Bored - Made my own home depot CAI
07-27-2010, 01:26 PM
#21
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In all fairness, I have to say I did have to retighten the clamps today as the pvc connector I used is a hair to short. I will be finding another peice and cutting it to fit when I can. Issue solved. Probably wouldnt have even happened had i used a socket on the clamps instead of a flathead. Actually, let me try the socket first before buying another pipe. 
07-27-2010, 02:02 PM
#22
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In all fairness, I have to say I did have to retighten the clamps today as the pvc connector I used is a hair to short. I will be finding another peice and cutting it to fit when I can. Issue solved. Probably wouldnt have even happened had i used a socket on the clamps instead of a flathead. Actually, let me try the socket first before buying another pipe.
07-27-2010, 02:06 PM
#23
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i think DIY is a good option for everything. you will see similar number gains at 1/10th price. i didnt do anything DIY that i have got just because i havent seen my car in person yet. but when i do, i already have a couple projects i will be doing in my garage.
the only thing i got againist yours (not bashing), it just doesnt look as clean as a bolt on. with that being said, the hood is down most of the time, so who really cares. it you like it that all that matters.
the only thing i got againist yours (not bashing), it just doesnt look as clean as a bolt on. with that being said, the hood is down most of the time, so who really cares. it you like it that all that matters.
07-27-2010, 04:18 PM
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i think DIY is a good option for everything. you will see similar number gains at 1/10th price. i didnt do anything DIY that i have got just because i havent seen my car in person yet. but when i do, i already have a couple projects i will be doing in my garage.
the only thing i got againist yours (not bashing), it just doesnt look as clean as a bolt on. with that being said, the hood is down most of the time, so who really cares. it you like it that all that matters.
the only thing i got againist yours (not bashing), it just doesnt look as clean as a bolt on. with that being said, the hood is down most of the time, so who really cares. it you like it that all that matters.
07-27-2010, 09:06 PM
#26
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Props to you on your DIY, I started this thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...et-ballin.html hoping that people would contritbute with their own DIY's.
07-28-2010, 12:50 AM
#27
So... I wouldn't pay 2-300 for an intake either...
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...questions.html
Thread from the other site has the Stealth V FFM parts list detailed... $50-60 has you into a classy looking intake.
Also some discussion there on expanding it to a 4" path from MAF to TB.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...questions.html
Thread from the other site has the Stealth V FFM parts list detailed... $50-60 has you into a classy looking intake.
Also some discussion there on expanding it to a 4" path from MAF to TB.
07-28-2010, 06:17 PM
#28
Here's a couple of homemade intake tubes....
The first photo shows the stock unit compared to a homemade unit with a 4" 90* bend and a reducer coupling down to stock MAF size.
The second and third photos show the 4" homemade unit (that's 4" all the way to the filter). 4" will work with some minor clearance work on the fan shroud bolt boss and a different bolt in the shroud.
Neither was as cheap as Lowe's or Home Depot but both were much less than $100 in parts including shipping. On the 4" setup, that price is obviously excluding the PowrMax 102 MAF housing and MAF stalk.
Moving the hose clamp screws to the underside cleans it up a bit, too.
The first photo shows the stock unit compared to a homemade unit with a 4" 90* bend and a reducer coupling down to stock MAF size.
The second and third photos show the 4" homemade unit (that's 4" all the way to the filter). 4" will work with some minor clearance work on the fan shroud bolt boss and a different bolt in the shroud.
Neither was as cheap as Lowe's or Home Depot but both were much less than $100 in parts including shipping. On the 4" setup, that price is obviously excluding the PowrMax 102 MAF housing and MAF stalk.
Moving the hose clamp screws to the underside cleans it up a bit, too.
07-29-2010, 09:53 PM
#29
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Don't blame you for making your own intake. I did a 4" aluminum intake for pretty cheap (70.00) and picked up 11whp on our dyno.
If anyone is looking to make a cheap intake, please do not use PVC. Heat will create a chemical release and start calcinating the valves and such. It will also contaminate the fuel going into your motor if heated up enough.
Aluminum, pure plastic, or steel please! I don't want to see power loss or engine failure postings!
If anyone is looking to make a cheap intake, please do not use PVC. Heat will create a chemical release and start calcinating the valves and such. It will also contaminate the fuel going into your motor if heated up enough.
Aluminum, pure plastic, or steel please! I don't want to see power loss or engine failure postings!
07-30-2010, 10:35 AM
#30
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ok im sorry if ur pissed cuz i called u out on that beautiful piece of work u made, but at the end of the day u bought a cts-v and ur cutting corners and saving nickels and dimes on a car u spent a good amount of money on, my point is i just cant see myself not doing things right the first time around especially on these awesome cars.
08-01-2010, 12:07 PM
#32
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No, the post above is from a guy that is just tryin to stir the pot, nothing else. He just keeps beatin a dead horse with "eliteness" arguement of the car...gets called out with some solid debateable points and in response, keeps spewing out the same rhetoric like a broken record.
08-01-2010, 11:24 PM
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No, the post above is from a guy that is just tryin to stir the pot, nothing else. He just keeps beatin a dead horse with "eliteness" arguement of the car...gets called out with some solid debateable points and in response, keeps spewing out the same rhetoric like a broken record.
08-02-2010, 08:56 AM
#34
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I'm all for saving money, but I also like to open the hood of my car and show off the engine bay as well... Not to get to involved, but there are cheap effective ways of doing the intake piping, and I dont think Home depot would be the place i would go looking for the parts...
That being said i went the route mentioned above with a 90 degree 4-3.5" elbow, a 3.5" tube, and a 3.5" coupler and the parts only cost like 40$. Engine bay still resembles a car engine, not the underside of my sink
That being said i went the route mentioned above with a 90 degree 4-3.5" elbow, a 3.5" tube, and a 3.5" coupler and the parts only cost like 40$. Engine bay still resembles a car engine, not the underside of my sink
08-02-2010, 07:58 PM
#37
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I am ordering the 4 to 3.5 elbow off ebay and using a 3.5 aluminum pipe this week. What I am not gonna do is reinvent the stock airbox. I am gonna go on a limb and say there is less than 3hp difference between the stock box with K&N insert and making your own.
Just my opinion but the stock airbox pulls from all the right places already.
Just my opinion but the stock airbox pulls from all the right places already.
08-02-2010, 08:18 PM
#38
but have you thought about replacing the aluminum heatsink (tube) with something that has better insulating properties? I would think that would be most noticeable in traffic conditions, where not much airflow is encountered.I am working on a box setup myself and like seeing different ideas people have come up with. I was even throwing around the idea to use a thermal cookie sheet and modify...I know in the end it'll look better (shows) and function better than anything I can buy, plus I just love working on things and having the challenge/accomplishment.
08-02-2010, 11:01 PM
#39
The heat sink effects should be minimal, the air is moving so fast through the intake tube, that it would not gain much energy from the tube, (think about the mass of air moving through that pipe)
08-02-2010, 11:35 PM
#40
OK, think of it this way...aluminum absorbs the radiant heat around it and when this "fast moving air", which is coming in at a lower temperature, acts like a fan over said heatsink (hs) and then that air pulls heat off the aluminum (hs) and into the engine. There is indeed a lot of surface area on that tube if you were to roll it out (sq in) that absorbs the surrounding heat...when you're not moving (or much), it gets worse. Naturally you don't need the power sitting there, but soon after you get moving again. There are other times besides traffic where that could cause issues more than using something like hdpe or ceramic insulated, etc...Sure it 'works', but there are better materials if you were going to get every last bit out of it...