Bored - Made my own home depot CAI
08-03-2010, 09:49 AM
#41
AHHH COME ON.. not this S%$^^T AGAIN LOL.. why oh why does this constantly come up...its great to over think and discuss...but...
THERE IS NO TIME FOR THE 8 INCHES OF THE ALUMINUM TUBE to INCREASE THE INGESTED AIR WHAT SO EVER when driving!
THE SECOND you crack the throttle up a bit, any POSSIBLE WARMED AIR is long gone...and you are pulling right from the filter. Sorry to hear you dont like losing 2-4 hp/tq because of increased IAT's while your at 1500rpm or sitting at a light, for me, thats not a big deal. So for the Price and ease of working with Aluminum, it works great!
ITS THE INTAKE AIR TEMPS that come in the filter that are a big concern, not the short run tube...
Throw some insulation on there if it makes you happy or sure, ceramic (shrug)
Ive done pre / post temps, it so negligible during DRIVING. I encourage you to drill some holes, buy another IAT sensor and do some logging, before and after.
THERE IS NO TIME FOR THE 8 INCHES OF THE ALUMINUM TUBE to INCREASE THE INGESTED AIR WHAT SO EVER when driving!
THE SECOND you crack the throttle up a bit, any POSSIBLE WARMED AIR is long gone...and you are pulling right from the filter. Sorry to hear you dont like losing 2-4 hp/tq because of increased IAT's while your at 1500rpm or sitting at a light, for me, thats not a big deal. So for the Price and ease of working with Aluminum, it works great!
ITS THE INTAKE AIR TEMPS that come in the filter that are a big concern, not the short run tube...
Throw some insulation on there if it makes you happy or sure, ceramic (shrug)
Ive done pre / post temps, it so negligible during DRIVING. I encourage you to drill some holes, buy another IAT sensor and do some logging, before and after.
Last edited by vmapper; 08-03-2010 at 09:57 AM.
08-03-2010, 09:58 AM
#42
Actually, it's the air that enters the plenum and combustion chamber that makes the difference. Why do you think people ice their intake manifolds prior to a run? Where do you take your intake temp, near the filter?
Well, I drive my car as a daily and have experienced the difference in using metal that acts as a heatsink and thermoplastic or better materials and guess what I'll be using? Here's a little test: drive the car around, park and let it sit for a few minutes; touch that metal piece...pretty damn hot, isn't it?
Do the same thing with HDPE or another plastic...quite clear what doesn't absorb so much heat!
I understand what you're saying and not gonna disagree with you there, but will say when taking into account all realworld conditions, there's other reasons beyond manufacturing they don't use that material and I'm not gonna take a chance.
FWIW, I'm not new to this stuff, so I'm not spewing internet hearsay, just years of experience in not just automotive, but in my professional career, as well.
Anyway, I love aluminum and stainless steel, but there are some applications they are not best suited is all. Glad it's working for you though and I'm sure it wouldn't give you problems really, but when given the chance to make something from scratch, I'll pick what is best suited; especially when there is so much stuff available beyond the hardware store.
I am using 304 SS on my intercooler pipes and they pick up a lot of heat, but in that application, there's not much choice, as I'm not gonna risk them breaking at 25+ psi (no, this isn't the caddy of course...now that would be asking for trouble, lol)
Well, I drive my car as a daily and have experienced the difference in using metal that acts as a heatsink and thermoplastic or better materials and guess what I'll be using? Here's a little test: drive the car around, park and let it sit for a few minutes; touch that metal piece...pretty damn hot, isn't it?
Do the same thing with HDPE or another plastic...quite clear what doesn't absorb so much heat!I understand what you're saying and not gonna disagree with you there, but will say when taking into account all realworld conditions, there's other reasons beyond manufacturing they don't use that material and I'm not gonna take a chance.
FWIW, I'm not new to this stuff, so I'm not spewing internet hearsay, just years of experience in not just automotive, but in my professional career, as well.
Anyway, I love aluminum and stainless steel, but there are some applications they are not best suited is all. Glad it's working for you though and I'm sure it wouldn't give you problems really, but when given the chance to make something from scratch, I'll pick what is best suited; especially when there is so much stuff available beyond the hardware store.
I am using 304 SS on my intercooler pipes and they pick up a lot of heat, but in that application, there's not much choice, as I'm not gonna risk them breaking at 25+ psi (no, this isn't the caddy of course...now that would be asking for trouble, lol)
Last edited by JNR_Design; 08-03-2010 at 10:04 AM.
08-03-2010, 10:04 AM
#43
I know what you are getting at and encourage you to voice your side.
Price does have to be apart of your decision. I took great care in the decision of cost/materials used and would have pulled it all out and went a different route if the logs showed some horrible heat absorption, but they didn't. Some take it one step further and just add thermal barrier. lastly, for me, this only lasted a year as it all came out, procharger went in but during the time it was in, it worked great and as intended.
Lastly, on an LS6 setup, it doesnt provide 'enormous' Hp gains anyways.
