Aftermarket radiators
#22
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Darkman,
Do you have any photos of your installation that you could post up?
I'm interested in the fan shroud fitment on the driver's side (especially in the bolt area) as I have minimal clearance there due to a larger MAF and intake tube. The area indicated on the edited copy of your photo shows where the issue is.
Do you have any photos of your installation that you could post up?
I'm interested in the fan shroud fitment on the driver's side (especially in the bolt area) as I have minimal clearance there due to a larger MAF and intake tube. The area indicated on the edited copy of your photo shows where the issue is.
Last edited by Darkman; 12-16-2009 at 08:42 AM.
#25
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Thanks for the posting. The last photo in the series tells me what I needed (and was afraid) to know.
Since I no longer have the squeeze tube, I'm history as far as this application is concerned.
My tube is 4" and it's very tight on the driver's side upper bolt. I had to relieve the fan boss and use a button socket head bolt to get even minimal clearance on both sides of the tube.
Since I no longer have the squeeze tube, I'm history as far as this application is concerned.
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If your question is directed at me, the answer is nothing. It is an Elite Engineering catch can. It came with an L-shaped bracket which I shortened and bolted to a home made bracket that attaches to an existing bolt on the front of the motor. It was originally installed using the LS6 stock plumbing. There is now another hose in the picture runnning to the air intake tube just upstream of the throttle body. Thas was added when I installed a ported LS2 throttle body using a TPIS 90mm LS6 instake.
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You can optimize the current cooling system by changing the coolant ratio to 75% distilled water and 25% coolant, and add a surfactant like RMI-25. Then look into a different thermostat, and possibly a pressure cap that has a higher pressure rating. The higher pressure and surfactant will reduce hot spots inside the cylinder heads and promote better heat transfer to the coolant mix. Then just make sure all the air going through the nose of the car is ducted into the radiator. I haven't looked at mine yet, but many of the other cars I've owned needed a little help ducting all the air into the radiator.
#34
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Speaking of radiators, I met a guy here in SoCal on another board I am a member of who recently started making radiators. He has an engineering background, and abilities to make radiators, and has a passion for cars. He is in the middle of a 25.3 build Buick Grand National, so that is the first platform he made a rad for. I have one of his radiators in my GN and it is amazing. I got a powdercoated one from him, to which a lot of guys said the coating would be a detriment, but it is working amazingly well. He has made other radiators for other cars like Pony Mustangs, etc and I started asking him about making radiators for the V's. Main reason I asked is I am not really super comfortable with how hot it runs currently, and mine seeps a little between the aluminum core and the plastic end tanks (or top/ bottom tanks in this case). Seems to be a common occurrance.
Even though we are limited on space in the radiator area, he said he is pretty sure he can increase the cooling ability substantially. I sent him my stock V rad, and the aftermarket aluminum one is going through production right now. I will be testing the new rad, and will start a new thread detailing the install and testing I do on it.
I am stoked because I have seen his work on the other rad in my GN, and I love to get a product from a vendor who supports the auto sport, not to mention it will be all aluminum, without crappy plastic end tanks, and will be all AMERICAN made!
I'll be sure to post up a new thread when I do get it, hopefully within the next few weeks.
Even though we are limited on space in the radiator area, he said he is pretty sure he can increase the cooling ability substantially. I sent him my stock V rad, and the aftermarket aluminum one is going through production right now. I will be testing the new rad, and will start a new thread detailing the install and testing I do on it.
I am stoked because I have seen his work on the other rad in my GN, and I love to get a product from a vendor who supports the auto sport, not to mention it will be all aluminum, without crappy plastic end tanks, and will be all AMERICAN made!
I'll be sure to post up a new thread when I do get it, hopefully within the next few weeks.
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PS, price should be much less than the RD unit.
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#37
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He is trying to make it as close to stock as possible fitment-wise, with all the stock stuff going right back on like factory. He said he can gain some width, probably 3/4" (moving towards motor I think) and also improve the cooling capacity. It is going to be tough to accommodate the guys who have stepped up to a supercharger due to the pulley clearance, but we shall see. It was even mentioned about making the "U" channel across the top of it, so you could run your intake tube straight forward, over the rad, and in front of the rad, however you would lose the ability to use the stock hood latch, and would have to use pins. That may come later, but for now he wants to make one close to factory. I cannot wait to see it. The craftsmanship on the GN rad I got from him is amazing, and I expect the same with this one. I will post some pics of the GN rad to show a little. This is the all aluminum one, powdercoated to look like the stocker:
PS, price should be much less than the RD unit.![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
PS, price should be much less than the RD unit.
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I like the look of flush mount hood pins.
#38
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I will start another thread when I get the rad in to show the install process, and mods (don't expect any/many) and performance results. Stay tuned!
James
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Well, as promised here is the radiator Peter from ALRADCO made. These are his pics, and the rad is in the mail to me right now. I will post a ton more pics when I get it here, and will do an install/how to thread with comparisons and details. I think it turned out awesome! I can't wait to see it in person!
After seeing the detail, welds, etc I wondered if he was going to be able to keep it affordable. Like with the Grand National radiators, he is not asking a ton trying to make a ton of money. He is trying to do something good for the hobby and give everyone something we can enjoy. The price???? Under $500! I am sure he could ask more, but he feels there is no reason to rake guys over the coals.
Take a peek, let me know if you have any questions, and stay tuned for the install/comparison thread!!!
James
EDIT: There is a reason for the Red, White, and Blue in the background. Peter's radiators are AMERICAN made!![The Patriot !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_patriot.gif)
![](http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/view3.jpg)
![](http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/view2.jpg)
After seeing the detail, welds, etc I wondered if he was going to be able to keep it affordable. Like with the Grand National radiators, he is not asking a ton trying to make a ton of money. He is trying to do something good for the hobby and give everyone something we can enjoy. The price???? Under $500! I am sure he could ask more, but he feels there is no reason to rake guys over the coals.
Take a peek, let me know if you have any questions, and stay tuned for the install/comparison thread!!!
James
EDIT: There is a reason for the Red, White, and Blue in the background. Peter's radiators are AMERICAN made!
![The Patriot !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_patriot.gif)
![](http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/view3.jpg)
![](http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/view2.jpg)
![](http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/view1.jpg)
#40
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I'd appreciate some dimensions once you have the radiator in your possession. I'd also like to see pics of it mounted, in particular the clearance at the top to the intake tube, radiator fans, etc, which seems to be the tighest area.