didn't test the V, we had a V with all these aftermarket mounts. That's number one. Numero dos, whether I worked on the V or not makes zero difference. The car I worked on was a direct competitor and was set up the same way.
If you could do some sort of data capture on your system, instead of giving me a 'feeler' test, I will step down on this one. In the mean time, your statements make no sense because you don't know what you're talking about.
Finally, I DID read your sig. You made sure you wrote every detail in large, black, bold letters. My statements about improvements had nothing to do with what work you have done, or what my plans are for my car. I was supporting Mighty's awesome inventions, as he deserves.
Adrian