What material did you have in mind?
Price does have to be apart of your decision. I took great care in the decision of cost/materials used and would have pulled it all out and went a different route if the logs showed some horrible heat absorption, but they didn't. Some take it one step further and just add thermal barrier. lastly, for me, this only lasted a year as it all came out, procharger went in but during the time it was in, it worked great and as intended.
Lastly, on an LS6 setup, it doesnt provide 'enormous' Hp gains anyways.
What material did you have in mind?
08-03-2010, 10:22 AM
#44
I hear ya...didn't mean to make it sound like yours came from a hardware store, but saying more for me to select components, that there is just so much out there to us 'regular guys', rather than having to rely on the limited stuff at places like home depot. I have made home depot specials in the past that actually work good, but want to make something a little nicer looking on our cars.
And yeah, I'm sure metal will work just fine and it sure does look nice; especially polished up! I haven't done a whole lot of research yet, but even ABS plastic at a thicker schedule seems to insulate quite well. Speaking of, I think I was wrong about using hdpe (high density polyehtylene), due to temperature; Iirc, it's only good to ~200 F and while I doubt it gets that hot, why take a chance.
Actually, now that this is brought up, I'm gonna start looking into this and will update later. I have not given it much thought as to exactly what I'll use, although www.siliconeintakes.com is a good souce for couplings, fwiw. I certainly want to work on the filter side though, as far as a "sealed" barrier and using the oem fresh air ducts, so to speak, modified of course (esp. that thing in front of the radiator shroud that points up...they put a pita rivet there holding it on; don't want to cut it, but damn that grill is a pita to fully remove (for access)!
Procharger, eh? Nice!
btw - in case people weren't aware when selecting: pipe is different than tube, as far as sizing is concerned. For instance, pipe is specified as nominal with a 'schedule' (40 being pretty common), so a 4" pipe is 4.50" od, 3 1/2" is 4" od and 3" is 3 1/2" od, etc. and the schedule # is the wall thickness and varies...higher the number, the thicker......Tube is measured in actual OD and wall thickness, so a 3" tube is 3.00" od. I'm sure many people are aware of this, but I mention in case somebody's not and wonders why a particular pipe is so much bigger than you think.
And yeah, I'm sure metal will work just fine and it sure does look nice; especially polished up! I haven't done a whole lot of research yet, but even ABS plastic at a thicker schedule seems to insulate quite well. Speaking of, I think I was wrong about using hdpe (high density polyehtylene), due to temperature; Iirc, it's only good to ~200 F and while I doubt it gets that hot, why take a chance.
Actually, now that this is brought up, I'm gonna start looking into this and will update later. I have not given it much thought as to exactly what I'll use, although www.siliconeintakes.com is a good souce for couplings, fwiw. I certainly want to work on the filter side though, as far as a "sealed" barrier and using the oem fresh air ducts, so to speak, modified of course (esp. that thing in front of the radiator shroud that points up...they put a pita rivet there holding it on; don't want to cut it, but damn that grill is a pita to fully remove (for access)!
Procharger, eh? Nice!
btw - in case people weren't aware when selecting: pipe is different than tube, as far as sizing is concerned. For instance, pipe is specified as nominal with a 'schedule' (40 being pretty common), so a 4" pipe is 4.50" od, 3 1/2" is 4" od and 3" is 3 1/2" od, etc. and the schedule # is the wall thickness and varies...higher the number, the thicker......Tube is measured in actual OD and wall thickness, so a 3" tube is 3.00" od. I'm sure many people are aware of this, but I mention in case somebody's not and wonders why a particular pipe is so much bigger than you think.
08-03-2010, 11:12 AM
#45
08-04-2010, 06:55 PM
#46
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I'm not going to read all that jargon. My IAT's stayed below factory temperature when I made the intake.
Before intake:
After Intake:
The IAT's never went above factory airbox numbers and the power went up 13whp.
Before intake:
After Intake:
The IAT's never went above factory airbox numbers and the power went up 13whp.
08-05-2010, 09:21 AM
#47
before and after.. with LT headers of course.
Not sure what else AdamatPLSX had done to the car.
Dont expect 10+ rwhp numbers on an otherwise stock car, stock manifolds etc and only doing the intake.
On a bone stock car, after the tune only, it took 92mm Fast intake, ported 90mm LS2 throttle and the CAI to achieve a 13rwhp gain. However, the fast intake did wonders lifting the tq curve under the area (some places up over 18rwtq) 5000rpm and up.
Not sure what else AdamatPLSX had done to the car.
Dont expect 10+ rwhp numbers on an otherwise stock car, stock manifolds etc and only doing the intake.
On a bone stock car, after the tune only, it took 92mm Fast intake, ported 90mm LS2 throttle and the CAI to achieve a 13rwhp gain. However, the fast intake did wonders lifting the tq curve under the area (some places up over 18rwtq) 5000rpm and up.
Last edited by vmapper; 08-05-2010 at 09:36 AM.
