Need Rotors Suggestions???
12-09-2010, 06:52 PM
#21
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I'm in the market for rotors as well. Will the stoptechs hold up to track use and an aggressive pad? GM parts computer says there is two different ones. An OEM and AcDelco. About $100 difference between them. I'd like to know what Luke's prices are..."
12-09-2010, 08:29 PM
#22
There is only a certain time they are able to be turned, if you catch them early enough you can. But if you run them all the up to the end then it's to late. The rotors have limits on them and the V's are already really close to the minimum required to turn them. So if you put it off and just drive on them that extra couple months it's to late. I barely caught them in time. When I have to replace them I'll probably go with those stop techs too.
12-09-2010, 09:58 PM
#23
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IMO turning rotors is a waste of time and money. I've been through lots and lots of pad and rotor changes over the past 10 years doing dozens of track events in 3 different vehicles. In that time I've turned 1 pair of rotors because my method described below wasn't enough to fix them after I ruined them at a track event. The brake shops and brake manufacturers love to have you turn your rotors, because it's cutting away perfectly good material, which means you'll have to pay them for new rotors that much sooner. Do yourself a favor and go buy some one of these 3M kits for your drill (the link is for the 2" version, I think I have the 3" ones). Remove the rotors and scuff the wear surfaces with the Roloc disk - any of the grades will work, you just want to scuff the old pad deposits off. You should be able to see a swirly scuff pattern on the rotor faces when you're done. This should take you all of about 30sec, if that, for each face of the rotor. Clean the rotors with some brake-kleen stuff and put them back on the car, making sure you don't get your greasy fingerprints all over the rotor faces. Then follow the bed-in procedures for your new pads.
(If the pads didn't come with bed-in instructions, then a good basic method is to put a little mileage on them - say 100mi, regular street driving, avoiding any heavy stops. That initial mileage will start to lay down the layer of pad material on the rotors. Then, go find a road where you can do a number of back-to-back almost stops from ~30mph down to ~5mph - do 4 or 5 of those to get some heat in the pads and rotors. Then do a number of ~60mph to ~5mph stops until you feel the pads start to fade. If they're cheap street pads (which they are if you only spent $100) it shouldn't take too long to get to that point. Then go drive at highway speed for 10 or 15min to get them back down to normal temps. Avoid braking if at all possible during that time. Done.)
what do you guys think about these... the price is right and i like the black finish
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...5&autoModClar=
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...5&autoModClar=
12-09-2010, 10:25 PM
#24
I got those, they have 2 different kinds, one is the basic rotor, the other is premium. I bought the premium slotted rotors from their website, they are made by DRT. Really nice rotors! No rust on them yet, they stop just like stock and are certainly better looking.
12-10-2010, 10:22 PM
#25
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Did you do anything to the rotors on the car when you put the new pads on? If the brakes made the car shake with the old pads, and you didn't do anything but slap new pads on there, then the car is still going to shake; it won't magically fix itself. There are almost certainly still uneven pad deposits from the old pads, and the new pads aren't going to bed in properly. (Uneven pad deposits are most likely the cause of your high speed shakes when braking.)
IMO turning rotors is a waste of time and money. I've been through lots and lots of pad and rotor changes over the past 10 years doing dozens of track events in 3 different vehicles. In that time I've turned 1 pair of rotors because my method described below wasn't enough to fix them after I ruined them at a track event. The brake shops and brake manufacturers love to have you turn your rotors, because it's cutting away perfectly good material, which means you'll have to pay them for new rotors that much sooner. Do yourself a favor and go buy some one of these 3M kits for your drill (the link is for the 2" version, I think I have the 3" ones). Remove the rotors and scuff the wear surfaces with the Roloc disk - any of the grades will work, you just want to scuff the old pad deposits off. You should be able to see a swirly scuff pattern on the rotor faces when you're done. This should take you all of about 30sec, if that, for each face of the rotor. Clean the rotors with some brake-kleen stuff and put them back on the car, making sure you don't get your greasy fingerprints all over the rotor faces. Then follow the bed-in procedures for your new pads.
(If the pads didn't come with bed-in instructions, then a good basic method is to put a little mileage on them - say 100mi, regular street driving, avoiding any heavy stops. That initial mileage will start to lay down the layer of pad material on the rotors. Then, go find a road where you can do a number of back-to-back almost stops from ~30mph down to ~5mph - do 4 or 5 of those to get some heat in the pads and rotors. Then do a number of ~60mph to ~5mph stops until you feel the pads start to fade. If they're cheap street pads (which they are if you only spent $100) it shouldn't take too long to get to that point. Then go drive at highway speed for 10 or 15min to get them back down to normal temps. Avoid braking if at all possible during that time. Done.)
The Centric rotors seem to be good bang for the buck. It's hard to say if they're as good as the OEM Brembos (unless one of us has some way to figure out the cast iron composition), but they're certainly waaaaay better than the cheap-*** rotors that are out there on the market. (The ones on Ebay that are $150 for a set of 4 rotors and pads or some ridiculously low price like that.)
IMO turning rotors is a waste of time and money. I've been through lots and lots of pad and rotor changes over the past 10 years doing dozens of track events in 3 different vehicles. In that time I've turned 1 pair of rotors because my method described below wasn't enough to fix them after I ruined them at a track event. The brake shops and brake manufacturers love to have you turn your rotors, because it's cutting away perfectly good material, which means you'll have to pay them for new rotors that much sooner. Do yourself a favor and go buy some one of these 3M kits for your drill (the link is for the 2" version, I think I have the 3" ones). Remove the rotors and scuff the wear surfaces with the Roloc disk - any of the grades will work, you just want to scuff the old pad deposits off. You should be able to see a swirly scuff pattern on the rotor faces when you're done. This should take you all of about 30sec, if that, for each face of the rotor. Clean the rotors with some brake-kleen stuff and put them back on the car, making sure you don't get your greasy fingerprints all over the rotor faces. Then follow the bed-in procedures for your new pads.
(If the pads didn't come with bed-in instructions, then a good basic method is to put a little mileage on them - say 100mi, regular street driving, avoiding any heavy stops. That initial mileage will start to lay down the layer of pad material on the rotors. Then, go find a road where you can do a number of back-to-back almost stops from ~30mph down to ~5mph - do 4 or 5 of those to get some heat in the pads and rotors. Then do a number of ~60mph to ~5mph stops until you feel the pads start to fade. If they're cheap street pads (which they are if you only spent $100) it shouldn't take too long to get to that point. Then go drive at highway speed for 10 or 15min to get them back down to normal temps. Avoid braking if at all possible during that time. Done.)
The Centric rotors seem to be good bang for the buck. It's hard to say if they're as good as the OEM Brembos (unless one of us has some way to figure out the cast iron composition), but they're certainly waaaaay better than the cheap-*** rotors that are out there on the market. (The ones on Ebay that are $150 for a set of 4 rotors and pads or some ridiculously low price like that.)
12-12-2010, 05:29 PM
#27
And yes, i just went with slotted, i actually believe i was one if, not the first to pick these rotors up from Maperformance back in april.
